LowMiles_BlueTL

I am well aware that the 2003 Acura TL had a crappy transmission. The problem I have is that it takes about a second for the shift from 2nd to 3rd. That is all. No slipping out of 3rd once it is in gear, no problems with other gears, cruises in 5th at 80 no problem. If I am pushing the pedal hard and don't let up for that shift, it will sound like it is in neutral and I have to move to manual mode and downshift to 2nd or upshift to 4th (depending on current speed). It has been like this for two years (since 89K, now 115K) and has gotten a little worse in the last few days (from about 10% of 2-3 shifts to about 30% 2-3 shifts, doesn't happens every time). I have in the past:

• changed the fluid (about 10K on this fluid)
• changed the filter
• cleaned the shift solenoid screens

This all works for a while, but then it starts to act up again. Could this be a slow/sticky shift solenoid? I'm going to be changing jobs in the next six months (and drastically increasing my pay), and I was hoping to just get my transmission to last another six months so I can buy a new transmission.

One note: if I manual shift it and do the 2nd-3rd shift a little later than the auto would do the shift, it works fine. This makes me think it is a problem with the solenoid getting old and needed just a little more electricity (the engine is revving higher so more electricity to the solenoids).

Thanks!

jazfe

This is no help at the moment but after I finish the paint on my car I will troubleshoot the issue and report my findings. I have the exact same issue with my car. I'm leaning towards the electrical issue too because once the car is in 3rd gear it doesn't slip at all and all other gears are perfect.

jazfe

Just came from the garage and sad news..I removed the transmission from the car because the rear main seal is leaking and leaving spots in my driveway..........can't stand a leaking car.
Anyway, I pulled the end cap and the the third clutch pack from the transmission. All five clutch discs are stripped bare of clutch material................just metal to metal. I have no idea how third gear ever engaged in this car.
So now I have a total rebuild to do if for no other reason, to clean all of the old clutch lining out. I'm going to add the TransLab shift kit while I'm at it. This will be my fifth Honda/Acura trans rebuild. My son is still driving his TL after a year. My daughter has had her Honda for three years now. Sold two others and have a spare 4 cylinder tranny on the rack in the garage waiting for a car.
If this TL were not 15 years old I would install a 06 or 07 AV6 but if I get another 50k out of the rebuild I'll be happy.

jazfe

For LowMiles_BlueTL,
My tl is low mileage at 116k also.
I believe the pause you are seeing in the shift to 3rd gear is the time it takes for the extra fluid to get in to the clutch pack to make up for the missing clutch material.

mlevenha

Hi, I know this was a long time ago. My mom is having poor shifting into 3rd gear in her 03 TL. It was having issues with slow shifts into every gear until I cleaned the solenoid screen which was plugged. It got better, but it got worse again apparently. I did the 3 drain and fills, and the fluid was very black. It drives great, aside from the revving before going into 3rd gear. However, there was very little metal on the drain plug magnet. When your 3rd gear clutch pack was obliterated, was there a lot of material on the magnet? I mean it was actually very very little. It has 170k miles on it now, I believe the fluid was original. It has the recall jet kit on it...

DP01TL

The only things that have an effect on the shifting speed that you have any control over are the pressure switches and the solenoids (shift and linear pressure).

If the pressure sswitches are not functioning properly they WILL affect the "feel" of the shift. I had a defective 3rd gear shift switch and it would VERY quickly shift into third. Not harsh, but you really noticed it. When I swapped the solenoid out to a "good" one (I bought a OEM Honda switch and tested it before installing it) it would be a slow shift. Not 100% a "slip" but it was nowhere near a solid engagement. It would reason that those switches can fail in multiple ways, so the best would be to test the switch you have or buy a new one. To test it you need a multimeter with a "continuity" setting (they usually have a buzzer that goes off when there IS continuity), and a way to generate pressure (I have a vacuum/pressure hand-pump kit that I bought from Harbor Freight that works great). You basically put pressure into the switch and determine when it closes with the continuity tester. The 3rd gear switch (black) should be 33psi and the 4th gear switch (brown, grey or white as they changed the part numbers) should be 27psi or 28psi (white is 28psi, 27psi for the others). If they work than the switches are good and you don't need to replace them.

Now, if the shift solenoid screens have debris it would cause slow shifting as well as the screens in the linear solenoids. All three of the linear solenoids are used for shifting the transmission with the single one being used to hold the converter clutch as well. There are 5 screens total on the linear solenoids to clean and be sure there is no debris on them, with 4 being screens on small tubes and the last being a screen on the inlet to the single linear solenoid.

If all the switch screens and solenoid screens are clean and the switches test fine for the given PSI they are set to and you are getting a "flare" or "slippage" than that indicates the internals are a problem and a replacement/rebuild is in your future.

