tranny isue AFTER rebuild
11-09-2015, 02:21 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
tranny isue AFTER rebuild
had the tranny re-built in my 2003 A-spec in March.
Since then it has been difficult to get it in drive particularly D5.
Once the dash light confirms I am in drive, it works perfectly
but it takes a lot of dicking around with the shifter before the D5 indicator light comes on; and the problem is getting worse. There is also a small leak but I assume that's unrelated.
For reasons that I'm not going to go into in detail, I refuse to take it back to that jerk.
In the city I live in, a high % of transmission shops are rip-offs, so I would like an opinion from this forum as to whether this sounds like a big fix or some relatively minor adjustment? I am definitely not going to invest in another re-build; I'll scrap it first.
Since then it has been difficult to get it in drive particularly D5.
Once the dash light confirms I am in drive, it works perfectly
but it takes a lot of dicking around with the shifter before the D5 indicator light comes on; and the problem is getting worse. There is also a small leak but I assume that's unrelated.For reasons that I'm not going to go into in detail, I refuse to take it back to that jerk.
In the city I live in, a high % of transmission shops are rip-offs, so I would like an opinion from this forum as to whether this sounds like a big fix or some relatively minor adjustment? I am definitely not going to invest in another re-build; I'll scrap it first.
11-09-2015, 02:51 PM
#2
Drifting
Mostly likely something to do with the trans Range Switch or Trans cable adjustment.
Check for loose connection at range switch, adjust/replace if necessary; loose cable at shifter (occupant cabin) and trans lever (engine bay), adjust if necessary.
Check for loose connection at range switch, adjust/replace if necessary; loose cable at shifter (occupant cabin) and trans lever (engine bay), adjust if necessary.
11-09-2015, 03:15 PM
#3
I actually have the same problem but mine is in D3 and N. D5 would be a more serious problem in terms of annoyance. I have a leak as well, the underside of my trans is always wet (and something burning when I shut off my car in the garage). The only fluid I'm having to constantly replace is P/S fluid though.
I think my shift cable is out of adjustment and the problem started when I had my trans rebuilt. I just think these mechanics are in a hurry to get things slapped back together and they don't adjust the cable properly.
(offtopic)
And I totally agree, most mechanics are assholes. I really f'n HATE them. A labor rate of $80-$110 per hour on average, when the actual mechanics themselves get ~$25 per hour is just ridiculous. It's complete douchebaggery and it's my life mission to make all these big box mechanic shop types (and dealers) go out of business.
(/offtopic)
I think my shift cable is out of adjustment and the problem started when I had my trans rebuilt. I just think these mechanics are in a hurry to get things slapped back together and they don't adjust the cable properly.
(offtopic)
And I totally agree, most mechanics are assholes. I really f'n HATE them. A labor rate of $80-$110 per hour on average, when the actual mechanics themselves get ~$25 per hour is just ridiculous. It's complete douchebaggery and it's my life mission to make all these big box mechanic shop types (and dealers) go out of business.
(/offtopic)
11-09-2015, 03:22 PM
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
(offtopic)
And I totally agree, most mechanics are assholes. I really f'n HATE them. A labor rate of $80-$110 per hour on average, when the actual mechanics themselves get ~$25 per hour is just ridiculous. It's complete douchebaggery and it's my life mission to make all these big box mechanic shop types (and dealers) go out of business.
(/offtopic)
11-09-2015, 03:55 PM
#7
Which solenoids are you referring to?
My issue is with the shift selection - I have to screw with the shift selector a little to get the D3 light to come on and same with N. When in N the gear indicator (normally red in the instrument cluster) usually turns off and the reverse gate deal freaks out (clicks rapidly in the center console).
My issue is with the shift selection - I have to screw with the shift selector a little to get the D3 light to come on and same with N. When in N the gear indicator (normally red in the instrument cluster) usually turns off and the reverse gate deal freaks out (clicks rapidly in the center console).
Last edited by Chojun; 11-09-2015 at 03:57 PM.
Trending Topics
11-09-2015, 04:57 PM
#8
Which solenoids are you referring to?
My issue is with the shift selection - I have to screw with the shift selector a little to get the D3 light to come on and same with N. When in N the gear indicator (normally red in the instrument cluster) usually turns off and the reverse gate deal freaks out (clicks rapidly in the center console).
My issue is with the shift selection - I have to screw with the shift selector a little to get the D3 light to come on and same with N. When in N the gear indicator (normally red in the instrument cluster) usually turns off and the reverse gate deal freaks out (clicks rapidly in the center console).
The following users liked this post:
Chojun (11-09-2015)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
The Machine
3G TL Problems & Fixes
1
11-11-2015 03:00 PM
urtalkin2sonny
3G TL Tires, Wheels & Suspension
15
11-04-2015 07:34 PM