DIY Rear Lip Spoiler... A tool is required anyone have it or willing to split it?
#1
Racer
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DIY Rear Lip Spoiler... A tool is required anyone have it or willing to split it?
I got my Lip Spoiler in today from Temecula Acura. In the instructions, it says you have to have a Spoiler Template Tool, "T/N 07aag-tl2a120". I've found it on line for like 118 bucks.
Three questions...
a) Does anyone have the tool, and would be willing to let me rent it?
b) Would anyone be interested in sharing the tool thus reducing the cost?
c) Would anyone like me to buy it and then 'rent' it from me for a couple bucks?
It's not too dificult to put on once you have this template tool. You can save yourself a good bit of money not having the dealer install it for you.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
Three questions...
a) Does anyone have the tool, and would be willing to let me rent it?
b) Would anyone be interested in sharing the tool thus reducing the cost?
c) Would anyone like me to buy it and then 'rent' it from me for a couple bucks?
It's not too dificult to put on once you have this template tool. You can save yourself a good bit of money not having the dealer install it for you.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
#3
Racer
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http://www.acurapartssuperstore.com/...unkSpoiler.pdf
see #2, it shows the tool, boyfriend thinks if someone had one then it could probably be duplicated, but there is nothing showing the dimensions for the tool.
see #2, it shows the tool, boyfriend thinks if someone had one then it could probably be duplicated, but there is nothing showing the dimensions for the tool.
#4
Burning Brakes
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Funny you bring the tool up. I bought the full Aero kit and decklid spoiler with the intention of putting it all on myself. Pulled the spoiler out of the box and saw the same thing, that I needed a special tool. I went back to the dealer with it and spoke to my salesman and he convinced one of the techs to install it for me for lunch. I ended up giving him $20.
I did install the rest of the kit myself luckily.
My suggestion, ask your salesman to bribe a tech. It seriously took them 5 mins.
I did install the rest of the kit myself luckily.
My suggestion, ask your salesman to bribe a tech. It seriously took them 5 mins.
Last edited by DerwoodEE; 02-11-2009 at 08:42 PM.
#5
Racer
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hmm, i do have to take the car in for a couple of minor little things (cup holder cover, drivers side seat heater switch), maybe my salesman can help me out.....
#6
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Racer
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Somehow I dont think they are going to go for that. Called them today, they want like over 160 to install it. I told him I could buy the tool and have my boyfriend install it cheaper than that.
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#10
Burning Brakes
Looks like its just marking and drilling 4 holes, cleaning the surface, peeling off the tape and slap it on. A 10 min job tops.
Are the pegs really necessary for installation? why not just put some more 3M double sided tape on the flat bosses the pegs slip into and just tape the lip to the trunk, no need to drill into the trunk lid. Isn't the way all the ebay generic trunk lips are mounted?
Are the pegs really necessary for installation? why not just put some more 3M double sided tape on the flat bosses the pegs slip into and just tape the lip to the trunk, no need to drill into the trunk lid. Isn't the way all the ebay generic trunk lips are mounted?
#11
Racer
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yeah, the bf said that is pretty much all it is. mark the holes with the template tool, drill the holes, clean the holes, use touch up paint to cover the bare metal inside the holes, clean off the truck lid, and peel off the tape and slap it on. He is really considering buying the tool and then just selling it afterward. Not sure I am keen on the idea of just using tape though.
#13
Talk to your salesman, and even the service manager and ask if you could borrow, or if nothing else, rent it. I can't imaging them not accomidating. Funny how different OEM's are, a stock spoiler for a Mazda 3 comes with a paper template on where to mount the holes. I used the paper template and it worked perfectly. Perhaps you could trace the template at the dealer if they would not let you borrow it.
One other suggestion, when drilling, use a brand new bit - make sure you dimple the hole first. Wrap about 2 feet of tape about 3/4 of an inch above the point of the bit. This way, when the bit bites into the last part of the metal, the driver does not quickly get sucked down the hole causing your chuck to screw up the surface. After using the tounch up paint, put silicone around the hole as you insert the bolts, this will keep a water tight seal.
It is an queasy feeling drilling into the back of your brand new $30K car.
One other suggestion, when drilling, use a brand new bit - make sure you dimple the hole first. Wrap about 2 feet of tape about 3/4 of an inch above the point of the bit. This way, when the bit bites into the last part of the metal, the driver does not quickly get sucked down the hole causing your chuck to screw up the surface. After using the tounch up paint, put silicone around the hole as you insert the bolts, this will keep a water tight seal.
It is an queasy feeling drilling into the back of your brand new $30K car.
#14
The tool is to remove the torsion bar spring. If you were clever and brave, it might be possible to remove it without the tool. Installing the new one is more difficult however. With the tool it is indeed very fast. "insert tool, push down, and boiiinng it's off" Its a long shot, but a body shop might have the tool?
#15
Drifting
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I wrecked myself messing with those stupid torsion bars on my mom's old *crappy American sedan that I forget, Taurus maybe*. I was using a crowbar and a big screw driver to try and manipulate the springs. I ended up getting my hand smashed between the crowbar and the bottom of the trunk lid. It left me with a big chunk of flesh dangling off the side of my hand. Those springs are strong, be careful.
