DIY Lowering / Dropping Your TL
#41
#42
Btw My friend told me that you have to tighten some of the lugs and bolts by a sertain amount of pounds of pressure. He got a 02 maxima does this imply to our cars too?
suposably its better or something like that? anyone know anything about that?
suposably its better or something like that? anyone know anything about that?
#43
lugs, meaning wheel lug nuts? You should tighten all the lug nuts equally with a final tightening sequence in a star pattern (not clockwise or counter clockwise) to 80 lbs using a torque wrench. Car should be on the ground as well.
#44
Lol no no no, what I ment is when you tighten the suspension back to the car do you need to use a torque wrench to apply different amounts of pressure to different bolts? (does that make sense?)
#46
Just tighten them up about as much as you can using a wrench or ratchet, and then a little more. No need for torque wrench, although as tegkid said Im sure there is specs for each and every nut/bolt. If using air tools I wouldnt whale on the bolts/nuts or anything-I know my 1/2 drive impact torques to well over 200 ft/lbs
#47
Torque Wrench is a free loaner at AutoZone, etc.
I tighten everything I can to torque spec if I've got it. If not, I'll tighten to the 3G spec for the same part.
Some parts are spec'd a little tighter or a little looser than others for a reason.
I tighten everything I can to torque spec if I've got it. If not, I'll tighten to the 3G spec for the same part.
Some parts are spec'd a little tighter or a little looser than others for a reason.
#48
#49
LOL..ok..I was starting to say..
Just tighten them up about as much as you can using a wrench or ratchet, and then a little more. No need for torque wrench, although as tegkid said Im sure there is specs for each and every nut/bolt. If using air tools I wouldnt whale on the bolts/nuts or anything-I know my 1/2 drive impact torques to well over 200 ft/lbs
Just tighten them up about as much as you can using a wrench or ratchet, and then a little more. No need for torque wrench, although as tegkid said Im sure there is specs for each and every nut/bolt. If using air tools I wouldnt whale on the bolts/nuts or anything-I know my 1/2 drive impact torques to well over 200 ft/lbs
#51
Never had any problems...
#53
This is for the 3G Susp. ALMOST identical to the 2G in many areas. If you can't find a 2G manual or scans and worse comes to worst, I'd use this as a guide/approximation:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/torque-spec-shock-assembly-3g-garage-d-091-a-633039/
#54
Thanks to TALizaS3.2. Just did some overdue maintenance on TL. This post helped out with the OEM strut replacement that I've been putting off most of the winter. It took about six hours, but part of that was a mistake on my part. I also did a brake pad upgrade (I hope) to ProStop Ceramic Pads ( PepBoys didn't have EBC in stock), then painted the Calipers. Feels much more sure footed now.
#55
Haven't looked at this in forever, but i'm glad this helped people out, or at least gave them an idea of how it's done. I'm sure there's things i could have done better, but you guys get the point.
#56
just to let you guys know REAR springs in the tl and accord do not need to be compressed with a spring compressor. you can simply just hold the strut standing up and have someone take the 14 off the top. ive done a ton of rear struts on accords when i worked at the honda dealer and thats how we used to do them. theres not enough tension for it to pop up and hit you. when i lower my car ill try makin a video to post up for you guys.
#59
Its not recommended, but you can do all four without a compressor...ask josh..
I did both my rear springs without one.
For the everyday DIY'er I would highly recommend a spring compressor though..
I did both my rear springs without one.
For the everyday DIY'er I would highly recommend a spring compressor though..
#60
I compressed the rear just a little. It took a A LOT less than the front.
Also, I just read the torque specs from the 3G. I torqued the front and rear LCA bolt nut to 60 lbs/ft. Is that too much over spec? The 3G says it should be 47lbs/ft.
Also, I just read the torque specs from the 3G. I torqued the front and rear LCA bolt nut to 60 lbs/ft. Is that too much over spec? The 3G says it should be 47lbs/ft.
#61
This is a great DIY. Thanks to the writer. Did any of you guys have to get your front end re-aligned after this? I know it's usually recommended when putting on new struts, just wondering if any of you had a problem with this.
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myTaLizaS3.2 (10-06-2011)
#62
crazy me... had the top part of the supension facing a wall.. then the rear i had it wedged into bricks.. against the other wall.. then i started too take off the nut and KAPLOW!.. came loose without having everything shoot out everywhere.
was fun. rear.. eh.. i just unbolted it with the thing on the ground pointing anywhere..
