DNS91

Hey guys. So I've got an 02 Type-S TL. I've modded the intake, new short shocks, lowering springs. New ngk iridium spark plugs, timing belt, power steering pump, rotors, pads, tires, wheels, spoilers, black grille, aftermarket headlights. I've put much love into this car and dont want it to fall apart because of something i missed.

About a month ago i started experiencing some heavy vibrations from the front wheels under acceleration. I thought maybe it was an allignment issue. I got an allignment - nothing changed (yes i know it was a waste of money) a friend asked if i had hub rings put on because i have XXR 527's and installed them. The vibrations while idling and just cruising went away. But while accelerating from 2-4k the car has this aggressive kind of horizontal pulling side to side vibration. And its not fun at all. The wheel nuts are tight and everything was double checked while i was replacing shocks and springs. Could it be the CV axles? theres the clunking noises when on full lock so i know there not in the best shape. I've ordered new axles front&left, and not the original ones but hey its under a 1 year warranty, heh. Anyways, if the problem doesn't go away i'm clueless as to what the hell else it could be.

I've also got a clicking noise coming from the from left wheel area. I've lifted the car and spun the wheel to check it if was something to do with the brakes but no sound. So it just happens when under pressure. I've checked for rocks stuck in the threads but nothing. Only thing i could come up with was that its coming from the bearing. Just curious to see what you guys think.

01tl4tl

that clicking and thunk you hear is the cv axle bearings
You may have hub bearing involvement by now, so ck for movement in it.

Lowering the car will add stresses to already age-worn parts = immanent failure

MarcDavidoff

Like 01tl4tl sounds like your axles are your clicking issue which would be the outer cv joint. They are also likely the shaking problem on acceleration too but more likely from the inner joint. See what happens when you change the axles

DNS91

Thanks for the quick response guys, I'm glad i ordered the axles. Hopefully the old ones will last till next weekend.

01tl4tl

minimal driving, no `on the throttle` when wheels are turned and gentle use overall.
Plus- make sure your insurance is paid up~

NEW axles = all new parts, not rebuilt, are preferred
aftermarket is fine, many like the ones from NAPA auto parts

01tl4tl

ck the rubber seals where the axles go in the trans
There may be wear from axle movement on them causing an atf leak, replace if needed.
atf leaks will kill your trans

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

I would check motor mounts, cv joints, and wheel bearings.

You can jack the car up and inspect the mounts. Use a crow bar to see if there is any play or visually inspect rubber for cracks, etc.

Check for play in wheel bearing.

I would go with OEM axles. They aren't really expensive and much better quality than the aftermarket crap. OEM will last much longer. OEM also has vibration damper some aftermarket don't have.

DNS91

Ok so i've got the axles changed along with the new seals in the tranny. The major vibrations are gone except for some minor vibrations that i can feel in my gas pedal for example while turning and accelerating. I don't know if thats because of the quality of the aftermarket axles or what. The old seals for damaged and tranny was leaking. Should i do the 3x3 tranny fluid flush or add some more? I've yet to check the dipstick which ill do tmr AM.

The clicking noise is still there exactly the same as it was before. My last hope is to change the bearings which ill hopefully be doing next week. Theres no play in the wheels as there should be when bearings are shot. the clicking noise reduces while turning left. i really don't want to be throwing money down the drain again for the bearing replacement if it wont get rid of this annoying noise. I'm tempted to make an audio recording for you guys. The sound is odd and if its the bearing i've never heard sounds like this from bearings.

01tl4tl

post your city and a local ziner will help you out with diagnosis

The front wheel bearing is a popular failure, and with severe cv axle wear and worn out oil seals, I would suspect a LOT of movement was occurring along the axle line.
Enough to carry the vibrations to the wheel hub and its bearing!

Do NOT drive until atf level is restored to midway BETWEEN the 2 dots when at book specified temp for cking, some say cold -others warm from specific drive pattern/time.

free owner book for your year, download here Acura Owners Site | Exclusive Knowledge, Service, & Benefits

Then based on fluid color and smell/known age, its probably time for at least 3 qt- 1 time drain and refill, or a full system fluid change using multi sets of gravity drain and refill (intentionally avoiding the word FLUSH for atf!)

