ottsompol

Hi Everyone thank you for looking.

I have a 2000 TL with 122,000 miles on it.

Recently in the morning the car starts very rough almost to a stall. 20-30 seconds later something kicks in and the fast idle kicks in. Can you please tell me what part is shall I check on this issue?

Another issue is my breaks shimmies. I purchased a brand new set of rotors and pads on all 4's. The rotors are vented and zinc coated and the pads are high performance ceramic. The break seems to shimmies when it heats up (it doesn't shimmies in the morning). When i purchased the rotors I didn't get it turned, I figured it's brand new. Could it be the ceramic pads causing too much heat? I figured it's not the rotors since it doesn't shimmies all the time.

Thank you to everyone and for this forum. My Acura runs like a clock (except when in the morning and when I break) and I have saved thousands.

01tl4tl

changed the spark plugs yet?
Ck motor mounts- vac booster system leaks when front or rear mount breaks causing engine roughness

you dont turn new rotors-they should come flat

What brand rotors and pads did you buy
Did you clean and lube the slider parts of the bracket to pads?
used caliper grease where appropriate?

Go back and ck the installation- torque bolts correctly to spec- overtight causes problems!

do the brakes shimmy at a certain speed- say applied 45mph or 60,,describe more please

and the rear brake pads- is there a 3rd tab on the inner pads back? there should be a raised tab at each end- but thats all-2 of them
many makers are using the wrong plate with 3 raised tabs- that hits our caliper piston- pushes the pad out crooked on use,, and only half it makes contact with rotor
Visual ck is rust on half width of rotor and clean shiny other half thats being used
thats inner side rear rotors

Did you flush the brake fluid with the brake job?

01tl4tl

what did the instructions say about bedding in the pads and rotors?

ottsompol

Plugs were changed at 100k
1 motor was changed out at 100k
The engine when cold just sputter, barely runs until the engine warms then it runs fine
The brake shimmies at around 45-55
Brake fluid was flushed at 100k
I'll have to pull the wheels and check the torque and rear plate. I got the pads/rotors at R1Concepts.com.

Thank you for considering

01tl4tl

what plugs did you use? that critical

the rear pad issue can be visually confirmed by looking at inside part of rear rotor from under the car.
after just a few days it will be shiny halfway across and rusty on other half

brakes r1 are usually fine, I would double ck bedding instructions-
did they have you do multiple repeated slow downs from 45 and 60 mph to get the micro hills and valleys of the pads and rotor surfaces to mate into each other?
then with parts hot, do a transfer layer of pad material to rotors- that prevents noises and makes for way better braking force and pad life

or pull it back apart- look for any crud on the center hub for axle thru rotors- if not perfectly flat its going to make the rotor run crooked
Many cars, you have to persuade the rotors off with a hammer- that indicates need for sandpaper cleaning of that center part, and some caliper grease on install there is a good plan

01tl4tl

have you done the EGR port cleaning yet- that will mess with idle and cold start

every 75kmiles they plug up really bad- many pics in diy
Must remove the intake manifold and use carb cleaner and wire hanger to soften and poke the built up carbon loose from the ports-- and the main passage from the egr valve

1.5 hour DIY at a casual pace
need 3 cans carb cleaner and new TB to manifold gasket (order in advance)

ottsompol

Thank you. I will try the EGR cleaning. I did some research about pad/rotor bedding and I am going to try to sand off the rotor with garnet sand paper and try to rebed the rotor.

I don't recall the brand of the spark plugs but I will check that, what brand do you recommend?

Here is that article on brake bedding. http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...akedisk.shtml#

I would am interested to hear what you think of this article, if you have time. Thank you very much.

01tl4tl

how did you bed the pads and rotors so far??

that article is specific to their products- ceramic pads are different than semi met pads- they dont take a hard bedding
the coating on the rotors may take some breaking in too-
dont sand anything until you read the actual maker info!!

ngk Iridium IX spark plugs or NGK platinum are ok too
no cheap brands,, no bosch ac/delco etc- not the right plug for our car

ottsompol

I didn't...i my brother put the rotors and pads on and away I went...

01tl4tl

look up the makers online and ck their directions, not some other brand with different technology and intent
'It may be: use gently for 500 miles then drive normal
or use gently every half mile
Or use in an aggressive manner to knock the new off them

I can only guess that ceramics dont like an aggressive bedding so do your research from the actual makers

ryebreadisme

iTrader: (1)

What grit is garnet sand paper?

01tl4tl

if you are looking to remove old pad material from rotor for a pad change, 120 or 150 is fine