Please help asap using 2003 TL type S as stock car having v tech trouble

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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 09:01 AM
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Please help asap using 2003 TL type S as stock car having v tech trouble

I have an 03 tl typs s i picked up that im turing into a nascar oval 6 cylinder race car and i bought it for the v tech system. I had a 1259 code to start with and i went through and read blogs and tested evrrything and found the original solenoid did not click as hard as the other one i had off a parts car. They both passed through when energized the same but i replaced it any way. The switched tested good there was power and ground in all wires appropriately. Both solenoids tested ok ohms related. I found two plug in wires for the vtech had weak female ends so i took them apart and adjusted them so they engaged properly and put it all back together and it worked perfect for 5 minutes. Then at the end of the road i test on i did some forward donughts to simulate some of the beating the car will recieve. It reset 1259 and then was back to same bs where it wont rev past 5500 and vtech not seeming to work. I figured that was because of the doughnuts shifting oil far enough to set low oil level issue. I stopped and shut the car off and restarted it and it worked properly for like two acceleration cycles then started the same thing. No more than 5500 rpm and vtech not working. So i stopped and shut off restarted and it worked through one cycle. Then repeated shut off and it refused to work at all. Tried several times and did not work. Tried unhooking battery and did not work. Would clear codes but as soon as i started to move it was back on. I gave up and read some blogs including this one and seemed this one was the smartest so i re read this morning and came back to check if it was setting above or below 4000rpm. Hooked up scanner n took off and vtech worked flawlessly till the same end of the road where i turn around (about 3 to 5 mi) turned around slowly and on the way bach rev limit at 5500 again but this time strangely no code. Started and stopped several times shut off and restarted several times not once fixing it. Nor once setting the code. Then when i got back i shut it off for almost a minute then restarted and roasted the tires in the mud to check and sure as shit it worked right again. My issue here is the track im going to run i need second gear only and with this issue my top speed is about 58 to 59mph. I need the potential for closer to 70mph and when it bings the rev limiter a few times cycling through acceleration and braking cycles as i will on track it sets a lower rev limit of 3000rpm or so which i have to flash the key off and on to recover from. I need this thing to work perfect to dominate as i have in the past ( 2 back to back championships and a 3rd last year) i might be able to live with it for a night limiting at 5500 but the whole deciding to drop it to 3000 after so many pings will make it difficult as its hard to flash the key with everything going on just making laps much less being in a pack of 7 to 30 cars that half dont have a clue how to drive plus the guy behind you not getting that driving through you when your having issues will only get them the black flag. Seriously odds are good if it pulls that crap on track ill most likely get hit if not run over before i can flash it back to life. So in summation my questions are <br />1 What is going on that its rev limiting at 5500 sometimes and vtech not seeming to work and others seeming to be fine all without cel or codes popping up on the scanner? <br />2 Can i wire together the low oil sensor wires to trick it to think level is fine as cornering a lot will inevitably most likely keep setting it off? <br />3 Is there any way to trick the vtech system to be on all the time as it will never see street use again so should not be an issue? <br />4 Is there any way to trick it to not rev limit at 5500 no matter what or when its not setting vtech codes at least? <br /><br />Thanks in advance, John the Madman.... By the way my first race is on sunday the 30th so the sooner the help the better. Thanks again!!!
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 10:02 AM
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Is anybody even seeing this?

Please reply something if you can see this post. Thanks.
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 10:43 AM
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Just a helpful hint - paragraphs will cause a lot more people to read your post!
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by SuperGreg
Just a helpful hint - paragraphs will cause a lot more people to read your post!
yep. Im sure. Can i edit it?
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 10:52 AM
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too advanced for me, mr.madman! sounds like with your experience and a wire schematics, you can figure it out!!!!!
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 12:14 PM
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Sounds like it really is low on oil or the oil sensor is faulty. I'd replace that first then see what happens. Since it sounds like the cars on its way to the junk yard anyway, I'd say just go ahead and wire in a resistor to the sensor so it gets the right signal and lets you rev it regardless. If you're just gonna bang it up, who cares.

If you're rich, run a dry sump.

