Transmission bypass spin on filter replacement

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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 09:56 AM
  #41  
bellssn690's Avatar
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Originally Posted by JIGS
Check the transmission fluid level.
From what i have read, the level should be between the 2 dot, too less and too much is not good. someone else can verify this.

How to Reset the "Maintenance Required"

Push the Select and Reset switch at the same time, trun the ignition switch ON (II), and hold them more than 10 seconds
Thank you, sir! I appreciate your help!
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 10:55 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by bellssn690
Thank you, sir! I appreciate your help!
Did it work for you?
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 11:08 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by JIGS
Did it work for you?
It did reset the blinking! Also, when I checked my tranny dipstick, the engine was not running and the level WAS above the second hole by a good bit. I guess I shouldn't have added the whole quart after replacing the filter.....
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 12:09 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by bellssn690
It did reset the blinking! Also, when I checked my tranny dipstick, the engine was not running and the level WAS above the second hole by a good bit. I guess I shouldn't have added the whole quart after replacing the filter.....
Good. atleast the light reset.
As of the extra oil, i m not sure if it is OK or BAD.
Need input from others.
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Old Jun 18, 2015 | 06:50 AM
  #45  
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As long as its not coming out of the filler tube its ok. If you are still concerned you could take a large syringe or pump and a small tube and stick it down the filler tube and suck some fluid out. I had Ford Probe that had a terrible hard shift and the ATF was chocolate syrup all the time. Rather than drain and fill, I would just suck a quart or two out every three months and then add new. It was easier than drain and refills and I went over 50K with that transmission before I sold it. The guy who bought it went another 30K.
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Old Jun 19, 2015 | 11:25 AM
  #46  
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Should be between the dots. And not over the top dot. Overfill is bad. These trannys are problematic to begin with, so best to remove the excess fluid.
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Old Oct 9, 2015 | 08:10 PM
  #47  
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2000 Acura TL
 
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Just to update, my tranny started to slip.. gona check the solenoid screen tomorrow, hope to prolong it longer..

Damn you Acura.. !!
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Old Oct 10, 2015 | 06:20 PM
  #48  
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2000 Acura TL
 
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From: Eastbay, CA
Did the solenoid cleaning and replace the bypass filter today, took test drive about 30 miles.. didn't notice any slippage yet.. but I think this is a temporary fix..

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Didn't look bad at all.. but notice it a paper gasket, and i didn't have a replacement so i reinstall as it was, didn't see any leak after the test drive. Hope it won't leak..

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The front one look cruddy..

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Old Oct 10, 2015 | 06:43 PM
  #49  
Chojun's Avatar
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Yep that's a pretty dirty screen. I'd change your fluid 3 quart every 3-6K miles or so and see if the quality improves. Time to start saving for an AV6 at any rate.
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Old Oct 10, 2015 | 10:28 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by closetprisoner
Just to update, my tranny started to slip.. gona check the solenoid screen tomorrow, hope to prolong it longer..

Damn you Acura.. !!
Just curious, when you guys say that your "transmission is starting to slip" what exactly are you guys referring to?

The shudder when it shifts from gear to gear, or where the car won't rev properly?

And how long did it take for your car to completely die on your once you noticed the minor shuddering/shaking?
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Old Oct 11, 2015 | 12:18 AM
  #51  
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2000 Acura TL
 
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From: Eastbay, CA
I notice last week that it shudder when the gear shift, then yesterday when i heavy foot on the throttle, i see my RPM up to 6k and go no where but hear the motor rev. Same symptom few years back with my Odyssey. Am hoping not to spend a big chunk on it anytime soon.
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Old Oct 11, 2015 | 04:13 PM
  #52  
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How long did you have the "shuddering" during gear shift before you finally had the RPM shoot up?

I am noticing some occasional shuddering (not always) for about ~3000-4000 miles now; when do you guys think I'll have the same issue?

I'm actually in the process of selling the car lol
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Old Oct 11, 2015 | 07:52 PM
  #53  
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My tranny was slipping and would just rev in D and not move last winter. Too cold to do my own repairs, I reluctantly took it to my mechanic. They said they'll change the filter and see how it would go from there. After they tested it for almost 50kms, they said the tranny is good again. Total BS! Not even 5 mins of driving, the tranny started to slip again and I almost didn't make it back home in rush hour.

I paid them almost $300CAD for this job. The fact they said it was okay pissed me off more than getting ripped off.

I'm never going back to them again nor will I ever visit the mechanic unless I cannot fix myself. I ended up removing the tranny myself and found a donor AV6 tranny with 73,000kms. I put over 1000kms so far and having no problems.

My next job is timing belt replacement. The brake lines are also rusted beyond belief and I reckon it will go any time (fixed one section already). I had a hell of a time making usable flares with a $40 tool (Princess Auto). It can get the job done but it ain't going to be fun. I bought a different type from Canadian Tire and it was complete crap. The holes were not even drill straight and was completely useless. What a pain in the butt as I failed 2x making a usable flare underneath the car and ran out of usable brake line. I had to remove the flare nut from the proportional valve in the hood and replaced about 10ft of line. A 1 hr job turned into a whole afternoon. Next time I need to fix brake lines, I'm ready for it. I bought a Mastercool hydraulic flare tool. It's pricey but I figure replacing two brake lines will pay for this tool. Sorry, went way off topic here. :P
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Old Oct 11, 2015 | 10:26 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by AyyCee
Just curious, when you guys say that your "transmission is starting to slip" what exactly are you guys referring to?

The shudder when it shifts from gear to gear, or where the car won't rev properly?

And how long did it take for your car to completely die on your once you noticed the minor shuddering/shaking?
Basically, it feels like you're in neutral. You might press on the accelerator pedal and the engine revs quickly, but the car isn't moving faster.
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Old Oct 12, 2015 | 10:38 AM
  #55  
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When I first got my car at around ~50K it would always shudder from 1st -> 2nd when warm and accelerating under light-to-moderate load. I didn't know any better but 45K miles later my transmission would die.

If you are experiencing shuddering and intend to keep your car then start saving up for repairs/AV6 replacement now. I'd try regular fluid changes to see if the shuddering goes away.
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 09:49 PM
  #56  
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2000 Acura TL
 
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From: Eastbay, CA
I still get the slipping sometime.

Anyone know any reputable fair price tranny shop in the SF BayArea??

What's the average cost ?? Want to price it to see if it worth the cost. Car is CLEAN but got 250k on it.
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Old Oct 19, 2015 | 10:47 PM
  #57  
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For a rebuild you will probably be in the $3500-5K range. Mine was $4K in Utah from a 'big box' mechanic - at the time I should've been able to source a rebuild for around $2.5K or so if I'd done my homework.
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 10:15 PM
  #58  
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2000 Acura TL
 
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From: Eastbay, CA
Got my tranny rebuilt

I got it rebuilt for $2k, just got the car back yesterday after a week at the shop.. he show me the clutch pack that are worn and the casing where the counter shaft bearing sit was loose, so he replace the casing too, few bearings and gears.. btw, the tranny was original, so it not bad that it lasted 250k miles.

However, i think during the re-install, they damage the cv boot, cuz when i got home to do a more close inspection, i see sludge splash from the axle boot, first thought was damn, it leak already ?? but somehow they damage the axle boot on the driver side. I didn't even bother to contact the shop cuz this will be the blame game or incidentally it did break on it own after I left the shop. Who knows.! so i change it out myself with best part you can get at autozone.. LOL

This is the route i took.. cuz no $ for another car, figure if $2k will last me few more years, plus I know my car and all the symptom it comes with.
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