StrawDragon

Please help!

I have a schedule on Saturday to see my mechanic. However I would like to know what I might be getting into prior to that. The problem...

Subject: Acura 2003 TL 3.2 Automatic with about 80k miles.
Problem: Recently my car started to stall or almost stall where the tach would drop to near zero and almost power off. It happens randomly, but after a day of this happening (started yesterday) I have found a way to replicate or induce the problem.

With the engine running and in Park, I would put my HID on (stock lights), AC on and radio (doesnt have to be). When I try to raise my power windows closed when closed (larger drain on the load) the car will go dim and almost kick off. The required maintenance will flash on and turn off when the problem stops.

Based on this I feel it is maybe some relay, electrical contact or something.

Additional Info:
- Car starts right up, no extra cranking or slow cranking
- Car off, Battery measures 12.5v
- Car on, Battery measures 14.05v
- Battery had wet blue substance around the positive lead
- With HID off, I had a harder time trying to stall the engine. Stock lights and ballast that came with my car.


It had almost stalled while on city streets but not on the highway (thank god).

Thoughts?

my.daily'tl'

Condition of battery? Age? Have you had it load tested?

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like alternator to me.

StrawDragon

The battery was purchased around July 07. There is some blue/green wet foam stuff around the positive lead and some harder calcium stuff on the negative. (small amounts).

After driving home about 25 miles on the highway, I tried to cause the engine to stall again by running the AC, radio, HID and the power windows. The lights dimmed but did not stall the engine.

When I tested it earlier, it has been sitting for 7 hours.

Wouldn't the car still sort of work from the battery? Would the alternator still push 14v to my battery when started and idle if bad?

Karanx7

iTrader: (2)

If the problem is arising from increasing the electrical load, then that means the alternator isn't able to recharge the battery adequately.

01tl4tl

the crud is actually `outgassing` from the battery causing corrosive action to the nearest metal,,the terminal post and exposed metal of cables

Its from the location of the vents on your battery-
learned this when mine recently had same issue, was replaced at Batteries Plus--
guy explained their vent was on the side not the top, and I wont have the problem again

With that outgassing means you are likely boiling fluid!!!- losing needed fluid inside battery- - requires fluid to hold the electrical charge

If the battery wont accept the charge because its out or very low on water,,all the charging or driving in the world wont fix the problem!!

If you can remove the caps on the batt- see how the level is--if you can clearly see exposed metal plates = its toast

In that condition it will show ok voltage but wont pass a load test,,where cranking amps may read 335 instead of 500+ (example from my test results)

the car takes a huge amount of electricity to operate, just starting the car takes a big jolt of stored electricity,
The alt has to replace that useage, plus run the lights, stereo, seat heat, and whatever else you are running,,plus all the sensors and ignition-fuel injection ..all from 105 amp alt and basic 12v batt

Parts stores are happy to ck the system for free

I liked the full service at batteries plus and recommend them- cleaned the actual cable ends and inside cables by dipping in cup of hot water (you can add baking soda to hot water for faster effect)
most places sandpaper inside the cable terminal and call it good- they went the extra step to be sure the cables were up to the job.

Also they charge all their new batteries when they come in- on a 30 station! `Battery Tender` machine, so you get a fully charged ready to go unit--not half charged after sitting on parts store shelf for several month losing charge

if you need to buy a batt anywhere- ask if they have a `blemished unit` for cheap-
if price is a factor. I got one with a broken fitting tab,, piece not needed for the TL and saved 40 bucks
expect 80+ bucks for a good battery

totaledTL

Def. get the batt. load tested. It's approaching 4 yrs. old (if not already)- it's probably on its last leg. Make certain both cables are clean & tight, both ends.

Skirmich

Hey 01tl4tl!

Hows your Volt reading with Car On?
Mine is 14.5V@Idle with the Big3 (Stock TL-S Alternator)+Yellow Top!
Once HU+AMPs+All 6 Lights On = Will drop to 14.3V-14.4V.

I Dont now if thats normal cuz A friend of mine HAD to make his OEM (Different Car) Alternator to a HO one to make that Volt reading, Is it normal for a TL-S Alternator to Hit that Mark or My Voltage Regulator is Going Out?

Cuz Someone told me it isnt Normal.

FYI: With Bass Pounding (Single 12W6v2 + JL Slash500/1) Volume at 3/4 will drop to around 14.2V Alternating, Lowest Ever was 14.1V.

01tl4tl

that because the alt isnt making real power at idle, barely enough to sustain the car

once above 1500 rpm its putting out whatever is needed

thats one reason the owner book says dont run both seat heaters on High at idle
just sitting warming up--puts too much demand on the system