Spark plug removed and then put back in...
05-18-2010, 04:08 PM
#1
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: San Fernando Valley (Los Angeles, CA)
Age: 41
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Spark plug removed and then put back in...
2002 TL-Type S
104,000 miles
3rd AT both under recall warranty luckily!
About a week in a half ago I was at the in-laws and pops decided to show me how simple spark-plug changing was. I later found out that he was very familiar with older VW engines and knew a little about older Hondas. He removed the middle plug closer to the headlights (not sure what # that is). He then replaced it. He torqed it by hand and told me to always make sure and not tighten it too much. Later that night when we heading home, i started the car and it didnt sound quite right. As i drove away from the house the power of the car was down and it was making sounds like it was bogging out almost. I turned back and after going under the hood i found that one of the connectors (I think it is called the coil) was not completely connected to the engine. Obviously this meant that the car was driving on 5 cylinders and that was the cause of the power loss... For the next week the check engine light was on and finally shut itself off. during that time the engine didnt sound right and there were some clicking noises. When I noticed the engine light had turned off, i also noticed that the engine sounded as good as it did before the Spark plug was removed and then put back in (same plug). Was all of that most likely the engine just needing that week to reset itself after the plug and then running on 5 cylindars for maybe 1/4 of a mile. Are there any problems that i should look for that could result from all of this? I do intend on replacing all 6 plugs within the week.
Also, about a month ago i replaced the timing belt
and the water pump (my mechanic, not me). Since then my P/S has been really stiff at times and I just noticed that it has started the moaning, and for once this is a moaning that im not enjoying. Would a simple drain and fill be a good idea on the P/S or should I have it checked out?
Thanks for all of your feedback and help.
104,000 miles
3rd AT both under recall warranty luckily!
About a week in a half ago I was at the in-laws and pops decided to show me how simple spark-plug changing was. I later found out that he was very familiar with older VW engines and knew a little about older Hondas. He removed the middle plug closer to the headlights (not sure what # that is). He then replaced it. He torqed it by hand and told me to always make sure and not tighten it too much. Later that night when we heading home, i started the car and it didnt sound quite right. As i drove away from the house the power of the car was down and it was making sounds like it was bogging out almost. I turned back and after going under the hood i found that one of the connectors (I think it is called the coil) was not completely connected to the engine. Obviously this meant that the car was driving on 5 cylinders and that was the cause of the power loss... For the next week the check engine light was on and finally shut itself off. during that time the engine didnt sound right and there were some clicking noises. When I noticed the engine light had turned off, i also noticed that the engine sounded as good as it did before the Spark plug was removed and then put back in (same plug). Was all of that most likely the engine just needing that week to reset itself after the plug and then running on 5 cylindars for maybe 1/4 of a mile. Are there any problems that i should look for that could result from all of this? I do intend on replacing all 6 plugs within the week.
Also, about a month ago i replaced the timing belt
and the water pump (my mechanic, not me). Since then my P/S has been really stiff at times and I just noticed that it has started the moaning, and for once this is a moaning that im not enjoying. Would a simple drain and fill be a good idea on the P/S or should I have it checked out? Thanks for all of your feedback and help.
05-18-2010, 05:47 PM
#2
2003 TL-S w/Navi NBP
Yeah, the ECU probably had to cycle through and fix itself again after the misfiring. For future reference, you can reset the ECU by pulling the clock fuse from the passenger side fuse box, or pull the negative battery cable off; in both cases, wait about 30 seconds before reconnecting.
Bad news on the P/S pump. A common problem on these cars is improper retightening (read overtightening) of the P/S pulley after a timing belt job. For whatever reason, these P/S pulleys are very sensitive to overtightening, and the bearings are ruined if it happens. I think Acura dealerships are aware enough to do it right, but general, non-specialty shops don't know, so often overtighten. I would take it back to your mechanic and tell him of the problem and how it is a common mishap with these cars...and that he should replace it for free
Bad news on the P/S pump. A common problem on these cars is improper retightening (read overtightening) of the P/S pulley after a timing belt job. For whatever reason, these P/S pulleys are very sensitive to overtightening, and the bearings are ruined if it happens. I think Acura dealerships are aware enough to do it right, but general, non-specialty shops don't know, so often overtighten. I would take it back to your mechanic and tell him of the problem and how it is a common mishap with these cars...and that he should replace it for free
05-19-2010, 02:48 PM
#3
The engine light went out, that is a good sign. You fixed the problem with the loosing coil, no more misfiring. The code is still there, you just have to reset the ecu.
