control arm or alignment?
01-09-2012, 08:38 PM
#1
control arm or alignment?
I recently noticed the rear of the wheel well has had a rubbing spot. I replaced my radius rod bushings + endlinks (used Moog for both) a few months ago. I had to brake hard/last minute twice over the last 2 days and each time the passenger wheel was hardcore rubbing (loud) the rear of the wheel well.
When I look behind the wheel, you can clearly see where it's been grinding/melting the rear well lining. I did NOT get an alignment after changing my radius rod bushings...is it possible for my caster to be that far off to where my wheel rubs?...or are my control (upper and/or lower) are just worn? I don't really have the time to get under there until tomorrow night or wednesday
EDIT: To the best of my knowledge/memory, EVERYTHING was torqued to spec as well.
When I look behind the wheel, you can clearly see where it's been grinding/melting the rear well lining. I did NOT get an alignment after changing my radius rod bushings...is it possible for my caster to be that far off to where my wheel rubs?...or are my control (upper and/or lower) are just worn? I don't really have the time to get under there until tomorrow night or wednesday
EDIT: To the best of my knowledge/memory, EVERYTHING was torqued to spec as well.
Last edited by Neejay; 01-09-2012 at 08:43 PM.
01-10-2012, 08:32 AM
#2
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
I recently noticed the rear of the wheel well has had a rubbing spot. I replaced my radius rod bushings + endlinks (used Moog for both) a few months ago. I had to brake hard/last minute twice over the last 2 days and each time the passenger wheel was hardcore rubbing (loud) the rear of the wheel well.
When I look behind the wheel, you can clearly see where it's been grinding/melting the rear well lining. I did NOT get an alignment after changing my radius rod bushings...is it possible for my caster to be that far off to where my wheel rubs?...or are my control (upper and/or lower) are just worn? I don't really have the time to get under there until tomorrow night or wednesday
EDIT: To the best of my knowledge/memory, EVERYTHING was torqued to spec as well.
When I look behind the wheel, you can clearly see where it's been grinding/melting the rear well lining. I did NOT get an alignment after changing my radius rod bushings...is it possible for my caster to be that far off to where my wheel rubs?...or are my control (upper and/or lower) are just worn? I don't really have the time to get under there until tomorrow night or wednesday
EDIT: To the best of my knowledge/memory, EVERYTHING was torqued to spec as well.
Good Luck.
01-10-2012, 05:38 PM
#3
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Verify that everything you touched is still torqued properly.
Have you hit any curbs or any serious potholes? And x2 on checking the LCA bushings.
Have you hit any curbs or any serious potholes? And x2 on checking the LCA bushings.
01-10-2012, 10:35 PM
#4
Well, I found the problem.
To my dismay, as soon as I took the splash shield off, the nut, front bushing, and inner cylinder FELL TO THE GROUND.
Good thing I still had my splash shield, or I would have lost all that!!...The rod had made a slight groove/half-moon in the frame from literally not having a bushing in the front. FSM calls for 40 ft/lbs, but I did 46 this time around. The driver's side was getting loose too (46 there too). I made sure each side had load before torquing.
I swear I torqued them properly last time. I know the FSM calls for a NEW self-locking nut, but I reused the same ones. Should I buy 2 new ones and put them on?
EDIT: I'm going to buy/install 2 new self-locking nuts for a piece of mind anyway.
To my dismay, as soon as I took the splash shield off, the nut, front bushing, and inner cylinder FELL TO THE GROUND.
Good thing I still had my splash shield, or I would have lost all that!!...The rod had made a slight groove/half-moon in the frame from literally not having a bushing in the front. FSM calls for 40 ft/lbs, but I did 46 this time around. The driver's side was getting loose too (46 there too). I made sure each side had load before torquing.
I swear I torqued them properly last time. I know the FSM calls for a NEW self-locking nut, but I reused the same ones. Should I buy 2 new ones and put them on?
EDIT: I'm going to buy/install 2 new self-locking nuts for a piece of mind anyway.
Last edited by Neejay; 01-10-2012 at 10:38 PM.
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