P0336 after car had been sitting idle for a month
#1
P0336 after car had been sitting idle for a month
I was out of country and my car sat in the garage for almost a month. I was worried that the battery may have died. But the car started in first attempt and drove just fine when I took it for a spin around the block. I brought the car back and parked it outside. Next day too it started fine, but as soon as it started moving forward the engine misfired a couple of times and Check Engine light came on. The orange triangle (VSA OFF) also came on. So I parked the car and turned it off. I started it again after couple of minutes but both VSA OFF and Check Engine lights were on, so I did not drive it.
Later on I started it again to take it to a mechanic and this time only the Check Engine light came on. I drove the car around the parking lot and everything seemed OK. So I drove it to the mechanic. He read the code and P0336 (Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit) came on. Since my regular guy was not there, I decided to take it home and bring it back next day. I drove about quarter of a mile and the Check Engine light turned off on it's own. I had specifically asked the mechanic to not clear the code so that my usual guy could see it the next day. The car drove just fine and did not show any signs of a problem.
Now I am wondering if I should take the car back to the mechanic tomorrow or wait for the Check Engine light to come on again.
What do you guys advise?
Thanks
JoshTL
Later on I started it again to take it to a mechanic and this time only the Check Engine light came on. I drove the car around the parking lot and everything seemed OK. So I drove it to the mechanic. He read the code and P0336 (Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit) came on. Since my regular guy was not there, I decided to take it home and bring it back next day. I drove about quarter of a mile and the Check Engine light turned off on it's own. I had specifically asked the mechanic to not clear the code so that my usual guy could see it the next day. The car drove just fine and did not show any signs of a problem.
Now I am wondering if I should take the car back to the mechanic tomorrow or wait for the Check Engine light to come on again.
What do you guys advise?
Thanks
JoshTL
#2
Mr.Helpful Diagram
I would take it back and have him inspect the wiring of the sensor, Failure of that sensor is rare. Mice might have chewed the wiring or corrosion took place in the connector.
To replace it the timing belt covers have to come off so hopefully he finds a wiring issue by the connector and not something else.
The code is in memory so he'll see it even if the light is off.
To replace it the timing belt covers have to come off so hopefully he finds a wiring issue by the connector and not something else.
The code is in memory so he'll see it even if the light is off.
#3
I would take it back and have him inspect the wiring of the sensor, Failure of that sensor is rare. Mice might have chewed the wiring or corrosion took place in the connector.
To replace it the timing belt covers have to come off so hopefully he finds a wiring issue by the connector and not something else.
The code is in memory so he'll see it even if the light is off.
To replace it the timing belt covers have to come off so hopefully he finds a wiring issue by the connector and not something else.
The code is in memory so he'll see it even if the light is off.
-Josh
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NBP04TL4ME (12-25-2014)
#4
I think low battery voltage is generating false codes
The TL needs correct volts to operate all the sensors and get good info from them, or it throws freaky codes
Yes it got the car started, then didn't get recharged with a good 30 minute drive
Was then called upon to start the car a few more times = all draining its charge without time to regain it from the alternator = rpm over 1500 and no load from lights-stereo etc
charge the battery by driving or by machine, clear ECU by pulling CLOCK fuse for a minute and reinsert
Drive to fully charge battery and dry out moisture that's in the various fluids
ck for codes at any parts store- free!
The TL needs correct volts to operate all the sensors and get good info from them, or it throws freaky codes
Yes it got the car started, then didn't get recharged with a good 30 minute drive
Was then called upon to start the car a few more times = all draining its charge without time to regain it from the alternator = rpm over 1500 and no load from lights-stereo etc
charge the battery by driving or by machine, clear ECU by pulling CLOCK fuse for a minute and reinsert
Drive to fully charge battery and dry out moisture that's in the various fluids
ck for codes at any parts store- free!
#5
I think low battery voltage is generating false codes
The TL needs correct volts to operate all the sensors and get good info from them, or it throws freaky codes
Yes it got the car started, then didn't get recharged with a good 30 minute drive
Was then called upon to start the car a few more times = all draining its charge without time to regain it from the alternator = rpm over 1500 and no load from lights-stereo etc
charge the battery by driving or by machine, clear ECU by pulling CLOCK fuse for a minute and reinsert
Drive to fully charge battery and dry out moisture that's in the various fluids
ck for codes at any parts store- free!
The TL needs correct volts to operate all the sensors and get good info from them, or it throws freaky codes
Yes it got the car started, then didn't get recharged with a good 30 minute drive
Was then called upon to start the car a few more times = all draining its charge without time to regain it from the alternator = rpm over 1500 and no load from lights-stereo etc
charge the battery by driving or by machine, clear ECU by pulling CLOCK fuse for a minute and reinsert
Drive to fully charge battery and dry out moisture that's in the various fluids
ck for codes at any parts store- free!
I was doing some research and this video says bad cranks shaft sensor can cause the car to crank but not start.
Typically car runs poorly and dies often when this sensor is bad. In my case the car runs just fine. It did misfire a couple of times in succession, but that was just once . Confused!
-Josh
#6
trust nothing besides work done on an actual TL, other cars problems are not our problem!
it backfired or misfired?
spark plug condition and age/miles on them? correct ngk?
this started after some repairs, or needed repairs were put off for a long time?
it backfired or misfired?
spark plug condition and age/miles on them? correct ngk?
this started after some repairs, or needed repairs were put off for a long time?
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joshTL (01-07-2015)
#7
When I took it to a shop to have the code read I told them to not clear the code. But the check engine light turned off on it's own while I was driving home from the shop. In last two weeks I have driven the car number of times and it's running just fine. There is no sign of any trouble.
Thank you and others for helpful suggestions.
Josh
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#8
stop by a parts store for a free test of battery and alternator
then for fun, do the ecu reset via fuse remove method
then for fun, do the ecu reset via fuse remove method
#9
84k its probably on the original spark plugs
time for a new set of ngk- 8 dollar each and worth it!
a can of seafoam in half a tank- done twice- will clean the entire internals,, systems of fuel and combustion and thru cat and exhaust
New PCV is a good idea for 20 dollars
time for a new set of ngk- 8 dollar each and worth it!
a can of seafoam in half a tank- done twice- will clean the entire internals,, systems of fuel and combustion and thru cat and exhaust
New PCV is a good idea for 20 dollars
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Mike Bertram
2G TL (1999-2003)
9
09-10-2015 09:27 AM