If not and you wanna fix it right, pull the oil pan and weld in some baffles to keep the oil from sloshing around so much. Almost all race cars have a baffled oil pan to combat oil starvation issues. Or the richies get dry sumps of course.
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 12:59 PM
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Its gotta be

Originally Posted by Kris9884
Sounds like it really is low on oil or the oil sensor is faulty. I'd replace that first then see what happens. Since it sounds like the cars on its way to the junk yard anyway, I'd say just go ahead and wire in a resistor to the sensor so it gets the right signal and lets you rev it regardless. If you're just gonna bang it up, who cares.

If you're rich, run a dry sump.

If not and you wanna fix it right, pull the oil pan and weld in some baffles to keep the oil from sloshing around so much. Almost all race cars have a baffled oil pan to combat oil starvation issues. Or the richies get dry sumps of course.
Its gotta be stock so no dry sump and it was overfull on oil. It needed a change so i did butbi went with 5 30 instead and it fixed the issue. So im all good but cant really spend much time replying what else i did cause i still have to get it and get my door plate roll bar and harness in it and finish stripping it even then get it the hour drive to get the paint and lettering done etc. Thats gotta happen sometime today before dark. Lol. Thanks. Oh and do you know what resistor ohm id want?
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Old Apr 28, 2017 | 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Madman57
Its gotta be stock so no dry sump and it was overfull on oil. It needed a change so i did butbi went with 5 30 instead and it fixed the issue. So im all good but cant really spend much time replying what else i did cause i still have to get it and get my door plate roll bar and harness in it and finish stripping it even then get it the hour drive to get the paint and lettering done etc. Thats gotta happen sometime today before dark. Lol. Thanks. Oh and do you know what resistor ohm id want?
No idea on the voltage. Luckily, its just a signal wire though, there's either low oil or there isn't, so, while the light is lit or not, just give it the opposite. Grab a voltage meter and check if there's a signal or not. Most likely there's a constant signal and once the oil level is too low, it cuts the signal and turns on the dash light. It'll take some trial and error but its not too hard.
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 09:11 PM
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Update.

Ok so i had the vtech working flawlessly on the street but in practice it kept quitting after the first lap. So i figured it may be what i thought was a low oil sensor. Turns out it does not have one. So im going to clean the screen and stuff and see how that works.

We got rained out the first two nights so june 3rd was our first race and i started out lastist and laster...let me explain. I am always fast in everything i drive. So they have tried to control my speed with getting creative with my starting positions. I get one of 3 positions to start. Last laster or lastist. Ive been made to start 5 car lengths behind the last place starter who was like 27th in a 15 lap race before. Anyway i started my heat lastist and shot to first with like 4 of 8 total laps to go. Then i started the feature laster ( in other words there was actually one car starting next to me that was technically one position lower than i. With 4 to go i passed for the lead on the 2nd fastest car (acura legend circa 1994 or so) on the outside just because i could. So even without the vetech working and too big of tire size (225/60/16) its pretty dominant. It rev limits at 5500 right now without the vetech so if i get that working good ill be able to drop tire sizes and really haul some ass. Thanks everyone for your help.
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Old Jun 13, 2017 | 09:14 PM
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Trying to post a picture.

Here i am in victory lane for the second time in a row June 3rd.
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Old Jun 21, 2017 | 01:41 PM
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Next win.

Two features...two wins back to back.
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Old Jun 21, 2017 | 01:44 PM
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fuckin awesome madman!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i'm assuming that means you got vtec to work!
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Old Jun 21, 2017 | 01:54 PM
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Not so much. But figured it out.

Originally Posted by justnspace
fuckin awesome madman!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i'm assuming that means you got vtec to work!
The first race the vtech only worked about 1 lap. But i still won from almost last place. This last one on the 17th i added a pint of stp and the vtech worked about 8 laps or so. Think im going to change oil from 5w 30 to straight 50 wt. Think that will fix it permanently just have to warm it up good before i thrash it.
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Old Jun 21, 2017 | 01:58 PM
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Oh yeah.

Won from last place on the 17th too. Passed 19 cars in 15 laps and including lapped traffic pased about 30 each time. Its pretty fast but i was out qualified by two svt ford contours. .020 seconds faster a lap. I was super surprised by that. They started in front of me in the feature but finished like 4th and 6th.
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Old Jun 21, 2017 | 02:00 PM
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keep on thrashing!
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Old Jun 21, 2017 | 04:08 PM
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that's pretty cool. love it!
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