V_Langs_3.2TL

Hi all

The other day as I was driving in a low speed (read: 35mph) zone, out of the blue I started to hear a vibration from the rear tires. I knew that it was tire/suspension related because the vibration was cyclical. Anyways, it wasn't bad so I kept on driving (I checked for a flat/any bubbles in the tires, none though one had low air pressure) got work and parked.

drove home on the highway, speed was between 65-80mph and the vibration is bad. rear view mirror and side mirrors vibrate excessively (blurred image) and there is an audible noise from the rear.

I just got new tires, say about a month ago, I'm lowered on koni yellow and HR race, and my brakes are good. Any input on what it could be? My initial thoughts were just radial imperfections, but that bad? then I thought blown shock, but tbh I actually don't know how i'd know if a shock was blown or not so that's just a guess and considering how the yellows are maybe 2 months old (the springs are older), unless I have a faulty one I just don't know...

any help would be appreciated

steeze4twenty@hotmail.com

lug nuts on wheels loose? ppl attempt to steal wheels and are unsucsessful leaving you with loose nuts

V_Langs_3.2TL

^yeah I thought so too, but I mean they don't seem loose and I don't have wheel locks so if they wanted to take em, they'd be gone right?

I dunno, its probably the alignment. I just adjusted my koni yellows a few days ago. probably the issue..

01tl4tl

you adjusted the konis???--as in moved spring perch height to change car ride height?
that alters both Toe which makes the car go straight
and Camber which is the car trying to pull itself apart or squeeze together
both are bad for the tires and handling

look for oil traces on shocks to indicate blown seal inside

01tl4tl

lug nuts not torqued evenly and correctly can cause a rim to not sit flat on the hub, and in severe cases can warp axle hub and/or rotor--vibration

80 foot pounds is our spec
and tighten them in steps in a star pattern- going across from each bolt to the next
at least 2 steps- hand tight with cars lug tool is about 50 pounds then lower car to ground and go to 80
OR the super technical people do 3 steps 50- 70 with torque wrench then 80 with torque wrench

note to ck tire pressures monthly or more often with the major temp changes from winter.
run tires higher than door sticker- use 80 percent of tires pressure and see how that goes
example max 50- try 40,,car is approx 80 percent weight of tire max load/max pressure, so you reduce pressure by that weight percentage then adjust within a 2-4 psi range up or down to your comfort and tire performance

more stock type tires say 32..- try 36

totaledTL

Don't seem loose- you didn't put a wrench on them?

V_Langs_3.2TL

yeah I did, I know I'm going to have to get an alignment soon, I had a free afternoon and thought I'd fix that nagging few millimeters that I wanted. I just hoisted it up again today and there isn't any oil on the shocks, brake dust and dirt and snow, but no oil.

I only lowered it one perch, should it have caused such a severe vibration?

V_Langs_3.2TL

sorry, I should have elaborated haha. I have one of those torque spec wrenches and I put it to the nuts. no give or pull except maybe a few millimeters?

definitely not the doing of someone trying to take my rims

rcb2000

check and make sure you don't have condensation/water inside of the tire. The alignment won't cause a vibration, loose/worn ball joints, tie-rods, out of balance tires and bad CV's will. It's possible to get water inside of the tire from an air-compressor that doesn't have an inline dryer or has moisture in the tank and then you use it to air up your tires. It's not very common and it will show up at higher speeds and will be inconsitant as the water moves around inside from speeding up and slowing down. If there is water in it once the tire is spinning fast enough the water will stay in one place, but than as you slow and then speed up that location can move and depending on the balance of the wheel when it's at one location it might not effect the balance too much as it would if it was in a different location and have a greater effect. Also check the tread run your hand over it feeling for cupping, with low tire pressure it will wear the tire unevenly and throw off it's balance when inflated properly. if the shock is getting weak then this can cause the tire to cup and create the vibration. It is also possible to loose a wheel weight, so the first step would be to check the tire balance, once you inspect the tire tread for cupping becasue if it is cupped then no amount of balancing is going to fix that only wear, tire shaving or new tires will fix that.

V_Langs_3.2TL

^Thanks for the info!

do you know how I'm supposed to remove water if any is in the tire? Hopefully my tires aren't unevenly worn...but if they are I have the warranty on them and they are only about 4 months old so I will definitely take it to the tire shop.

I doubt the shock is blown, they are virtually (less than 2 months now) brand new koni adjustable yellows...if they're blown that would imply a defective strut no?

rcb2000

you'll have to break down the bead if there is water in it.

have the front end checked out at an alignment shop for loose or worn parts

rub your hand around the tire feeling for bumps and dips in the tread if you feel any most likely your issue and that isn't going to be warrentied either.

01tl4tl

water in the compressor is always possible- but good shops protect their tools and drain it out every night
You can always go ask the manager abou that

shocks- brand new parts fail--it happens
same with tires- brand new can be defect, or an internal belt comes delaminated and shake occurs

01tl4tl

back long ago...I heard a certain race team would put a gallon or three of water IN the tires! at 8 pounds a gallon
made the car go crazy loose on the 1/2 mile circle track as it sloshed -
increased lap times for qualifying~
AND brought the car up to required weight

cars got weighed before/after qualifying,,but not before the race~
A quick swap to the real race tires, losing 100 pounds, and a rear starting position-
made for a fan thrilling race thru the pack!

only became a problem the time all cars were sent directly to race after qualifying