Question on 225 vs. 235 tires on 18s
#1
Question on 225 vs. 235 tires on 18s
I've seen the posts and suggestions on this but wanted to get a clear answer for my specific situation if it anyone can lend some personal experience.
RIMS = Acura TL A-spec 18x8J +45 offset
SUSPENSION = H&R Sports -1.75"F/-1.5"R on Koni Yellows
CAMBER = Yes Fronts are approx. -.75 to -.1 degree and rear approx. -.25 to -.5
PASSENGERS = 4 (excluding driver)
1) The reason I need clarification is I do transport people and I drive to Tahoe (mountains) quite often. There is a good mix of "rubs" and "no rubs." but about 99% do not consider the passenger and road conditions part. 225 is definitely safer for the rubbing, but the speedo will be 1.5% off and rim protection will be gone. 235 is definitely more pothole safe and closer to stock speedo at .2% but can rub. What do you guys believe is the best tire for my setup and passenger loading?
Hopefully your replies can help me and other members.
As for the rims, they are coming no matter what so I figure I will have to trip fender tabs, possibly roll fenders.
2) One other idea I thought of that may save me the fender work is having a reputable shop shave my OEMs to get the +48 offset that could fit my 235s... however I don't know if there is enough material to shave... and if that is a good idea since shaving could introduce bad mating between rim and the hub and prove to be disastrous after compromising the interface/structure between the rim and hub.
Thanks for your help guys as always.
RIMS = Acura TL A-spec 18x8J +45 offset
SUSPENSION = H&R Sports -1.75"F/-1.5"R on Koni Yellows
CAMBER = Yes Fronts are approx. -.75 to -.1 degree and rear approx. -.25 to -.5
PASSENGERS = 4 (excluding driver)
1) The reason I need clarification is I do transport people and I drive to Tahoe (mountains) quite often. There is a good mix of "rubs" and "no rubs." but about 99% do not consider the passenger and road conditions part. 225 is definitely safer for the rubbing, but the speedo will be 1.5% off and rim protection will be gone. 235 is definitely more pothole safe and closer to stock speedo at .2% but can rub. What do you guys believe is the best tire for my setup and passenger loading?
Hopefully your replies can help me and other members.
As for the rims, they are coming no matter what so I figure I will have to trip fender tabs, possibly roll fenders.
2) One other idea I thought of that may save me the fender work is having a reputable shop shave my OEMs to get the +48 offset that could fit my 235s... however I don't know if there is enough material to shave... and if that is a good idea since shaving could introduce bad mating between rim and the hub and prove to be disastrous after compromising the interface/structure between the rim and hub.
Thanks for your help guys as always.
#2
Thanks philly help. Looks like I'm gonna shoot 225/40R18 FTW (or epic fail... we shall see). I will try to give feedback on first hand experience in my situation and post it back up here hopefully it can help everyone else. Meanwhile here is data I have already taken from the websites the forum has referenced me to. Hope it paints a picture.
#6
Haha question is now... will costco do it or will I have to break ties FOREVER!! haha...
They do put on 225/45R17 for my stock Type-S rims since I wanted Michelin Pilot Sport A/S (they don't make it in 215/50R17 for this tire). I wonder since if they go up on size, if they will go down 1 size for the 18 from 235/40R18 to 225/40R18. I just like their lifetime warrant and lifetime rotation+balancing.
They do put on 225/45R17 for my stock Type-S rims since I wanted Michelin Pilot Sport A/S (they don't make it in 215/50R17 for this tire). I wonder since if they go up on size, if they will go down 1 size for the 18 from 235/40R18 to 225/40R18. I just like their lifetime warrant and lifetime rotation+balancing.
#7
Originally Posted by BiggyMcWang
Haha question is now... will costco do it or will I have to break ties FOREVER!! haha...
They do put on 225/45R17 for my stock Type-S rims since I wanted Michelin Pilot Sport A/S (they don't make it in 215/50R17 for this tire). I wonder since if they go up on size, if they will go down 1 size for the 18 from 235/40R18 to 225/40R18. I just like their lifetime warrant and lifetime rotation+balancing.
