So yesterday afternoon after i picked my daughter up i hopped on the highway to get home. My car was overheating so i pulled to the side of the highway and waited for it to cool off.
Then i started driving again and hopped off the next exit. All of a sudden the car just died. I have been noticing a coolant leak but it didnt seem serious someone said i may need a waterpump? Does that have anything to do with the car just dying. So anyways It wont start for me. I try to turn it on and it clicks over and makes an ugly ass sound but it wont turn on. Also when i turn the key forward but not on all the way the dashboard flashes and it wont show levels of anything or temp only shows mileage and the lights flash.

 

the water pump and timing belt + a few other things are due at 7 years or 105,000 miles
any coolant leak is important!, the wp has a special `weep hole` that allows coolant to leak out-if the internal rubber seal has failed--to let you know~

How long has the temp been going above half--it should always run 1-2 lines below half
did it hit redline? more than once? was the driver side cooling fan running?
Redline temps or constant overheat can damage the cylinder heads

Now: it may have gotten coolant on the starter or other electrical and causing that problem. Do the headlights work? what about jump starting?

Ck the oil- is the level correct and clean tan/gold fluid or normal dirty,
or is it suddenly above max and has brown or foamy look to it?
or down a bunch- when wp bad oil gets used up to cool engine

In the radiator- remove cap and look inside- its probably not full to the top- Is the metal inside shiny and those openings clean?

hoses are subject to leaks too

When the water pump is failing, it isnt cooling properly inside the engine
guages may not indicate problem
redline temp it a few times and run it hot inside long enough,, the piston rings can sieze -preventing the engine from turning over or running right

Look at the oil and coolant as described above,,and the resivour bottle for the coolant, is it empty now? or filled with good looking coolant or muck???
is the rubber hose inside cap attched firmly?

report back with findings

 

Is the weep hole on the front right side? if so thats what is leaking. checked oil Its a nice clean color and still at proper level. The gauge did red line but only for about 30 seconds then i pulled over and shut the car off. Radior looks yucky inside. Reservoir is empty and looks yucky inside as well...The headlights do work.

 

Also how would i be able to tell if the engine is messed up? Is there something i can take apart and look? what should i look for.

 

someone said the timing belt could be done?

 

the water pump is passenger side of engine,,,mucky fluid is not good

while the timing belt is a possible- when that breaks there is usually a lot of noise
When that happens the camshafts that run the valves are seperated from the crankshaft that turns them,,stopped in position
When the engine turns over -some exhaust valves will be in an open position-
where they strike the top of the rising pistons!!--bends the shaft of the valve and maybe its edge so it wont seal anymore
Requires seriou$ work to repair that damage, about $2500, on top of the wp tbelt job at 1000+!!

at this point- it sounds like you need professional help,,,(people say that to me all the time..possibly for a different reason)

I mean: the help of a professional mechanic- who can tell if the wp is bad, pull a few spark plugs to examine for heat damage or wear issues--looking for coolant inside cylinders, cking for blown head gaskets is the ultimate reason

then determine if t-belt is broken by looking thru an inspection port
may have to remove a cover or 2 to get a good view of whats going on with it

If you want to test a few things at home, drain rad at bottem left (driver) corner.
add water to the rad and watch for it running out a bad hose

If that doesnt pan out with answers, Have it TOWED to the shop
IF the tbelt is broken and hasnt damaged any valves--all thats needed is to replace those parts,, and some prayer the 1 redline temp event didnt hurt the head gaskets

IF the tbelt is broken- cranking it over will cause damage!!
If engine doesnt want to crank and wp bad,,its time to use that engine as a boat anchor. Meaning getting a used engine from junkyard, aka auto recyclers and put the 105 parts-new timing belt wp etc on it and drop it in
that will cost less than just the 105 service!! and you have a fresh ready to go engine

Tip: coolant needs to be changed every 5 years or less
the OE coolant was good for 7 years (maybe) then replacement called for every 5
the additives in coolant go bad and turn acidic- in an aluminum home (remember science class?)
thats why I ask condition of rad and res bottle

 

Check your cooling fans make sure they are fully operational if u can start the car turn the AC on and both fans should come on. if one only comes on then u got a dead fan motor.

 

Okay so i had a compression test done on my car by a guy who lives on my street who happens to work at acura what a plus!

Results are that the engine is dead.
On another note he found me an engine

2003 Acura CL engine with 61,000 miles on it. Does this sound like a good idea its only 350 dollars for engine and the guy is only charging 400 to put it in.

I never heard of putting a different engine like that in but if it works im down!

 

Also is the timing belt located on the side of the engine or is inside of the engine?

 

2000 TL and 2003 CL (non Type-S) use the same engine.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_J_engine#J32A

 

Okay very nice! So then does this mean my second engine is going to be Vtec as well? im not sure if all acura uses vtec or not?

 

^yes.

 

thx!

 

It's on the side - good pics in this thread:

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-timing-belt-695821/

And speaking of the timing belt, you should have your mechanic put a new one on the CL engine you're getting. Even though it only has 61000 miles it is due for a change based on age (due at 7 yrs) especially if the CL engine has been sitting for a while.

 

I see your new thread on fuel pressure regulator
Whats up with that- the new engine running funny?

if it were my car, run a can of seafoam or bg44 thru half a tank of fuel
that will clean out the injectors, fuel pump,fuel rails etc. if they came with the engine- even if it was transferred over they will be dirty from age

did the water pump kill your engine?

 

Oh yeah i planned on doing a seafoam treatment once its put in after this weekend. I ask about fpr because my car was seeming like i really had to floor it to get the gas through? if that sounds right. Im just curious in case that issue does not go away with putting in the new engine. and okay i will have him put on new timing belt while the engine is out of the car. The shop says the engine is grade 'A' but we will see.

 

Yeah the stupid water pump was the death of my engine!

 

You stated in your orig. post that you had noticed a coolant leak. You've witnessed the catastrophic engine damage that can result.

Pay atten. to ANY leaks, esp. coolant & oil. Don't just drive it & hope it will go away. DO NOT drive w/ an overheating engine either. Get it towed if in doubt.

 

Yeah i realize this now. I had no idea that the small leak would be catostrophic. because honestly the amount of fluid that was coming out was like nothing. I didnt know it meant the water pump was done. I know now though thats for damn sure!

 

how many miles on the car at time of failure?

 

Pay atten. to ANY leaks, esp. coolant & oil. Don't just drive it & hope it will go away. DO NOT drive w/ an overheating engine either. Get it towed if in doubt.[/QUOTE]

Awesome reminder. Learned a lot reading this thread. Thanks.