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myTaLizaS3.2 (10-06-2011)
#66
NEED ADVICE...
I just had a small shop install my eibach pro kit on my 03 TL-S. The end result was two finger gap from fender to tire for the FRONT and only 1 finger gap for the REAR. Is this correct? Doest eibach springs suppose to lower the fronts more since specs say it lower 2.1 inches front and 1.6 rear? Seems that the rubber bump stops in the front were not trimmed and for the rear, 3 layers out of the five in the picture of the OP was cut off from the bottom which is more than 2 inches. Eibach instructs to just cut off 30mm for rubber stops. Is this something I need to worry about and should I bring back my car to the shop and have this fixed?
I just had a small shop install my eibach pro kit on my 03 TL-S. The end result was two finger gap from fender to tire for the FRONT and only 1 finger gap for the REAR. Is this correct? Doest eibach springs suppose to lower the fronts more since specs say it lower 2.1 inches front and 1.6 rear? Seems that the rubber bump stops in the front were not trimmed and for the rear, 3 layers out of the five in the picture of the OP was cut off from the bottom which is more than 2 inches. Eibach instructs to just cut off 30mm for rubber stops. Is this something I need to worry about and should I bring back my car to the shop and have this fixed?
#67
NEED ADVICE...
I just had a small shop install my eibach pro kit on my 03 TL-S. The end result was two finger gap from fender to tire for the FRONT and only 1 finger gap for the REAR. Is this correct? Doest eibach springs suppose to lower the fronts more since specs say it lower 2.1 inches front and 1.6 rear? Seems that the rubber bump stops in the front were not trimmed and for the rear, 3 layers out of the five in the picture of the OP was cut off from the bottom which is more than 2 inches. Eibach instructs to just cut off 30mm for rubber stops. Is this something I need to worry about and should I bring back my car to the shop and have this fixed?
I just had a small shop install my eibach pro kit on my 03 TL-S. The end result was two finger gap from fender to tire for the FRONT and only 1 finger gap for the REAR. Is this correct? Doest eibach springs suppose to lower the fronts more since specs say it lower 2.1 inches front and 1.6 rear? Seems that the rubber bump stops in the front were not trimmed and for the rear, 3 layers out of the five in the picture of the OP was cut off from the bottom which is more than 2 inches. Eibach instructs to just cut off 30mm for rubber stops. Is this something I need to worry about and should I bring back my car to the shop and have this fixed?
Take a measurement from the ground to bottom of the car-I got (without a lip kit) ~7 inches from ground to bottom of both L&R sides of the front bumper and ~11 inches from ground to bottom of both L&R sides of the rear. (Basically took a measurement from all four corners).
#68
Mine has a lip kit so i dont think we can compare measurements. im thinking maybe they put the wrong springs in the wrong place. zeus03tl that has eibachs too said that his gaps are even all around... i believe he has oem shock on too. did yours took time to settle? i was told to wait 2 weeks for springs to settle and maybe front gaps will decrease...
Thats the gap I have on my ride with the pros as well..about 1.5 fingers front and 1 in the back. It messes with you because the fender opening is larger (comes up higher) in the front, when in all actuality the car is lower in the front than the back.
Take a measurement from the ground to bottom of the car-I got (without a lip kit) ~7 inches from ground to bottom of both L&R sides of the front bumper and ~11 inches from ground to bottom of both L&R sides of the rear. (Basically took a measurement from all four corners).
Take a measurement from the ground to bottom of the car-I got (without a lip kit) ~7 inches from ground to bottom of both L&R sides of the front bumper and ~11 inches from ground to bottom of both L&R sides of the rear. (Basically took a measurement from all four corners).
#71
Your gaps are correct, i've gone through a lot of suspension types on my TL and that's how it usually is. The front has more finger gaps than the rears, probably because they wanted more wheel gap in the front for the engine weight or something.
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myTaLizaS3.2 (10-06-2011)
The following users liked this post:
myTaLizaS3.2 (10-06-2011)
#77
Hey, thanks for the DIY!. I just ordered my new struts - front and rear - to do this job on my '02 TL. But I got the fronts with the springs already on them. I figured at 168,000 miles, why not replace them too.
I like your wheels. What are they?
Peace!
I like your wheels. What are they?
Peace!
#78
With the right equipment swapping fronts and rears should take no longer than 1.5 hrs tops