They do put on 225/45R17 for my stock Type-S rims since I wanted Michelin Pilot Sport A/S (they don't make it in 215/50R17 for this tire). I wonder since if they go up on size, if they will go down 1 size for the 18 from 235/40R18 to 225/40R18. I just like their lifetime warrant and lifetime rotation+balancing.
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#8
Originally Posted by JPTL-S
Unfortunately Costco will not install tires on aftermarket wheels. They only install tires on OEM setups.
#11
Originally Posted by MurdaZ
actually, i went to install my rims, put 18x8 45 offset, installed 235/40/18 tires, and it barely rubs on hard turns on the rear....mainly went for 235 to get more of a cushion..
#12
Originally Posted by princelybug
Actually, 235/40/18 is the size that Acura uses for the 18"x8" A-Spec wheels, so you should be good to go with that size, even with a drop of 1.75"f/1.5"r.
Haha man...
#13
If you can get 235-40-18 tires to not rub, go for them. The extra 20mm (vs 215-50-17) is good for about a 4% increase in handling just based on the wider tire patch. That is the primary reason why the third gens handle better than the second gens (stock) - wider tires.
#14
Originally Posted by paul_huryk
If you can get 235-40-18 tires to not rub, go for them. The extra 20mm (vs 215-50-17) is good for about a 4% increase in handling just based on the wider tire patch. That is the primary reason why the third gens handle better than the second gens (stock) - wider tires.
#15
Originally Posted by paul_huryk
If you can get 235-40-18 tires to not rub, go for them. The extra 20mm (vs 215-50-17) is good for about a 4% increase in handling just based on the wider tire patch. That is the primary reason why the third gens handle better than the second gens (stock) - wider tires.
#16
Costco agreed without hesitation to install my tires. Now all I gotta do is try to ask them to not scratch my rims. They ordered my tires (shipping from Reno, NV) and will have them by Thursday next week. I guess they thought ditching the sale would hurt them royally ($242.99 per tire). I didn't wanna leave them for their lifetime warranty/rotation/balancing (tire life time ).
Rims came today too... .... pics below.
I checked the wheel gap in the back i was only able to get about 2cm (roughly) clearance between outer wall of my 225/45R17 tire and the metal fender. I guess this Tuesday I will just go ahead and cut about 1/2 the amount of the fender off ahead of time just in case. Thanks guys for all ur help and damn I can't wait to get them on.
Rims came today too... .... pics below.
I checked the wheel gap in the back i was only able to get about 2cm (roughly) clearance between outer wall of my 225/45R17 tire and the metal fender. I guess this Tuesday I will just go ahead and cut about 1/2 the amount of the fender off ahead of time just in case. Thanks guys for all ur help and damn I can't wait to get them on.
#18
I decided to go with 225/40 to see if I could avoid the rub. If that passes I will try to load my car and head on up from there. As it is right now, the gap don't look big enough in the back. I'm not sure what my alignment/camber is now since I got rear ended a whiles back.
#20
Originally Posted by Vietnastee
I use to rub with a 215 tire in the rear with hard right turns or fast U-turns. But it's your call David.
#23
Originally Posted by BiggyMcWang
I checked the wheel gap in the back i was only able to get about 2cm (roughly) clearance between outer wall of my 225/45R17 tire and the metal fender. I guess this Tuesday I will just go ahead and cut about 1/2 the amount of the fender off ahead of time just in case.
#26
^^ lol yea, thats a hefty price, hopefully u got some top notch tires for that price...
and my drop is like strodda as well, and went u add load or even jump up and down on the door frame, u can see the tuck, its perfect
and my drop is like strodda as well, and went u add load or even jump up and down on the door frame, u can see the tuck, its perfect
#29
well put the camber kits today, and adjusted em by eye, they rub on hard dips, so most likely will need to do some rolling, hopefulyl cutting tabs alone can solve it...but thats all after the alignment
#30
You are on 235/40 right? I'll let you all know once I get my 225/40s installed. I also got my car aligned yesterday with a printout. Will post up numbers later to go along with that.
