CraigMB

Just under 2 years ago the original suspension on my 2001 finally wore out. The car appeared lowered without actually being lowered. I purchased new coils and shocks at Acura Parts Warehouse and had a local shop do the install. The new parts raised the car, but stability is significantly reduced. I have to slow down for highway curves and really grip the wheel when driving near a semi. A strong wind blew me into the next lane last week. The original OEMs were never like that, so I assumed replacing the parts would restore the original appearance and performance. APW claims the parts are OEM, but they do not have the specs handy to confirm a match.

If I had to guess, and it is a guess, I would say the springs are way too long and center of gravity is now higher than normal making the car handle like a giraffe. Front: from wheel center to wheel well lip is 16". Rear: center to lip is 15.5 (I assume a full tank of gas accounts for the difference).

I have searched for OEM specs to confirm my hunch but no luck. OEM coil springs are discontinued with no stock anywhere, which I would expect after 22 years. I might need to install an aftermarket solution, but am worried about how long those will last since I have no exposure to the brands.

So, Is there something that I can check to save the current install? Or, should I not waste time and identify an aftermarket solution?

- Daily driver
- Safety and control is #1
- Height can be whatever, just not so low that I would be plowing lake effect snow in the Winter or bottom out on a county road
- Other than groceries, the backseat and trunk are seldom used, so the only added weight is myself and an occasional passenger
- I have to drive on a blend of rough county roads and interstate

Any guidance will be appreciated, especially when Winter returns.

Edward'TLS

Pictures showing how high your car now sits would help.

CraigMB

Side

Front

Rear

zeta

iTrader: (1)

I see the OEM front 51401-S0K-A01; Spring, Front (Showa); Coil Spring on APW's website as being in stock.
This spring appears to be interchangeable between the two front sides.

I see the OEM front passenger side (right side) 51605-S0K-A04; Shock Absorber Unit, Right Front,
as well as the OEM front driver side (left side) 51606-S0K-A03; Shock Absorber Unit, Left Front.

I see the OEM rear 52441-S0K-A01, Spring, Rear (Showa); Coil Spring on APW's website as being in stock.
This spring appears to be interchangeable between the two rear sides.

I see the OEM rear 52611-S0K-A02; Shock Absorber Unit, Rear
This shock appears to be interchangeable between the two rear sides.

[QUOTE=CraigMB;16896667]OEM coil springs are discontinued with no stock anywhere, which I would expect after 22 years. I might need to install an aftermarket solution, but am worried about how long those will last since I have no exposure to the brands.


Do you mean 'OEM coil springs are discontinued...' made 22 years ago?
Otherwise, what APW shipped you is considered OEM?

One would think that these springs & shocks would have the same specs. as the units used 22 years ago; however, like you mention the specs. for them back then are not available for comparison now to what you received.

Have you re-checked your APW order invoice to see if all the part #'s above 'jive' with what you ordered / received?

Just throwing things out there:
Could the local shop, who performed the install, done something wrong?
Like put the rear springs in front and front springs on the rear?
Not sure if that can even be done?

The only thing I can think of is to consider trying front & rear shock / strut & coil spring assemblies, of your choosing, from RockAuto?

However, there is no real sure way to know if you will get that 'original' OEM feeling you remember from 22 years ago.

CraigMB

Checked my receipts and APW. They say OEM. But, without specs it is hard to confirm. Front and rear have different shapes so unless the tech pulled a fast one....

zeta

iTrader: (1)

It may be prudent to revisit the shop and confirm that the springs were, in fact, installed correctly & report back.

DP01TL

Well, my 2001 TL is pretty much at the same point. One of the front struts is leaking, the sway bar end links have play or are flt out broken, the sway bar bushings are compromised and I pretty much need to redo everything.

I ordered up new sway bar end-links and bushings, new tie-rod inner and outers and new Gabriel Ultra ReadyMount struts and shocks. I was looking and all the aftermarket shock/strut manufacturers put the Acura CL/TL and Honda Accord 2.4l in the same application listing. Monroe actually lists a regular high pressure set of struts/shocks and a "special" low-pressure version as well.

In looking up the OEM parts, Acura and Honda list different part numbers for the struts/shocks base dn the model. The first 5 digits are identical, but the last two three-digits sequences are different on each. Does that mean they actually ARE the same shocks/struts, just with different applications?

I am really hoping, if anything, that they are, and if NOT, then they used the Acura CL/TL specs on the shocks/struts and that means the Accord would get a nice upgrade going to the aftermarkets, and not the other way around (ie, they used the crappy Accord specs and it is a downgrade for the Acuras).

I am not too familiar with Acura/Honda and the CL/TL/Accord models to know if there is much of a difference, other than the fact that I know my TL drive way different than a friends Accord of the same year. It was most "supple" and solid feeling and the Accord felt "cheap" in comparision.

CraigMB

I just put on new brakes, found one caliper was sticking, so the unpredictable slop is gone but not quite as tight as my old brain tells me it used to be. I have some doubts on obtaining OEM springs, so I'm going to give KW coilovers a try. Lower, but not extremely. Should be stiffer as well.

DP01TL

Yeah, I did brakes last year... All new caliper/rotors/pads... I also flushed the brake fluid for a full system redo...

I just looked up the procedure for redoing the suspension and noticed that the struts have to come out to do the upper control arms, so I just ordered them up and will replace them when I do the struts... Same with the rear upper arm that has the ball joint, and the front strut rod bushings that bolt to the frame.

My car has 242k miles on it. In checking the suspension out the bushings all seem good, but the front lower drivers side ball joint has a ripped boot, so I got new lower ball joints. I figured that was an indicator to replace ALL the balljoints while I have everything apart. The control arms (outside of the front uppers) are all individually easy to replace with the shocks/struts in place and the rubber seems good and supple still, so I figure redoing the upper arms, the lower balljoints and the rear arms with the balljoints should at least "refresh" it enough to have confidence that I shouldn't have to worry about the suspension once I am done.

The car got new wheels and tires (Vredesteing Quadtrac Pro) within the last few thousand miles, so I figure I was do for an alignmment as well once the rest of the suspension is done.

CraigMB

I did ball joints & control arms when my commute over uneven pavement became too stressful - felt like a crazy carnival ride instead of pved highway

CraigMB

So after running on the new KW suspension for a bit I'm not sure if it was the parts or the original install, but what a world of difference! We took advantage of the lowering option and brought it down as well, which I was a bit worried about in the snow, but this year has been kind. Maybe next year I'll be forced to raise it an inch or so.