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i just looked at the directions again, there are 2 tools, one is the template tool (comes with a pin, used to make the dimples for the hole positions), and then there is the trunk spring tool, used to remove the original spring. BF isnt convinced the spring even needs to be replaced. 09TSXMN, thanks for the advice about the tape on the drill bit!
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#18
Drifting
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The trunk lid will feel very heavy if you add the spoiler and don't change the spring. Watch your head any time your digging around the trunk if you go that route. It will close with much more force like that.
#19
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looks like I wont have to go that route afterall, have a guy that owns a (great) local bodyshop that will do it for less. He does great work, he makes my boyfriend's dad happy, and he is really picky when it comes to his cars. :-)
#20
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That's good to hear! I'm still deciding if I should get the lip or the wing spoiler. I've bought from Temecula Acura's ebay site before and they've been great. I was thinking about buying the part from them, but I'm too chicken to install it if it involves drilling holes.
#22
SeeYou2Crew #2
I'm still deciding if I should get the lip or the wing spoiler
#23
I'm glad you like your lip spoiler. I purchased mine from the same dealer you did via ebay and forked out $200 for installing at local Acura dealer. I paid a whopping $485 (285 for spoiler + 200 for install) but when I didn't have it, I constantly had this in my head so now all good .
#25
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Well you are talking about the dealerships that have 125minimum charge for ANYTHING and an additional $185.00 charge to run the codes on your CEL.
Yea seriously the dealership where I live wanted to charge me $185.00 to read my CEL.
Yea seriously the dealership where I live wanted to charge me $185.00 to read my CEL.
#26
Safety Car
iTrader: (2)
i just installed one on my friend's 2g tsx without drilling.
no drilling necessary at all if you use extra 3M molding tapes where taps are drilling onto. with extra tapes, its on the trunk rock solid.
also before the install and taking a closer look at the spoiler, i thought the lip was bit heavy but its damn light and won't have any problems with the current trunk spring. so replacing the trunk spring isn't really necessary either unless if your going to add dynamat in the future.
so...
no drilling required
no stronger spring required
just go buy some 3M molding tape and you'll be done with the install in less than 30mins.
no drilling necessary at all if you use extra 3M molding tapes where taps are drilling onto. with extra tapes, its on the trunk rock solid.
also before the install and taking a closer look at the spoiler, i thought the lip was bit heavy but its damn light and won't have any problems with the current trunk spring. so replacing the trunk spring isn't really necessary either unless if your going to add dynamat in the future.
so...
no drilling required
no stronger spring required
just go buy some 3M molding tape and you'll be done with the install in less than 30mins.
#28
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I've held on full bumper lip kits with only tape and screws in the fender wells. Good 3M tape done correctly isn't going anywhere, especially with something as thin and light as a lip spoiler.
#29
here is the link...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PAINT...1%7C240%3A1318
Thx.
Chet
#30
Safety Car
iTrader: (2)
Talkin about 3M tape - I was actually looking for rear spoiler for my TL as well, I checked out ebay and there is one guy selling from Taiwan, painted and shippedfor like 60 buks or so. Does any one have that ? is it worth getting it ? No drilling required and he says that the 3m Adhesive is strong... Let me know if anyone has installed one of these..Do they look just like the ones from Factory?
here is the link...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PAINT...1%7C240%3A1318
Thx.
Chet
here is the link...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PAINT...1%7C240%3A1318
Thx.
Chet
#31
mikl181: what did u buy from AutoZone ?? 3m Tape or the spoiler ?
#33
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Actually he's talking about the spoiler, i believe he posted on tsx club (is this club not allowed to be mentioned here? The forum keeps deleting it... :p)
Last edited by cmasterchoe; 05-04-2009 at 01:20 PM.
#34
Forced Induction
Oh, I have seen those generic lip spoilers on eBay as well, they are not the proper size for all applications, and the material is very soft and flexible, I have installed this on an I30 Infiniti before, I would just get an OEM or knockoff instead of that spoiler.
It is like a M3 knockoff I think.
It is like a M3 knockoff I think.
#35
Cmasterchoe: YEh, this spoiler u have pictured seems like hard rubber... but the ones on Ebay which are painted and shipped, are they also this type of material or is it like fake fiberglass material?
#37
Safety Car
iTrader: (2)
i reread your post and never thought you were talking about the oem replica spoiler. i meant 3m tape btw...
i never post on other threads. i used to when i had 1g tsx two years ago, but not anymore
actually m3 replicas are not that bad if its painted right. flexible. lightweight. easy to install.
i had it on my tsx for years without any problems. but they don't look good on 2g tsx or 3g tl
Oh, I have seen those generic lip spoilers on eBay as well, they are not the proper size for all applications, and the material is very soft and flexible, I have installed this on an I30 Infiniti before, I would just get an OEM or knockoff instead of that spoiler.
It is like a M3 knockoff I think.
It is like a M3 knockoff I think.
i had it on my tsx for years without any problems. but they don't look good on 2g tsx or 3g tl
#38
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@minkl the only reason I assumed so was because the subject post at tsx club was "look what came in the mail today, only for 99 cents!" ahaha, i need to buy a "jump to conclusions" mat.