For the P/S, your ps is toast, it will need to be replaced or rebuilt. most mechanics will introduce this problem to owner when they touch the ps belt tension. The way the ps was designed, one must know how to adjust properly.
One thing to keep in mind and you will not have problem, you dont check tension before tightening the ps. You check tension after tightening the ps. Unfortunate, no mechanics cares to check.
It happened to me, I was very careful when I removed the ps belt and put it back, as I read many people had ps problem after re-tensioning the belt, but I fixed it at that second. I know exactly why and 99% it would damage you ps if it was done by a mechanic. No mechanic cares about your car, period; unless you are doing it for yourself. Take one example, if the book said 5qrts of oil for oil change. they will drain oil, and put in 5qrts, replace the cap, and that is done. they don't even care or need to pull the dipstick. That's how it is. To me, either private or dealerships, all the same.
I wrote one thread about this problem and how to adjust your ps belt properly.
For the P/S, your ps is toast, it will need to be replaced or rebuilt. most mechanics will introduce this problem to owner when they touch the ps belt tension. The way the ps was designed, one must know how to adjust properly.
One thing to keep in mind and you will not have problem, you dont check tension before tightening the ps. You check tension after tightening the ps. Unfortunate, no mechanics cares to check.
It happened to me, I was very careful when I removed the ps belt and put it back, as I read many people had ps problem after re-tensioning the belt, but I fixed it at that second. I know exactly why and 99% it would damage you ps if it was done by a mechanic. No mechanic cares about your car, period; unless you are doing it for yourself. Take one example, if the book said 5qrts of oil for oil change. they will drain oil, and put in 5qrts, replace the cap, and that is done. they don't even care or need to pull the dipstick. That's how it is. To me, either private or dealerships, all the same.
I wrote one thread about this problem and how to adjust your ps belt properly.
05-19-2010, 05:33 PM
#4
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: San Fernando Valley (Los Angeles, CA)
Age: 41
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
All your responses are really appreciated! Fortunately for me my family has known and been going to this mechanic for 15 years, so I dont forsee too many problems approaching him with all of this. I am going to bring in all your advice and show him so he will hopefully better understand what needs to be done. Unfortunately I stopped going to my Honda Specialist cause he charged me a few hundred $$ for some transmission work that was completely unnecesary as i took it to the dealership afterwords and they replaced it under warranty and told me that the work that was done to it wasnt even the correct work in the 1st place. they said it sounded like someone was trying to make a buck.
That was the 3rd transmission that my car has had (and still has). I trust this current mechanics honesty, but i know he doesnt know my TL like the other guy.
That was the 3rd transmission that my car has had (and still has). I trust this current mechanics honesty, but i know he doesnt know my TL like the other guy.
05-19-2010, 07:35 PM
#5
tell dad the only plugs to run are ngk iridium ix
or ngk platinum also approved if thats all store has (those were the stock plug- irids are better)
do NOT USE bosch or alpo or whatever is a buck at the zone
just fyi: cylinder numbering looking at engine from front bumper- rear bank left to right 123
front bank 456
as you learned the TL is picky about certain things- this is one
or ngk platinum also approved if thats all store has (those were the stock plug- irids are better)
do NOT USE bosch or alpo or whatever is a buck at the zone
just fyi: cylinder numbering looking at engine from front bumper- rear bank left to right 123
front bank 456
as you learned the TL is picky about certain things- this is one
05-20-2010, 02:45 PM
#6
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: San Fernando Valley (Los Angeles, CA)
Age: 41
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im glad you mentioned that about the plugs. I was at Kragen the yesturday and was about to grab the plugs, but they were out of NGKs and i had seen those mentioned a lot on this site so i decided to wait. Now i know to make sure and only buy those. Thanks!!