01tl4tl

when the axle cv bearings are bad they can even shake the tires out of balance!
Go thru every system = brake calipers and the motor mounts, no rust on hub lip where wheels slide onto hub= keeping rim from sitting flat? wheels torqued properly in star pattern to 80 foot pounds?

Many things allow movement and vibration or noises that don't belong

DNS91

I've had hub rings installed for the aftermarket wheel with specific fitment for no vibrations. I checked the tranny dipstick and the actual fluid level is a little above the second marker. I know for a fact it was leaking from the seals but it must have just been a very little amount. the brakes arent the culprit here, i have lifted the car before and spun the wheel to check where the noise was coming from and there was no noises. So the noise is only when under pressure of the cars weight.

01tl4tl

ck the atf level per your owner book, then drain anything over halfway between the 2 dots
at full is OVER full once the fluid gets good and hot- normal temp

someone may have added who knows what for atf!! if the seals were leaking a long time
How long has it been your car? a few months?

Did you go thru the brake calipers and ck operation of each one? ALL the bolts for brake mounting are correct torque?
the sway bar end links ckd? all work done with axles reckd?

I don't remember where we are on this car!

DNS91

Its been about a month since i noticed the vibrations. The atf fluid is brownish so im planning on doing a drain/fill asap. brake calipers, rotors, axles are properly bolted on. Sway bar end links? have no idea, i'll have to check them out.
I'm taking my car in to the shop to get bearings replaced next week. hopefully it'll fix the noise issue.

DNS91

ok so,

new bearings installed - check
brand new cv axles - check
clicking/swooshing noise - STILL THERE

I drove home from the shop, and as i pull into a parking and with a wall to bounce of the sound straight to my ears.. I hear it again. the CLICKING NOISE, and im thinking, what the hell is making this noise its just going to kill me if i don't figure this out. Then a lightbulb moment. I've recently changed my ORIGINAL rotors (158kmiles) to slotted rotors.


I've read many complaining forum posts and pages regarding this and I've come to the conclusion that it's the slotted rotors that are making the noise. And 'm not changing my mind, lol. And yes, the bearing replacement was pretty much for nothing.

Also, recently i've gotten the opportunity to run over a gigantic possum corpse while going aout 60mph and without being able to change lanes because of cars nearby i tragically ended up ramming into the possum, and mind you my car is lowered so i litterally felt the car jump up from the possum corpse and what happens 2 seconds later? CEL light. goddamn CEL light. I've checked everything, bumper intact and underneath everythings okay, except for some blood and hairs ganging everywhere. I ran the codes - O2 sensor. It wasn't the main one before the cat its the secondary one on the exhaust. Does the secondary 02 sensor influence fuel use? If so how much? and i still get ocassional CEL lights if in heavy rain.

Still need to drain/fill tranny. Thinking about changing the external filter also. and a much needed wheel allignment and should be good to go.

Skirmich

The rotors should not make a clicking noise. They should sound like a Turbo Whistle but a "CLICK" is very different from a "WOOSH"... You should check your rotor work to see if the brake pad hardware isn't actually contacting the rotor. I've had all kinds of Dimpled/Slotted rotors and never heard a click from any of them.


The 02 sensor might have been tangled with the body and ripped off.. Both 02 sensors are critical for proper ignition mixture, luckily the secondary is often the cheaper one.

brian6speed

iTrader: (5)

Where is the ticking coming from? Maybe you just hear purge control solenoid under the hood. Mine has ticked loudly before and I replaced it.

DNS91

Brake pads? I'll have to check the whole brake system tmr.

Skirmich

^ Nice wheel fitment!!!


About sound, that does sound like the brake hardware scrapping the rotor.. I had that issue before, Its the little hardware between the brake pad and the caliper bracket.



Those suckers have a little metal edge that clamps into the inside of the caliper bracket, if the edges don't seat properly they will scratch the rotor making that sound.

01tl4tl

are the rotors mounted correctly- so the <------- arrow is pointed forward on the car? or may be marked L and R for which side.
stranger things have happened

01acls

op, look at the wheel weights to see if they're hitting the calipers? That will make a clicking sound. If it have been, the weights will have marks on them.