Ok, so I posted a while back about tranny problems on my '01 TL. Got the trans replaced for free under warranty, and the advice on this forum was very helpful. Now I have a new problem-

After not driving her for a couple weeks, I hopped in and started idling down the road. I tried pressing the gas, and the pedal wouldn't move. I idled back into the driveway, and patted the gas a few times and it freed up. So off I went. I noticed some funky shifting, so I put it in neutral, and to my dismay, the rpm's were jumping from idle to 2500 back to idle constantly. Got back to the house just as the CEL/TCS lights came on. Popped the hood with the engine OFF, removed the cover, and manually actuated the throttle body. It had the same unwillingness to open, and with increasing pressure, it freed up again. I started the engine, and it Idled fine. I worked the TB manually, and once it left idle, it started revving up and down again.

The inside of the throttle body appears clean, as do the cables.

I'm thinking something in the Throttle Position Sensor broke (where the TB rod attaches), but I'm not sure if that's logical, as I don't know the inner workings of the TPS.

I know there are many possible causes of the swinging idle, but the fact that it happened exactly when the pedal stuck makes me think the TPS is the culprit.

I haven't had the codes read, as I don't wanna drive it the way it is, plus I think a bad TPS might not show a TPS error, but would instead show up as an O2 problem from the bad fuel/air mixture.

The code resets with removal of negative cable, and comes back on (CEL, but not TCS) after 20-30 seconds of up/down idle.

Any ideas?

 

The TPS can trigger a code. Usually "TPS out of range" or "TPS voltage higher/lower than expected", and I believe there are some others. It sounds like the TPS is jammed inside, unfortunately the TPS is part of the throttle body and you'll have to purchase the entire throttle body to get it. I've seen TPS's being sold on ebay claiming they will work for the TL with a little bit of work but I'm not aware of anybody trying it out. Otherwise, you may have to find one at a wrecking yard, Acura dealer, or Acura dealer online (usually cheaper than your local dealer).

 

Yeah, I've seen some procedures for swapping just the TPS, but they look kinda touch and go. I've seen some new TBs w/TPS on ebay for around $150. Used for as little as $30. I think I'll go with the used, since it was manufactured and set by Acura. Looking for one locally now, as I don't wanna wait for one to be shipped. Thanks for the input

 

Take the tubing back off and clean the TB. If its sticking thats most likely the issue. It doesnt hurt to try to clean every thing up. Lube the cables while there. Also clean the IACV

 

I think I'll try to clean the IACV first. I saw a video post of a car doing the exact same thing, and most of the respondents say they had a car doing it, and a clean/new IACV fixed it right up. Anyone know how to do this?

 

Cleaned my IACV. It took about 30 minutes. I didn't have to remove the TB; it would've been easier, but I was trying to get it done quickly, so with the use of a Phillips Head Bit and a 1/4" wrench, I managed to remove it from under the TB.

One thing I did NOT expect was coolant to spill out of the IACV. That line that I thought was a vacuum line is actually a coolant line. Why? I have no clue. I DO know that if the IACV gasket goes bad, you can end up with coolant entering with the combustion air.

I also found out that the same valve is used on Pilots, Odysseys, and 98-02 accords. Advance Auto Parts and Auto Zone carry them for around $90.

Anyway, thanks for the help. She's purring like a kitten now. I put in a can of B-12 also, and I ordered a K&N filter that I'm going to install tomorrow. I'll Repost and let ya'll know how it runs.

 

Coolant goes through all throttle bodies to keep them from freezing for the winter months.