Until you clean all the screens again and test the switches, than the only thing the ECM can track is the actuation of the solenoids (based on feedback) and the electrical properties, and you would get codes if those things are "seen" by the ECM.

Good luck... I am finally done dealing with the transmission on mine... I ended up doing a BAYA swap to end my issues.

DP01TL

Also I want to correct the previous post... Since this wacky forum won't allow edits, which is just insanity....

In regards to the switches:

White is 26psi.
Brown/Grey is 27psi
Black is 33psi

Those are the pressures at which the switches have continuity from the pin to the case.

Honda/Acura changed from 27psi to 26psi and superseded all the part numbers to the 26psi part. Those pressures determine when the ECM changes the linear solenoid settings, so they affect the "feel" of the shift for 3rd and 4th gear.

Kinda amazing how only the gear slection switch, the pressure switches for 3rd and 4th gear, mainshaft and countershaft speed sensors, the engine rpms and axle ABS tone rings it knows what gear it is in and what solenoids to actuate to make shifts. I mean there are absoloutly NO other pressure transducers or other feedback mechanisms for it to determine diagnostics for the automatic transmission. I guess that makes it less "error-prone" but for diagnostics there is no way to know what problem there may be internally.

No wonder you can do manual shifting via SportShift, since the computer manual shifts it as well. Just while in SportShift it increases the internal pressures to make shift engagement totally solid, not smooth like in full auto mode.

Jon M

Mievenha, In order to remove the contamination in the fluid you will need to do multiple fluid changes, not only is the contamination in the transmission itself it is in the torque converter, much of the contamination is probably from the torque converter, The original problems are due to fluid flow problem and the heat generated because of it, this causes the torque converter to breakdown as well as the 3rd gear clutch pack. I found the clutch plate in the 3rd clutch pack did not even get worn and it was dry fluid was not reaching the plate. When you do the drain and fills you need to drive the car in between to circulate the fluid, hopefully capturing the contamination in order for it be drained out. If it doesn't improve try find a shop that does pressure flush of the system. This can clear up the internal contamination or cause a blockage. Some people swear by it some condemn the procedure. Some material is metal but the clutch material is fibrous and isn't magnetic.

mlevenha

Hi Jon, thanks for replying. I did drive a few minutes between the 3 drain and fills. The fluid that came out was very dark each time, not really an appreciable difference in color between the first and the last. It didn't smell what I would call "burnt". That's a good point you make about the clutch material being non-magnetic. I had assumed it was partly metallic and would cause buildup on the magnet as it deteriorated. I think I'll take a look at the other screens and see if there is any other smoking gun before telling Mom it's time to give up hope. What sucks is I sold her the car several years ago! So I have to feel at least a little bad.

mlevenha

Could you tell me which sensors and solenoids are which in this diagram, which have cleanable screens, and which are likely to cause my issue?

https://www.oemacuraparts.com/v-2003...ensor-solenoid

The only 3 screens I cleaned were the 3 in the tubes labeled #4 in the diagram. I didn't clean the one labeled #3, I didn't see it in there for some reason.

Thanks again

DP01TL

Sure, the one you are looking for is labeled #5 and is behind the linear solenoid labeled #7.

It is in the lower passage in the middle. You will need a pick or a pair of needle nose pliers to get it out as it is not exposed like the upper ones (#4).

In regards to #3, there is no screen on it. It is only on the smaller tubes. And #5 is not interchangeable with the #4 tubes, it is a different length.

Good luck...

As far as labeling:

#7 is Linear Solenoid C (it is used for general shifting, but also functions as the torque converter clutch pressure control as well)
#6 is Linear Solenoid A & B (general shifting)
#11 is the Brown Connector Shift Solenoids (lower front is Shift Solenoid C, front on top is Shift Solenoid B)
#10 is the Black Connector Shift Solenoids (upper front is Shift Solenoid A, back on top is Torque Clutch Converter Shift Solenoid)
Note: You MUST pull the starter to get Shift Solenoid A removed. Not that big of a deal, just be sure to disconnect the battery first.

And for reference:

#15 on the front is the Mainshaft Speed Sensor
#15 on the top is the Countershaft Speed Sensor
#12 is the 4th Gear Pressure Switch (Brown/Grey, 27psi or White, 26psi)
#13 is the 3rd Gear Pressure Switch (Black, 33psi)
#14 is the ATF Temperature Sensor

mlevenha

I finally made it down to mom's house to take another look at the Acura. Pulled linear solenoid C and the screen contained in it was packed full of debris. Very thick. Sprayed it out with brake cleaner and she said it seems fixed so far. The tube underneath it was clean. So hoping it stays fixed this time. Thanks for your help