I recently noticed the rear of the wheel well has had a rubbing spot. I replaced my radius rod bushings + endlinks (used Moog for both) a few months ago. I had to brake hard/last minute twice over the last 2 days and each time the passenger wheel was hardcore rubbing (loud) the rear of the wheel well.

When I look behind the wheel, you can clearly see where it's been grinding/melting the rear well lining. I did NOT get an alignment after changing my radius rod bushings...is it possible for my caster to be that far off to where my wheel rubs?...or are my control (upper and/or lower) are just worn? I don't really have the time to get under there until tomorrow night or wednesday

EDIT: To the best of my knowledge/memory, EVERYTHING was torqued to spec as well.

 

You should get an alignment when you replace the RR bushings. I would also review the torque on the self locking nut at the front of the radius rod. Your caster should not be allowing the wheel to contact the rear inner lining of the fender well during hard braking. Also, check to see if the inner LCA bushing is torn.

Good Luck.

 

Verify that everything you touched is still torqued properly.

Have you hit any curbs or any serious potholes? And x2 on checking the LCA bushings.

 

Well, I found the problem.

To my dismay, as soon as I took the splash shield off, the nut, front bushing, and inner cylinder FELL TO THE GROUND.

Good thing I still had my splash shield, or I would have lost all that!!...The rod had made a slight groove/half-moon in the frame from literally not having a bushing in the front. FSM calls for 40 ft/lbs, but I did 46 this time around. The driver's side was getting loose too (46 there too). I made sure each side had load before torquing.

I swear I torqued them properly last time. I know the FSM calls for a NEW self-locking nut, but I reused the same ones. Should I buy 2 new ones and put them on?

EDIT: I'm going to buy/install 2 new self-locking nuts for a piece of mind anyway.