So I have went through 3 sets of wheels and tires, had an alignment several times. Everything is in the green but for some reason the car pulls to the right and the steering wheel shakes at around 60 to 70. I have checked everything to my knowledge and nothing seems to be loose or broken on the suspension. Is there something that I'm missing or something I should double check?

 

Are they custom wheels/rims? You might need to install hub bearings specific to your rims for the exact fit on the hub. I had the same problem until i installed them.

 

Have you checked for a seized up brake caliper or a bad wheel bearing on the right front?

The steering wheel shake at higher speeds may be a wheel balance issue or a badly warped rotor, which may be linked to a seized up caliper.

 

Yes they are custom 19×9.5 rohanas. It has done this through stock wheels enkei and The rohanas. The brakes are also brand new. Rotors calipers pads and lines.

 

Were all the recent alignments done at the same shop? How far apart? It's possible that the alignment machine was out of calibration.

What kind of condition are the radius rod bushings in? Is there a loose or broken radius rod?

 

It's been the same way for over a year with 3 alignments several months apart all at different locations. I would need to check again but 2 months ago they were tight and looked fine.

 

look at wheel hub bearings, and the normal parts like control arm bushings

What suspension are you running? Is it slammed on 19s?
lowering the car puts different angles on steering and suspension parts- that can cause binding

reminder for all- When new calipers- lines etc have been installed . ie: brake lines were open = air gets sucked into the ABS system
After installation do the regular bleed- TL special order is driver front then clockwise around the car - LF RF RR LR its important it be done that way only!

Then go do 2 ABS active stops- that's brake pedal shaking rapidly under your feet- pressing on pedal as though your life depended on it!!
From 45 mph to full stop. Accelerate and repeat ABS active stop from 45mph to stopped.
If the 2nd time had firmer, better pedal = there was air hiding in the ABS- this is from the shop manual so its not bs! mandatory procedure when lines or system is opened for repairs

That ABS test has moved the air into regular brake system - just re-bleed LF RF RR LR again. there will be some bubbles!
NOW you have completed the brake upgrade job!

Rims Measure the center hub of rotor and the opening of the rim center hole
Enkeis and many others require a centering spacer to put the rim on center with the hub

 

The supension is all stock. Stock height and the brakes where insalled properly. I'll double check everything tonight and update tomorrow.

 

Have an alignment shop check to see if the subframe is straight. Have you ever had a transmission replaced? Its possible that it/engine/transmission isnt in the vehicle exactly straight.

 

Yes the transmission was replaced. I will definitely check that. Thank you!

 

Have the car been in an accident? Maybe the unibody is bent/dog tracking. That would wear tires and pull to one side.

Vibrations can be from misalignment of trans to engine; maybe worn cv joints or out of balance drive shalfs.

I would suggest you put back stock wheels until you fine the problem if possible.