squeeky soundd
review the brake diys, you cleaned and lubed the slider plates where the pads end tabs clip in?
and the main slider pins for the caliper lubed
Torque on bolts is correct--not blasted on way too tight?
did you adjust the park brakes after new rear rotor install?
what brand parts? are they ready to be bedded in yet?
(some need 500 miles normal use before bedding procedure)
lubed pedal pivot inside car?
ever flush the brake fluid,,not doing that leads to caliper problems
and the main slider pins for the caliper lubed
Torque on bolts is correct--not blasted on way too tight?
did you adjust the park brakes after new rear rotor install?
what brand parts? are they ready to be bedded in yet?
(some need 500 miles normal use before bedding procedure)
lubed pedal pivot inside car?
ever flush the brake fluid,,not doing that leads to caliper problems
hey what is DIYS? Actually these Rotors and Brake Pads are recently purchase so I just take them off and put them straight on, I don't have the torque wrench so I just make sure they all pretty tight. I also Bedded the brake and flush the brake fluid and also how do you lubed the pedal pivot?
did you clean the new rotors with brake cleaner before installation?
they have an oily protective coating so they dont rust during shipping and storage
Left on it will cause problems as it gets heated
DIY means Do It Yourself instruction section
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/new-official-2nd-gen-tl-diy-thread-706083/ click that for direct link
torque on calipers and brackets is important --super tight is way too tight
you can buy or borrow one from parts stores
brake fluid flush- you did the special TL order = LF is driver front, then clockwise around the car from driver viewpoint? LF RF RR LR
Got all new clean clear fluid out,,a few fills of the master cyl resivour per wheel is the minimum needed for a good job,,
used over 1 qt,,1.5 qts fluid ? means you did a great job!!
the rear brakes- loosened park brake shoes, adjuster cleaned and lubed-
install new rotor and tighten park brake adjuster until slight drag felt as rotor turned by hand, or tighten till wheel stops/wont move by hand, and back adjuster off 6 clicks
NOTE TO ALL
there is a problem with several brands of rear pad
the inner pad should have a raised tab on the back where the noise maker/low pad warning device attaches
there may be another tab at opposite end- thats fine, it does nothing for us
IF however- there is a 3rd- top center- raised tab- you have the wrong pads!!!
those fit an RL not TL, because the parts books are wrong
What happens is the middle tab makes contact with the caliper piston when you apply the brakes
that pushes the pad out crooked and only half the pad contacts the rotor
weak braking, noises, funny brake feel
You can do a quick visual for this prob by looking at inner side of rear rotor
If its half shiny from useage and half rusty from not use,,guess what!
they have an oily protective coating so they dont rust during shipping and storage
Left on it will cause problems as it gets heated
DIY means Do It Yourself instruction section
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/new-official-2nd-gen-tl-diy-thread-706083/ click that for direct link
torque on calipers and brackets is important --super tight is way too tight
you can buy or borrow one from parts stores
brake fluid flush- you did the special TL order = LF is driver front, then clockwise around the car from driver viewpoint? LF RF RR LR
Got all new clean clear fluid out,,a few fills of the master cyl resivour per wheel is the minimum needed for a good job,,
used over 1 qt,,1.5 qts fluid ? means you did a great job!!
the rear brakes- loosened park brake shoes, adjuster cleaned and lubed-
install new rotor and tighten park brake adjuster until slight drag felt as rotor turned by hand, or tighten till wheel stops/wont move by hand, and back adjuster off 6 clicks
NOTE TO ALL
there is a problem with several brands of rear pad
the inner pad should have a raised tab on the back where the noise maker/low pad warning device attaches
there may be another tab at opposite end- thats fine, it does nothing for us
IF however- there is a 3rd- top center- raised tab- you have the wrong pads!!!
those fit an RL not TL, because the parts books are wrong
What happens is the middle tab makes contact with the caliper piston when you apply the brakes
that pushes the pad out crooked and only half the pad contacts the rotor
weak braking, noises, funny brake feel
You can do a quick visual for this prob by looking at inner side of rear rotor
If its half shiny from useage and half rusty from not use,,guess what!
Last edited by 01tl4tl; Dec 12, 2011 at 05:24 PM.
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