so changed my timing belt today. didnt move the cams or crank. everything was top dead. all the marks lined up. reused the old tensioner. put it all back together started it up. started went to 1000 rpm then died. pulled it all apart. the timing belt jumped a whole bunch of teeth. so i took it all apart redid everything put it all back together. starts up and runs but sounds like a deisel. dont know what to do. did the timing belt so this woulnt happen. can i drive it like this?



thanks
matt

 

i wouldn't recommend it your belt could keep jumping.

 

Sounds like you bent the valves. If you re-did it and surely everything lined up, then valves are bent. Missing the marks normally it is not a real problem, normally the new belt was not installed properly.

 

any idea how many hours and parts this will cost me? i am gonna get someone to do it for me. i need the car and dont have the time or patents. thanks

 

Bent valves are big $$.

Total guess here, but I'd say upwards of 1k, parts and labor.

 

i was figuring 10-12 hours labour plus parts. whats a head gasket worth? i guess i will find out tomorrow. i am sick to my stomach. i am gonna do a compression check first thing in the morning to make sure. but i am pretty sure

 

Honestly if you bent valves all the work involved would cost more than buying a lower mileage motor (can be had for 3-600 bucks). You are positive every thing is back in place properly? The rear one likes to turn 1/4 turn off very easy. You NEED to put the belt on counter clockwise starting at the crank. Make sure all 3 marks are aligned.

 

Might want to check the price on a used set of heads from a junkyard. That could save you a lot of $ in labor costs for replacing bent valves and milling heads, etc. When I warped the heads on my 300zx turbo, I got some used heads for pretty cheap. (Anything to save a little $$!)

 

Also, just for reference, my buddy threw his TB on his Prelude and bent the valves. Cost him (IIRC) about $1200, and that was with a used head (only one since a 4cyl.) This was 10 years ago, so I'm sure it will be more, but still not that bad since the Acura dealer here in Richmond wants $700 just for the TB and WP.

 

Its easy to bend valves..only takes the slightest movement to make the marks mis-align.

Its pretty expensive to fix-a shop fugged 2 valves in each head a while back on my car and it was over 800 to fix, their cost..

I agree with fsttyms1-probably cheaper for you to find a junk motor and get the heads off that.

 

yeah i am sure the marks are lined up. it runs fine. just loud valves. i will look into another engine too.

 

its not missing? if its not missing you might just have the adjustment wrong on your valves man..these engines are sensitive to valve lash adjustment. Mine was off and the car would die when cold..

 

Hi Mouse :

Real sorry to hear about your situation. I'm somewhat surprised it still runs with bent valves. I'm wondering if there is anyway to verify if the valves are truly damaged without taking too much of the engine apart.

Anyone ?

smartypants

 

It wouldnt run fine with bent valves. I know it sounds redundant but are you sure the timing marks (all 3) are aligned?

You may want to try adjusting your valves. Maybe you knocked them out of adjustment enough to be noisy (since you say it runs right) There is a DIY on adjusting valves. Its not hard

 

ok so here we are. i tested the compression today. all above 190 cold. still a little noisey. took it for a drive it drives fine. check engine light came on with interment tcs. i am hoping that its from turning it over for the compression check. also if it idles the check engine light will flash. i am trying to get a code reader right now. i am hoping it knocked the valves out of adjustment. any other ideas for the check engine light?

thanks again so much i cant thank everyone enough!

on a postive note i think i have my wife convinced to let me buy my dads 06 tl which is just coming off lease.

 

run over to a pep boys, auto zone, etc and they will pull up the codes for you.

It sounds to me like you need a valve adjustment. There is no way you would get that high of compression numbers if any valves were bent..

 

ok i bought a code reader. cly 2, 5, and 6 misfire. and random misfire 1399. according to the manual under random conditions it says i need to adjust the vavles. which i am gonna do tomorrow. i hope i dont damage it by taking it to work. 120 miles round trip.

 

I would NEVER drive a car with issues like you have. You could be causing more damage where it may have been a cheap fix.

Flashing CEL is misfire. Adjust your valves and see if it clears things up

 

I would NEVER drive a car with issues like you have. You could be causing more damage where it may have been a cheap fix.

Flashing CEL is misfire. Adjust your valves and see if it clears things up

 

ok fsttyms1 apparently i am a total moron. you were right about the timing marks. the rear cam turned out to be one tooth off. vavles arent as noisey now and the engine light doesnt come on. i am so surprised how well it ran like that. also that there was no other damage. thanks again everyone! i might be completely stupid but i would still do it again myself. i dont want to discourage anyone from this job. just make sure you triple check everything before you start it. make sure there is lots of tension on the belt too. i didnt have the crank tool and my impact gun wouldnt take off the bolt. so i read some where else to put the bar on it and crack the starter. it worked well probably not great way but if you are in a bind it worked for me.

thanks again everyone

matt

 

Glad everything worked out for you. I gotta do that service soon but im going to someone.

 

Its very easy to move it one tooth and why i say to double and triple check. Also for future reference start from the crank and work counter clockwise.

 

youre VERY lucky it didnt do any damage. Theres not much Piston to Valve clearance in these engines.. Glad you got it worked out.

 

ok now that i listen to it a little more its still a little noisy. to adjust the valves on the front cylinders do you have to remove the intake? i would like to just start with that and see if it makes a difference. Or do i gotta go deep and do it all? thanks matt

 

^Intake manifold? Yes it has to come off. Air box doesn't but has to be disconnected from the TB.

It makes NO sense for you to do just the fronts. While you have the IM and everything off, adjust all 6.

 

Hi Mouse :

Glad to hear it all worked out.

I'll bet you've got some dents in the tops of your pistons !


smartypants