woah, how much u spend on that setup skirmich? shit is nice. n yea hairy monkey. imma leave the suspension for last...best for last thanks for the input guys.

 

I spend:

Front Rotors EBC 3GD = 300 bucks (Bear in mind they were a New Design back then)
Rear Rotors EBC 3GD = 225 (Same)
Front Pads EBC Yellow Stuff = 75 Bucks
Rear Pads EBC Yellow Stuff = 60 Bucks
Goodridge SS Lines (Lifetime Warranty) = 35-40 bucks (Cant remember)
Brake Fluid cheap Prestone DOT 3 = 15 bucks

All in all I spend around: 715 bucks for what you saw in that pic.
Rotors have come down in price since then tough (They were Sold Individually back then, They are now sold in pairs).
You can get it now for around 547 bucks today..

What is missing?

1.- Replaced the EBC 3GD fronts in favor of the DBA XS4000 Front Rotors < Bought on SALE at 99 each! 200 bucks in Total.


2.- Replaced the 6 month old worn out pads Yellow Stuffs in favor of EBC RED STUFFS (Reds last longer and have shit tons lens dust while having somewhat the same stopping power).. < Another 135 bucks full set.

3.- Replaced the OEM POS 1 Pot caliper in favor of Legend Calipers! (Painted Glossy Black) < 80 bucks both!


4.- Flushed all Brake cheapo Prestone Fluid in favor of MOTUL DOT 5.1 < Around 20 bucks for 2 liters..

I was planning on doing the RL 4 Pot mod but I have been short on cash lately and that's around a 600 bucks mod..

Hope that Helps!

 

Woah, u took ur time legit. and what is the difference between normal rotors and those ventilated ones with the holes? im sure theres a performance type of explanation but im not sure :/

 

^^ It has its cons and pros..

PROS:
1.- Better cooling = Less brake Fade and less prone to warping
2.- Better materials = Less prone to warping and wear
3.- LOOKS!!!! Look EPIC on any wheel...

CONs:
1.- Expensive $$$
2.- Less contact material (Holes and Dimples never contact the brake pad) Thus slightly less brake force than a plain rotor at max pressure.
3.- Still heavy compared to 2 Piece Rotors

I'm pretty satisfied with my current setup.. It brakes better than the OEM Setup will ever do and Brake Fade is almost none existent when hitting the back roads at Grand Tour speeds.. The thing is brake fade is a more serious threat than less contact area that is why this setup kills the OEM even when comparing to Plain Rotors, It stays cooler for longer in city = More Initial bite and stopping power at all times.

 

I paid $720 total for my setup back in June of 2010, the only difference being that I got the Redstuff pads - and that included installation of everything.

The addition of the Legend calipers completes that package Skirmich. Nice job!

 

woah, thanks for tht. i ddnt know the legit difference im really excited for my car project. i already got a couple things lined up that ive installed or am waiting to install. but little by little im getting to what i want my car to be.

 

that reminds me, between tein s tech and tein h tech, which are better lowering springs?

 

s-tech

 

OP you have been given some really good advice, you will get the most for your time and money if you get all the pieces together to complete a project at one time. If you keep an eye on the BM and Craigslist you should be able to find a good set for springs for $100 to $175. I got my Eibach's for $100 and the had less then 1K on them. I'm partial to Bilstein shocks, but them and Koni are the only shocks that are rebuildable and repairable.

 

yea ik ^^^ this forum is my favorite for this reason. the people are friendly and very helpful.you actually learn a lot. but ye, imma end up leaving the suspension for last. i got bigger priorities such as my motor mounts :/ and craigslist actually has good listings on parts? ill check it out

 

OP ygpm in regards to eibach springs.

 

Whats your guys's opinions on Function and Form type 1 coilover setup? I plan on putting them on next spring.

 

There's a lot of negative feedback on the forums about them. If you're looking for something like this I would recommend the TEIN Street Basis coilovers or the XLR8 ISC coilovers.

 

Thanks for the info, Looks like I might have to go with the TEIN Street Basis coilover setup. I want to slam my TL

 

If that's the case, teins won't help you.

 

Do the Teins not go that low or something?

 

Yeah, even when maxed out they're not that low

 

Ahhh, How low would you say they go when maxed out?

 

Just to a point where there's no wheel gap

 

Not even a finger width between tire and fender?

 

I don't think so. Iirc 02actclean barely tucked tire back when he was static, and that was after he messed with the pre load. Look through his older threads from when he was static. Best thing to do is look for other coilovers. Don't get k sport though, the price doesn't equal it's quality at all.

 

I just read something about Megan coil overs? Whats your opinion on those?

 

the minimum level i have on the ff1s is just above the wheel. maybe the preload is off? it's too cold to pull them off and measure them. they don't ride very well though but it looks good to me.

 

^ They ride like frozen crap*
Fixed that for you.. FF1's ride is cheap car like toyota corolla or honda fit...
In the words of Jeremy Clarkson: "Totally Unciviliced".

For the option of lowering or raise the car losing the ride is not worth it.. I once tought the TL-S suspension was hard? Oh boy I was wrong! FF1's feel so hard it almost feels like there isnt a spring at all.