heytiggr

Hi All,

I tried multiple searches before posting this and I just can't find what I am looking for...Too bad there isn't a separate DIY forum heading.

I am looking for the DIY for replacing the spark plugs. I have done many spark plug replacements but this will be my first on this car and my first when dealing with direct coil packs instead of wires. I'd like to see the DIY to make sure I know exactly what I have to be careful of before I start.

Thanks for your help!

fsttyms1

There is a Separate DIY thread.

3rd one down
https://acurazine.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=98


That said there isnt a DIY for the plugs in there. Its very simple and straight forward though. Remove the plastic engine covers, unbolt the coilpacks and unplug them. Simply pull up and out. Then stick a sparkplug socket with 6" plus extension and remove.

Back is the same way. If you have a blanket lay that on the motor for you to lay on, it will make seeing and doing much easier.

heytiggr

Thanks - I saw the DIY thread right after I posted this. I was thinking a completely separate forum on How To like I have seen on other websites.

Anyway, thanks for the confirmation that it is simple as I was thinking.

murky

Do you need a torque wrench? Do you need to apply anything to the threads? Do you have to measure a gap or otherwise verify anything on the plugs before installing them? NGK Iridium IX for 2000 3.2TL, right?

What are ways that a novice might screw up?

You can probably tell I've never installed plugs before, right?

totaledTL

Replace plugs on a cold engine. Extra deep plug socket is very useful on this engine. Handle the coils with care, others say they can be damaged if dropped. Start threading the new plugs in by hand to avoid cross threading. Apply some anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs- will make future removal easier.

fsttyms1

Plugs should come pre gaped. Never hurts to check though.

Bearcat94

A little bit of anti-sieze on the new plug threads before install.

Rear plugs are tough to reach: lay on the engine; use a 6" extention and a 3" extension (NOT a 10" - use 2 peices) and slide the 6" in, then connect the 3". Thats for the rear only.

Do not cross thread and do not over tighten.



It's so easy, even I could do it. You'll get, just be careful and take your time.

murky

Thank you guys for the advice.

Do you use a torque wrench, or do you turn a fixed amount past finger tight?

I think Acura specs 13 foot*lbs if I remember correctly but doesn't say if that is a dry torque or with anti-seize. That makes a fixed rotation angle more attractive 2/3 of a turn if I'm going to use an anti-seize compound.

Do you put a dialectric grease on the contact or boot?



NGK says to clean the threads. Do you do that? If so, how?

murky

OK, I picked up the Iridium 9s and a packet of dialectric grease for the boots. I already have anti-seize fore the threads and a 5/8" spark plug socket and some extensions.

At Autozone the guy looked up the gap and said it should 0.044" and then proceded to try and adjust it and then complained that it was hard and kinda gave up when he got it to 0.042. It started around 0.039.

Well, when that guy went to help another customer I asked the woman there to give me a different plug (than the one he messed with). They had exactly 7 in the store so I got the 6 that weren't tampered with.

Acura owner's manual says 0.040. What is the tolerance on that spec? I'm assuming that 0.039 o 0.041 is good enough, yeah? That's within 3%.

totaledTL

The service manual spec. range is .039 - .043 with a service limit of .051.

murky

Perfect, thank you that's exactly what I was looking for.

I interpret that to mean that an intitial gap 0.039 is fine and they will open up with use as the electrodes lose material. The maintenance interval is such that under normal conditions they are replaced before the gap reaches 0.051

I don't know where Autozone pulled the 0.044

d4atls

well we do call em "autostoned" here in AL..... not to often they do know what the hell they're talking about....

murky

OK, it did it and seems to have turned out OK. It took about 1 1/2 hours. The hardest part was disconnecting the wire to the coil pack at the corner closest to the passenger seat. Its really difficult to get your hand down in there. I wound up using a screwdriver to press on the latch and managed to pull it off. It was very tempting to pull by the wire.

Two of the plugs in the front were pretty loose. I think these are the original plugs since I don't recall having had them replaced before.

I used anti-seize on the threads but didn't bother with the dialectric grease for the other end. The coils contact the plug via a spring and it didn't seem like adding grease in there would help anything.

ysr84

The only problem i am having is to reach the rear side of the engine motor. I have a 02 TL type S .. i dont know if it makes it any different from the older models when dealing with spark plugs. I think i have to disconnect some kind of thing to reach the back end. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance

speedemon90

quick question, if the service manual says u need a gap of .039-.043, how can you tell when you are at that gap range?

murky

With a feeler gauge. But apparently the plugs are supposed to be pre-gapped and not adjustable. So if it is out of spec you need a new one.

totaledTL

Yes, buy a feeler gauge, they're cheap.

webmastir

i'm about to replace my plugs on my 03 tl-p, but is a torque wrench necessary for this job? i see that you need other parts, but i'm just wondering specifically about the necessity of the torque wrench.

totaledTL

Not absolutely necessary but recommended. On the box it will probably say how far to turn it after it makes contact, to crush the sealing washer.

fsttyms1

Just use your HEAD and not get them as tight as you possibly can. They dont take much to torque them to spec. I like to tighten them by had till they touch the seat, then typically 1/4 to 1/2 turn is all it needs.

webmastir

thanks...will go pick up some Ngk-Ix-Iridium plugs then
(@ 150k & never had em changed before )

cgpftw10

I would reccomend making sure you plug all the connectors back in after installing and BEFORE you start the car. I didn't double check myself and forgot one plug. I had a REALLY rough idle but it got better as I revved it.

webmastir

heh, will make sure i remember

webmastir

doh, time ran out to edit last post
not sure if this is normal, but i'm more excited that I get to finally seafoam through the vac line before changing plugs

webmastir

01tl4tl posted this in another thread recently.
err, 1 last question guys(i promise).
is the vac tubing really necessary, or is it just to make it easier?

totaledTL

It's just so you can screw the plug in the threads straight without the risk of crossthreading. The tubing will spin on the plug rather than turn the plug if you start it crooked.

murky

I didn't use it and didn't really feel it was necessary. I was just careful and turned the extension by hand (without the handle) for the first several turns.

totaledTL

That's what I've always done, without incident.

webmastir

thought so. thanks

webmastir

triple checking here..
so i see that i'll need a 6" & 3" extension for my 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the plugs + the spark plug socket that fits these iridiums, correct?
Then I'm going to need another 2 extensions (6 and 3") + s.p. socket to fit my 1/2" drive torque wrench..? so going to be needing 6 things, am i right?

i'm about to go pick them up on my way home form work in a hour...so i hope someone that knows will see this pretty soon. i'll be doing this 1st thing in the morning

webmastir

well...nvm now

webmastir

thanks for all the info in this thread guys!
i finally did it & was pretty easy, except for that one in the rear on passenger side that everyone warned about.

anyway, for future readers. here's why not to wait 150k miles before changing spark plugs

topper1296

I just finished up changing mine for the first time ever. I don't spend a lot of time under the hood of my car and it took me about 1 hour 15min. My old plugs had about 110k miles on them. I never did use the 3" ext. I used the 6" to do the whole job. It started up fine, so I guess its all good.

webmastir

Same, about the 3" extension. It felt good to be able to change my own ...thanks to everyones help.

(p.s. i realized the pic i posted of my plugs weren't that bad, from what i hear. guess i haven't seen a REALLY BAD ONE)

Rob RiL

iTrader: (5)

yup. I was thinking how your reference pic looked decent compared to what i've seen in abused cars (oil soaked or fuel fouled plugs). Yours just showed age deterioration, imo. You should save a few for spares