I haven't worked on the TL for a while, and monday this shit happens. At first it was just an idle issue, then it starts getting worse and now when I'm driving, the car will shake if I'm not giving it enough gas. Even on the hwy this happens.

I don't think it's the IACV because even when I'm driving this happens. My brother said the timing may have jumped or something?

Here's a vid

 

you can try to clean the iac and see if that helps i had a iac clogg up and it would bogg down on the high way i took it off cleaned it with carb cleaner and banged and tapped it a couple times and put it back on. ran good again if that dont work ya should try checking sensors and etc clean you egr valve n what ever pertaining to your vac system

 

if it jumped timeing it would act all retarded. maybe ya should check the timing marks on the cam gear and crank pulley to see if it lines up

 

lovely...

 

Its not your timing. Its either a IACV issue or a TPS issue. I would check and clean the IACV .

 

If you have a scanner that will poll the live data PID's, that will help you huge.

Check the TPS % value first, if that's bouncing everywhere and you're not touching it, I'm pretty sure that's the problem, if it's steady where it should be, look at the IAC voltage.

Even my crap Actron scanner taps all those values... hopefully you have access to one, it will really help you save alot of part throwing.

 

Thanks for the advice guys. That's what I was ultimately thinking but was expecting the worst.

I have a spare IM and TB laying around from my other engine, I'll try swapping those over to see if that makes any difference.

I have a scan tool (no codes pertaining to this issue) but it's one that my brother gave me as he upgraded his. I don't think it has live data but it has freeze frame or something like that.

This gives me a chance to give my Yukon some TLC, I found a bird's nest in the engine bay, I haven't driven it since January lol (winter beater)

 

pull apart the TB for IACV cleaning
while symptoms are extreme,,its also been winter gas~ maybe not driven much?
or short trips if driven at all

amazing how much carbon gets in the small air slit that is the iacv
also its chamber clogs up and rod cant rotate smoothly to keep idle steady

may as well start with the easy things before money items
have you done the egr cleaning on this manifold?

 

Mine did the same, but wondering what did you do before this happen? Also check for vacuum leak.

I cleaned the IACV then idle much better and the rotation shaft is much smoother.

 

Wow, it's been a while. I've been quite busy with work, graduation and being sick.

However, I'll report my progress.

No Tom, my Yukon is the winter vehicle not driven much (well it's my DD now until I fix this issue). The TL had been my DD since January so it definitely has fresh gas and I've even ran seafoam in the tank.

I have a spare IM and TB assembly, however I replaced just the TB (as the EGR was nasty on the spare.) and I even replaced the IAC. Started the car up and it was only doing the rev bouncing, that's progress but it still wasn't idling. I didn't have time to work on it anymore that day so I left it. Yesterday I went back and started it up and it started sputtering and revving to the sky again. DAMMIT! But being sick, I didn't feel much like troubleshooting and I needed to go home and sleep off this sinus infection.

I didn't do anything to the car prior to this happening. Just started happening and continued to get worse. I haven't checked for a vacuum leak quite yet, but as I've stated earlier, I've swapped throttle bodies (cleaned the shit out of it before I put it on and placed a brand new IAC on it.

Any more ideas besides vacuum leaks? Thanks a lot guys!

 

what is the code?

 

no codes

 

Damn.. so it was fine before until one day just like that?

 

Yes sir

 

No other suggestions?

 

Just a though, but did you check for coolant? as coolant affect idle as it pass through the IACV and other sensors.

 

Didn't have time to turn any wrenches but I figured I'd share a video of unplugging the tps iacv and map sensors. Does this help at all?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HaPE...e_gdata_player

 

^the video is private

 

mine started doing the same thing the other day...it happened after i cleaned the upper intake...i didnt remove it, just cleaned up the oil and sprayed some carb cleaner...cleaned the a few spots in the engine bay with a cleaner, drove around and nothing....the next day i had the same rev issuse, and as i was driving and got check engine and tcs lights...i went my buddys shop scaned the car and got a torque convertor code, he cleared i drove around and nothing rev seemed to clear its self but it the code again later that day, and still had a rev but not as bad

now i'm not sure if i got a sensor with the cleaner or what but i took everything apart and started cleaning all connections with an electrical cleaner, i'm doing a flush on the trans, fluid smells burnt even though i changed 4qt recently, i'm still in the process but i'm praying it works, i'm in the process of looking for a new place and a trans would kill me, but at least my new place will have a good looking 4k lbs lawn ornament

 

ooops, sorry bout that, I guess my phone defaults to private.

Notice how when I unplug the IACV, the sound of the sputtering changes. That's a brand new IACV and it's doing that, could there be a wiring problem that kills the IACV?

 

Hope you get it fixed, but I for one am sure that it's not the torque converter on my car

 

Got an update. I took it to a mechanic that's really good at finding problems to things like this. He shook the engine wiring harness and the surge went away and shook it again and it came back. There's a loose/faulty wire somewhere and we'll either repair that or replace the harness.

 

Updates on this shit.

