fgoh

Ready to replace my front brake pads 1st time, using OEMs. To-do steps look easy enough. Then I saw the little grease packet that comes with the new pads. So did a search & now I'm confused--some say the grease goes between the pad-back & piston (so this would be when there's no shims, or is it between the piston & shim?) while others say the grease goes between the shim & back of the pad (shim sandwich). Can anyone help clear this up?

Many thanks.

totaledTL

No shims betw. piston & back of pad. Use betw. back of pad/piston, caliper slide pins, & where the pads contact/move (ears on end of pads, not on the friction material).

01tl4tl

see where the old pads have contact wear marks on the back of them from the caliper piston?- grease the new ones in those places- wipe the piston edges clean with a rag.

On the outer pad,- there will be marks from the `fingers` on the caliper, grease where those will contact, and the little tab on the end of the pad gets a good gob

Clean the shiny plates that go across the rotor, on the bracket, -the things the pads fit into, and the pad tabs are the motion point of the pads under braking
those must be spotless- no old dirty grease and grime!!-
put a small glob on the end tabs- the pads have to slide on those shiny plates when you apply the brakes- not so much grease it gets on the rotor- enough to provide for some movement is the idea

The pads clip in - there is spring pressure in those slide things, one end in first then slide the other end and clip- they are in secure- should have slight movement of pads and caliper on its mounts- the rubber boot area- the caliper should slide easily there side to side- thats what moves under braking too

make sure to torque everything properly
check the DIY section for full pics and details

I would flush the brake fluid BEFORE changing the pads- crud forms in the fluid (google hygroscopic) and settles in the caliper- if you remove the caliper and flip it over and change the angle of the dangle as you are working --
THEN you compress the piston into the the caliper- backwashing the fluid into the main part of the system- possibly even the ABS controller- very expensive fix

Supposed to change every year starting at year 3 per acura book
Change it before the brake pad job and all will be safe - nothing but pure clean new fluid in the system as it gets moved backwards
Bleed order/flush order is LF= driver front, then clockwise around the car LF RF RR LR
I know its bizzarre- its an acura- just do it that way!

thinhthan

on the side of the pad that touches the calipar

fgoh

thanks everyone. I did a DIY search & with all your replies & posts I figured where to (and not-to) put the grease--pins, caliper, piston, pad and shim back, & ears. Did it last nite w/o problems, & no squeals/squeaks today. Didn't get to flush it tho' so I guess I have more tlc work this weekend.