Rear main seal leak
Rear main seal leak
Question...
So I have a minor leak coming from the rear main seal and "I think" it's burning oil (usually can smell it after driving for a period of time). Could this happen to cause misfires from a warm start??
I've changed my spark plugs (all 6) after doing a seafoam in the oil crank and gas tank, trouble shooted my coil packs one by one within the last few weeks, cleaned my IM and egr ports and replaced my egr roughly around 80k miles ago, re-soldered dry points on my main relay etc....
The only thing I haven't replaced was the FPR. Reading previous forums, that could be the issue but not sure...
Any input helps.Thaaaaaaaaanks!!!
So I have a minor leak coming from the rear main seal and "I think" it's burning oil (usually can smell it after driving for a period of time). Could this happen to cause misfires from a warm start??
I've changed my spark plugs (all 6) after doing a seafoam in the oil crank and gas tank, trouble shooted my coil packs one by one within the last few weeks, cleaned my IM and egr ports and replaced my egr roughly around 80k miles ago, re-soldered dry points on my main relay etc....
The only thing I haven't replaced was the FPR. Reading previous forums, that could be the issue but not sure...
Any input helps.Thaaaaaaaaanks!!!
Last edited by jaaaydeeem; Feb 26, 2016 at 11:21 AM.
remove the inspection cover on bottom of engine to trans connection, 2- 10mm head bolts
If bad rear main engine oil seal = there will be oil there
Wipe it up so its not dripping on the hot exhaust
Should not have anything to do with misfire on warm start
ck the PCV- ball inside should roll freely, if clogged that builds internal pressure which can force oil out the rear main seal!
If bad rear main engine oil seal = there will be oil there
Wipe it up so its not dripping on the hot exhaust
Should not have anything to do with misfire on warm start
ck the PCV- ball inside should roll freely, if clogged that builds internal pressure which can force oil out the rear main seal!
remove the inspection cover on bottom of engine to trans connection, 2- 10mm head bolts
If bad rear main engine oil seal = there will be oil there
Wipe it up so its not dripping on the hot exhaust
Should not have anything to do with misfire on warm start
ck the PCV- ball inside should roll freely, if clogged that builds internal pressure which can force oil out the rear main seal!
If bad rear main engine oil seal = there will be oil there
Wipe it up so its not dripping on the hot exhaust
Should not have anything to do with misfire on warm start
ck the PCV- ball inside should roll freely, if clogged that builds internal pressure which can force oil out the rear main seal!
I shall do that this weekend... Been Rainy all week here in NorCal.
Yep NGK Iridium ONLY! Codes read p1399, p0300-p0305. I don't have the CEL anymore though. Cleared it. It's happened twice though. Same codes. And ONLY happens after turning the car on/off multiple times after driving.
80kmiles since last egr port cleaning?- its due for that again !! no kidding every 75 per fsttyms1
why would you replace the egr valve- usually just a spray of some lube on its arm is all thats needed -- once the ports are all
cleared
please clarify- you do multiple stops during a drive, or you repeatedly turn the car on and off while sitting at home after driving?
why would you replace the egr valve- usually just a spray of some lube on its arm is all thats needed -- once the ports are all
cleared
please clarify- you do multiple stops during a drive, or you repeatedly turn the car on and off while sitting at home after driving?
80kmiles since last egr port cleaning?- its due for that again !! no kidding every 75 per fsttyms1
why would you replace the egr valve- usually just a spray of some lube on its arm is all thats needed -- once the ports are all
cleared
please clarify- you do multiple stops during a drive, or you repeatedly turn the car on and off while sitting at home after driving?
why would you replace the egr valve- usually just a spray of some lube on its arm is all thats needed -- once the ports are all
cleared
please clarify- you do multiple stops during a drive, or you repeatedly turn the car on and off while sitting at home after driving?
Fake scenario but that's just an example. I did happen to drive to run errands and that did happen.
But a while ago when I was having misfires and did the whole port/manifold cleaning I just replaced the EGR.
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so, just out of curiosity, what actually happens when you seal the inspection cover. where does the oil go? eventually, won't the flex plate/converter area fill up with oil? that oil has to go somewhere!
post #7 #8 are SARCASM- note the red ink used in one of them.
It should be obvious to anyone able to work on their TL that you would not seal an inspection cover to stop an oil leak!! I hope...not pointing fingers at recent PM to me on this subject~
It should be obvious to anyone able to work on their TL that you would not seal an inspection cover to stop an oil leak!! I hope...not pointing fingers at recent PM to me on this subject~
reminder to ck the PCV over rear valve cover. A hose to it comes from valve cover- other end goes to air inlet snorkel
Ball inside must roll freely or pressure builds up inside crankcase- pressure exits easiest place... and carries some oil with it = rear main seal
Some here have replaced the PCV with new unit from Honda $20 and stopped that seal leak!
Beats 4-5 hours labor/$500 to remove trans and replace a $3 seal~
Ball inside must roll freely or pressure builds up inside crankcase- pressure exits easiest place... and carries some oil with it = rear main seal
Some here have replaced the PCV with new unit from Honda $20 and stopped that seal leak!
Beats 4-5 hours labor/$500 to remove trans and replace a $3 seal~
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