#31
Originally Posted by MurdaZ
^^ lol yea, thats a hefty price, hopefully u got some top notch tires for that price...
and my drop is like strodda as well, and went u add load or even jump up and down on the door frame, u can see the tuck, its perfect
and my drop is like strodda as well, and went u add load or even jump up and down on the door frame, u can see the tuck, its perfect
Originally Posted by ACTL03
where did u buy the aspec wheels and how much were they?
#32
Originally Posted by MurdaZ
^^ lol yea, thats a hefty price, hopefully u got some top notch tires for that price...
and my drop is like strodda as well, and went u add load or even jump up and down on the door frame, u can see the tuck, its perfect
and my drop is like strodda as well, and went u add load or even jump up and down on the door frame, u can see the tuck, its perfect
#34
Mega rubbing in the passenger rear. Driver side was almost non-existent. This is with over 150lb's since I had all 4 stocks + tires in the back. I think I know why to...
Camber: (Driver Side / Passenger Side)
FRONT: -0.8 / -1.6 (Specified range = -1.2 to 0.8)
REAR: -0.8 / -0.4 (Specified range = -2.0 to 0.0)
I plan to adjust rear camber on both probably to -1.0 degrees to fix the problem if it won't sacrifice the inner tire so much. It's amazing how the difference between -.8 and -.4 is HUGE on the rubbing. Also, I will dremel off about 1/4" off of the fender tab (metal). I cannot cut too much off since I noticed the metal of the wheel well is stamp pressed to the fender itself.. cutting that may jeopardize the welding/stamping. Right now driving with no load and I stiffened springs so no problems.
Pics:
DRIVER RUBBING (on the wall almost nothing)
PASSENGER RUBBING (pretty bad - when loaded with ~180lbs in back rubs on accel, large bumps, hard turns)
Camber: (Driver Side / Passenger Side)
FRONT: -0.8 / -1.6 (Specified range = -1.2 to 0.8)
REAR: -0.8 / -0.4 (Specified range = -2.0 to 0.0)
I plan to adjust rear camber on both probably to -1.0 degrees to fix the problem if it won't sacrifice the inner tire so much. It's amazing how the difference between -.8 and -.4 is HUGE on the rubbing. Also, I will dremel off about 1/4" off of the fender tab (metal). I cannot cut too much off since I noticed the metal of the wheel well is stamp pressed to the fender itself.. cutting that may jeopardize the welding/stamping. Right now driving with no load and I stiffened springs so no problems.
Pics:
DRIVER RUBBING (on the wall almost nothing)
PASSENGER RUBBING (pretty bad - when loaded with ~180lbs in back rubs on accel, large bumps, hard turns)
#35
Is it rubbing on the metal or the plastic bumper tab in the rear, the tab is usually the first to rub high offset or low? Look there first. 2nd dont cut the metal. Roll it. Get a hair dryer or heat gun and a cheap wooden bat from walmart and roll it.
#36
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Is it rubbing on the metal or the plastic bumper tab in the rear, the tab is usually the first to rub high offset or low? Look there first. 2nd dont cut the metal. Roll it. Get a hair dryer or heat gun and a cheap wooden bat from walmart and roll it.
#37
im basically in the same boat as u now, same situation on where it rubs n what now, i do wanna cut the metal mainly cause its easier to do, but thinkin it over again, and it may lead to rust in the future...
fsttyms1, even with a hair dryer, wouldnt it take forever to do? if i use a heat gun, how hot is too hot to cause the paint to cause defects be4 rolling...?
fsttyms1, even with a hair dryer, wouldnt it take forever to do? if i use a heat gun, how hot is too hot to cause the paint to cause defects be4 rolling...?
#38
I am gonna be cutting tabs first since I found those traces on my tire not to be damage but actually shavings of polyurethane from the rear bumper part of the fenders. I will trim those since it doesn't risk rust. After that I will load 3 150lb people in the back and see if metal clears. If not I will do the final step of fender rolling.
Metal has been touched once but I bet it was before I settled into my camber after being raised for wheel installation. No one guarantees workmanship for fender rolling since it's a mixed bag so I will hold out until I have to.
Other than that I love my car as is.
Metal has been touched once but I bet it was before I settled into my camber after being raised for wheel installation. No one guarantees workmanship for fender rolling since it's a mixed bag so I will hold out until I have to.
Other than that I love my car as is.
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