05-20-2010, 08:03 PM
#7
seafoam in the gas and/or intake vac port at TB, plus clean the TB air plate are good things to do before plug change
A clean piston aids combustion, clean intake valves and fuel injectors flow better.
Lube the throttle cable assembly while you have the top engine plastic cover off
A clean piston aids combustion, clean intake valves and fuel injectors flow better.
Lube the throttle cable assembly while you have the top engine plastic cover off
Trending Topics
05-21-2010, 10:34 AM
#8
05-21-2010, 12:11 PM
#9
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Sacramento, California
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...3435&ppt=C0334
i remember someone said that they come gapped... but chekc them just in case
i remember someone said that they come gapped... but chekc them just in case
05-24-2010, 01:08 PM
#13
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: San Fernando Valley (Los Angeles, CA)
Age: 41
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Latest update to original p/s problem: I dropped my TL at my mechanics this morning and he is going to check out the p/s and fix it no matter what the problem is up to replacing it if necessary. He told me when i got there that he had already made the calls and was ready to do whatever is necessary to bring back my power steering (at no charge). I started to get used to driving with little to no power steering and was enjoying the actual feel of the car (as long as i NEVER have to parallel park). Thank you again for all of your suggestions and help. And in case you are wondering, yes, i did bring a printed copy of this thread to show him and he was very open to re-checking his work based on what has been said.
05-24-2010, 07:11 PM
#14
rcb-
there are 2 different plugs- type S cars use a step colder heat range
Ask at the parts store- they will know which you need
there are 2 different plugs- type S cars use a step colder heat range
Ask at the parts store- they will know which you need
05-25-2010, 06:13 PM
#15
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: San Fernando Valley (Los Angeles, CA)
Age: 41
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cars back and running great! My mechanic switched out the P/S pump for a new after market one. He also replaced the Spark Plugs and Changed the black blood for me. i can notice a difference in the way the car is running (for the better) and the p/s is working perfect now. The only complaint that i have is the noise that the new pump makes. Its a little whiney, but I can deal with that. Also, in case anyone is wondering about his response after all was said and done in regards to giving him a printed copy of this whole thread.... He said to me "You know, you were right, I did over tighten it" ['improper retightening (read overtightening) of the P/S pulley after a timing belt job.] *jdjohn84.
He did not charge me anything for the pump. As far as the plugs, he used the same ones that Acura puts in there when the car leaves the lot. The total for the plugs and the oil was 130.00.
He did not charge me anything for the pump. As far as the plugs, he used the same ones that Acura puts in there when the car leaves the lot. The total for the plugs and the oil was 130.00.
05-26-2010, 09:46 AM
#16
so the new pump still isnt adjusted right -its making noise
go back and get it fixed
And he used the older style platinum plug- thats fine, many of us use iridium as its a better plug and comes stock on gen3,,so we can use it too
go back and get it fixed
And he used the older style platinum plug- thats fine, many of us use iridium as its a better plug and comes stock on gen3,,so we can use it too
05-26-2010, 11:48 AM
#17
2003 TL-S w/Navi NBP
It really shouldn't make noise. Check the fluid level first to make sure it's not low. Now, if you're turning the wheel while at a stand-still, a little noise is to be expected; actually, the wheel shouldn't be turned like that unless totally unavoidable. But if it is routinely making noise under normal steering conditions, that is not right.
05-26-2010, 11:59 AM
#18
2003 TL-S w/Navi NBP
According to the service manual, a belt tension gauge should read between 88-121 lbf. Using the deflection method (pushing the belt and measuring play), it should move between 0.51-0.65 in. from the middle.
05-26-2010, 02:33 PM
#19
make sure the system is burped correctly- place cardboard under front wheels- to reduce friction
start car and turn wheel all the way to full lock one way- then to the other
repeat a few times, watching fluid in res and its level
start car and turn wheel all the way to full lock one way- then to the other
repeat a few times, watching fluid in res and its level
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