Back in early August, the mechanic didn't really pull through, he was taking too long and since I was quitting my job and going to graduate school I would have more time to do this myself. Well my brother and I went ahead and replaced the power steering pump and rack because they were leaking anyway. We finished working on it and the car ran. It's been running fine since August 15th or so until today. The fucker started that 4-5k RPM crap and it was pretty embarrassing. Needless to say I kept the wiring harness I bought back in July just in case this did happen. I only have enough daylight to remove the old harness and here's what I got.

Decided to snap a picture right after pulling the intake manifold (the lower manifold is covered with a towel to protect from debris) before removing the P/S pump.



Got the wire harness out, it was chewed up pretty bad. I'll take some more detailed pictures tomorrow, but there was a section on the loom that looked like it was melted away. probably from laying on the exhaust headers I'm not sure. This time I'm going to make sure the harness is suspended so it doesn't touch anything.



The new one is going in first thing tomorrow morning and I will be wiring up the Richie Module. Here's to hoping this fixes a large amount of my problems!

 

where and when did you get the richie module, assclown?

 

Summer 2010, and a magical forum for V6 performanced honda accords.

 

I heard the richie module was made from dragon bones and unicorn blood.

 

Today was a long day. Started out with getting the new wire harness hooked up.

Brand new from Acura


Slowly coming together


The wires are tucked away this time


All set, now to wire up the Richie harness in the cabin


Here's a close up of the old harness and potential culprit of the engine rev problem


I've got the Richie Module all wired up and car starts right up. No check engine light or codes for that matter.

But the engine doesn't seem to be running right.


as you can see, I rev it to 3k and it lets off on it's own while my foot is still pressing on the pedal. I've checked all my connections and they seem fine. All coil packs are plugged in, I pulled the intake manifold and checked that the fuel injectors are plugged in. It sounds like it's not getting enough fuel possibly?

Also, what is this plug (8 female pins)? I can't seem to find anything that it plugs into. Was it for the automatic transmission? I looked on the old harness and found it and the inside was quite dirty so I'm not sure.





Thanks for the help!

 

Maybe you shorted the PCM ? .....Are you getting any codes ?

 

I'm not getting any codes nor a check engine light. I'm going to triple check to make sure everything is plugged in tomorrow.

 

Try cleaning up the receiving connectors for the new harness. Use some spray electronic cleaner and then some dielectric lube. Never know, it may be something retardedly simple !

 

checked all connections again and still no luck. Gave it a little gas and saw some black smoke. Is it maybe running rich? I'm still at a loss here. Still no codes

One thing to note, when I first got the engine wire harness (before the Richie Module) hooked up, I forgot to hook up #6 coil pack. (Obviously it ran like a misfire). I plugged it back in and it ran smoother, but it ran like it currently is. I wired up the Richie Module hoping maybe that would fix it but nope.

Maybe when the coilpack wasn't plugged in it dumped a whole lot of fuel in the cylinder and now it's just burning the excess? Would it be a good idea to let it idle to see if it fixes itself? It'll idle smoothly around 1000RPM but I'm sure that's because the engine is cold.

 

the ecu has been tricked by the coil issue,,3k limit is Limp Mode

reset ecu by pulling the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash for a minute

 

I went ahead and did that, no luck. I let it warm up for 5 minutes and started to drive it around the block. Everytime I press down on the accelerator it hesitates. After I let go the RPM falls down to where it acts like it wants to stall but recovers. After a little while I could smell rotten eggs.

 

Couldn't the bad smell be a sign of a cat converter issue??

 

it's possible, but that's an XLR8 cat and it's less than a year old. Would that also explain the hesitation while revving?

 

I do believe someone else had this problem and it was the cat. Just suggesting it cause you said you smelled rotten eggs which is what it'd smell like w no cat. Maybe it's plugged up somehow? Just kinda tossing suggestions out from experience is all.

 

Ahhh...I've had this problem before with another car. Not the rev problem, but the rotten egg smell. It was the new cats I installed. Each car needs a specific cat with the proper shape and flow characteristics to do its job as demanded by the ecu.

I would say your rotten egg smell is due to your cat. I'm not sure if this relates to your rev issue, but it may if the oxygen sensor after the cat gives incorrect readings to the ecu.

 

Have you double checked your module installation? My guess Is its something there causing a limp mode

 

Would you guys recommend I unbolt the cat and see if it's clogged? Maybe even start and run catless to see if it runs better?

it ran like this before the module was wired up. As soon as I finished plugging in the engine wire harness I wanted to do a test startup. I started it up and felt/sounded like a misfire. Turned the car off and noticed #6 coil pack was not plugged in, I plugged in the coilpack started it up and it ran like it does now. I then installed the Richie module hoping maybe that would fix the problem. Nope.

It's not in Limp mode though, I'm able to rev past 3k. It just hesitates when I press down on the gas and shakes and shudders sometimes when driving. Plus the rotten egg smell.

Edit: also no codes

 

I don't think you can run catless as the ecu depends on data from after the cat, right? Maybe you can try and see what happens. If by chance you have an old cat, I'd bolt it on just to eliminate the cat out of your diagnosis. But rotten eggs sure points to a cat issue.