Vibration and jiggling steering wheel *after* brake job
#1
Vibration and jiggling steering wheel *after* brake job
I've been experiencing a lot of vibration when braking, as well as the steering wheel jiggling back and forth while driving at highway speeds.
In the past, I had been advised that this is typically caused by worn break parts. Therefore, I changed the brake rotor and pads on my front brakes.
However, the problem still remains about as severe as it was before the service, plus my brake pedal seems to feel much softer than it was before the service. I took it to a shop where they told me that there's nothing wrong with the brakes. BS! The brakes vibrate and the pedal feels soft. I'm afraid that I might not be able to make an emergency stop.
I'm thinking that perhaps I should service my rear brakes (I have an extra set of pads laying around), but I wanted to ask for advise here first because you guys have saved me so much time and headaches. (I still can't believe that you guys had me buy a $50 pair of replacement HID headlight parts when the factory parts cost over $1000 for each light, but it works!)
In the past, I had been advised that this is typically caused by worn break parts. Therefore, I changed the brake rotor and pads on my front brakes.
However, the problem still remains about as severe as it was before the service, plus my brake pedal seems to feel much softer than it was before the service. I took it to a shop where they told me that there's nothing wrong with the brakes. BS! The brakes vibrate and the pedal feels soft. I'm afraid that I might not be able to make an emergency stop.
I'm thinking that perhaps I should service my rear brakes (I have an extra set of pads laying around), but I wanted to ask for advise here first because you guys have saved me so much time and headaches. (I still can't believe that you guys had me buy a $50 pair of replacement HID headlight parts when the factory parts cost over $1000 for each light, but it works!)
#2
Hey 210_the_man, if the replacement rotors and pads were properly bedded, it may very well be something else with the other suspension or steering components. Did the shop look at anything else for wear or play ? Could possibly be as simple as worn tie rods, poorly balanced tires, or over-torqued lug nuts.....IDK ? Maybe rotate.
For the soft brakes, try flushing the brake fluid and replace with new. Then bleed the system using this sequence: ...... starting at driver's front, passenger's front, passenger's rear and then finally driver's rear.
For the soft brakes, try flushing the brake fluid and replace with new. Then bleed the system using this sequence: ...... starting at driver's front, passenger's front, passenger's rear and then finally driver's rear.
Last edited by 3.2TLc; 06-21-2014 at 08:59 PM.
#3
soft pedal is often old brake fluid, every year flush is preferred and 3 years max between flush
as noted LF RF RR LR absolutely no other order
All pads are wearing equal- removed ones were even ?
what's the wear on the rear pads?
NOTE!!
make sure new rear pads have only 2 raised tabs on inner pads backing plate-one holds the noise tab other is just there
if 3 raised tabs are present those are the wrong pads for the TL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
bad things will happen I assure you
as noted LF RF RR LR absolutely no other order
All pads are wearing equal- removed ones were even ?
what's the wear on the rear pads?
NOTE!!
make sure new rear pads have only 2 raised tabs on inner pads backing plate-one holds the noise tab other is just there
if 3 raised tabs are present those are the wrong pads for the TL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
bad things will happen I assure you
#4
Safety Car
If you replaced the front brakes and rotors and you still have "brake judder" than you should inspect the rear brakes for uneven brake wear and also check to see if the rear calipers are working.
You can get "brake judder" from rear brakes not working correctly.
You can get "brake judder" from rear brakes not working correctly.
#5
that's how I figured out the extra/3rd raised tab issue on inner pad of rears
all new high quality parts and done right, but chasing a shake shudder judder
all new high quality parts and done right, but chasing a shake shudder judder
#6
Disclosure Im not the only one who figured it out and probably not even the first!
but its a big deal on any car
but its a big deal on any car
#7
Thanks for the answers. I'm going to service my rear brakes and see if that fixes the vibration.
As for the brake fluid change, I've never done it before and have the impression that it's a pretty big PITA to DIY, so I might have that done at the shop.
As for the brake fluid change, I've never done it before and have the impression that it's a pretty big PITA to DIY, so I might have that done at the shop.
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#8
Read the "DIY" sticky for the brake fluid change.
It's not all that difficult, but remember to properly bleed the brakes..... starting at Front Driver, then Front Passenger, then Rear Passenger, and finally Rear Driver. You can do it !!!
It's not all that difficult, but remember to properly bleed the brakes..... starting at Front Driver, then Front Passenger, then Rear Passenger, and finally Rear Driver. You can do it !!!
#9
Safety Car
There is a brake bleeder kit from Harbor Freight Tools ( if you have one in your area) that makes the job go very smooth and even easy for a first timer. Make sure all the debris and bubbles are out before moving on to the next tire. Never let the reservoir go empty when flushing the brake fluid adding more fluid as necessary.
Brake bleeder kit 25 bucks, 2 quarts brake fluid 15 bucks, shop 65-90 bucks. Do it yourself and buy a pepsi with the money you saved.
#10
having ramps or a floor jack are nice if your car is lowered,,some skinny people can reach in and access the bleeder nipple on stock height
others have to remove 2 wheels,,,depends on your rims and suspension mods
while I totally encourage DIY -if you have any doubts about this, let the brake specialty shop do it while you watch
next year its your turn!
as I suggested in another thread- Regions link will help you find ziners in your area,,many are happy to help and instruct
others have to remove 2 wheels,,,depends on your rims and suspension mods
while I totally encourage DIY -if you have any doubts about this, let the brake specialty shop do it while you watch
next year its your turn!
as I suggested in another thread- Regions link will help you find ziners in your area,,many are happy to help and instruct
#11
Thank you for all the helpful responses.
I decided that I'm not up for a brake fluid change right now.
I took my car to a Midas shop. (These are really hit and miss in my experience). They told me that when I changed the front brake pads, they didn't seat correctly against the rotor, causing vibration and scoring the rotors. They resurfaced the front rotors. They said that the rear rotors are at the end of their life and need to be replaced, so I let them do that too, plus the brake fluid exchange.
The total for everything was $270 after a $20 discount coupon.
The car brakes and handles perfectly now! Hopefully, I'll be up for a DIY job next time.
I decided that I'm not up for a brake fluid change right now.
I took my car to a Midas shop. (These are really hit and miss in my experience). They told me that when I changed the front brake pads, they didn't seat correctly against the rotor, causing vibration and scoring the rotors. They resurfaced the front rotors. They said that the rear rotors are at the end of their life and need to be replaced, so I let them do that too, plus the brake fluid exchange.
The total for everything was $270 after a $20 discount coupon.
The car brakes and handles perfectly now! Hopefully, I'll be up for a DIY job next time.
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