OK, while this isn't on a TL, its on a '98 Accord. I'm not a member of any other forums and didn't really want to start one just to ask this question.

So the water pump on my fiances Accord went out, and we got everything off and ready to go. All was going well until we hit the harmonic balancer's bolt. We can not get that bolt out. We've tried everything. We can't get to the timing belt and water pump without getting this off.

Things we've tried:
2 different air powered impact guns
heating the bolt with a torch
we took off the starter to see if we could kind of jam something into the flywheel to stop it from turning, but that was a no go.


so any applicable ideas would be greatly appreciated.

 

I would try the starter method. Put a tire iron on the bolt and wedge the other end on the ground or the lower arm, so it's secured. Then flick the starter and the bolt should loosen.

 

if its at all like the TL follow above instruction, use starter as a tool to bang the bolt loose for you- it will do it..see our 105 diy thread

the torque is 171 ft pounds iirc and critical you get it back on tight

they make a Honda pulley removal tool to make swift easy removal- $25

 

does that pulley removal tool remove the bolt too? or just a stuck on pulley?

 

it holds the pulley still so you can apply force with a 4 foot long breaker bar type tool to the bolt
or maybe the impact gun will get it then
if movement is part of the problem, that help

search kragen.com -was an order item, not in stock

 

most here would use the starter as a torque tool-
with a breaker bar and socket from the crank pulley bolt,,to either the control arm/ suspension- nice solid strong part, or against the ground placed so it wont move,
When you engage the starter-blip blip blip-BANG its loose! its like a 300 foot pound torque wrench (number used is imaginary to illustrate power of starter vs you by hand or regular air tool)

 

Isn't torque value for that 181 ft. lbs? No 105 DIY thread found- use tb/wp threads-

 

you are correct again Sir!
Please see the prize booth on the 3rd floor,,take the escalator!,,its right next to the complaint department

why do I resist wearing the readin specs when typing,, at least when proof-reading my post,,

torque spec 181 foot pounds on the crank bolt for the TL
cant say on the accord but probably close

 

one issue though, that the OP never mentioned, is the Accord a 4 cylinder or the V6, cause the starter method WILL NOT WORK on the 4 cylinder, cause you will actually tighten the crank bolt instead

 

we dont have a 105 diy listed?--of course!! someone would title it by the actual work--for easier search I guess
water pump timing belt,,wp/tb service are your keywords

gen3 has an excellent step by step diy- close up pics with arrows and everything-very helpful- torque specs on pics with each bolt..

its a good time to do a valve adjust if over 100kmiles
and while the intake manifold is off- do the egr cleaning

 

thats why we have fries!!--that guy knows the trick little stuff,,current tech type knowledge,,smarter than the average-- whatever that is in your avatar this week lol

rather than some old guy- old school -refers to working in shops as `back in the day`...
at self,,once you pass 50

 

does not help when the tool itself bends ; needed a 3/4" impact to get one off before

iirc even the 4 cylinders have the same torque value on the crank bolt

 

I figured our diys had enough info about a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar,,
with something strong over the breaker bar to extend its length if needed--
that I didnt need to type it all over again

 

no the pulley holder tool itself bent ; breaker bar was still good afterwards, even with using a cheater bar on it

 

Fries avatar is XXX version of Bug's Life movie.

Best cheater bar is 4ft cast iron pipe found in electrical aisle at home improvement store. Supposed to used for electrical conduit, but makes a great cheater bar, and cheap.