Hey guys, me again. So my 2003 TL-S has been doing something strange lately. Whenever I drive for long enough to get the engine nice and warmed up and then either put it in park, or just have it idle with my foot on the brake, (like waiting in a drive thru) the temperature gauge will start to climb. At a certain point the cooling fan comes on and the gauge goes down a little bit, but if I'm idling long enough, I notice that it settles four or five notches below the red H line. The cooling fan just keeps whirling but doesn't really seem to do much. Then when I get to driving again, the temp gauge will go back down to what (I assume) is the normal just below half way mark. I do need and oil change (just a quick question: I'm thinking of switching over to full synthetic oil. Car has 231,000 miles. Which brand of oil would you guys recommend?) and I'm thinking the coolant needs to be flushed as well. Just want to get your guys' opinions. I'm posting this really late, (California time) so I will check back tomorrow. Thanks in advance.

P.S. I love this community and hope it never goes away. Love to you all.

- Eric

 

Have ya checked the coolant level within the rad ? Does the reservoir go low or run dry ?
Perhaps ya have a pinhole leak somewhere or a faulty rad cap. Make sure that the coolant is up and purged of any air pockets.

Also, a 50:50 ratio blend of coolant to water is important. Maybe the cooling fan's motor is worn out or the rad is gunked up ? If no apparent problems, have the cooling system inspected and pressure checked.

 

Check the coolant level in the res and radiator. Make sure they are full. Has the fluid ever been flushed? Get the car nice and warm to where the radiator fan kicks on, and check, does just one turn on or do both. Do the fan/fans only turn on once the temp gauge starts to climb? Like 3.2TLc mentioned, maybe have the system pressure tested.

As for oil any good "Full" synthetic is good. The Penzoil Platinum is good, M1 Extended performance is good as well and can be bought relatively cheap at Walmart

 

There are 2 fans in the TL. The second, smaller fan comes on when the temp climbs just above half way on the gauge. It's not strong enough to cool the engine on it's own and the temp will climb at idle. From your description, the larger main fan is not working? That one goes on when the temp gauge is just below half, and/or the AC is actuated.

So first check coolant level, then see if the primary fan is working.

 

should get to temp in a few minutes driving and stay at the 1-2 lines below half regardless of operation conditions
the driver side is Primary cooling, a thread in main gen2 section just had to replace his
the passenger side fan is AC controlled, and as backup for primary if needed
stoplights and drive thrus may cause primary fan to cycle a few times for 15-30 seconds and shut off

note:- others said to ck fluid levels- COLD!!! ck the res cap- hose attached to it inside likes to slip off causing no transfer of critical fluid with car shutoff
Ck fluid level is correct for cold level- the lower mark, hose is good on its length to rad and at rad connection

rad should be full -just down slightly when ckd cold
see owner book for complete coolant system burping procedure www.owners.acura.com for free download of one for your year

Coolant is changed with the every 105kmiles timing belt water pump job.
its lifespan is 5 years max then additives go bad and not as effective as it eats aluminum!

 

When you drive and temp goes down to normal, these thee could possibly fix your problem. I wouldn't think it was a leak, as you won't miss the leak and it would give you more serious heating problem even with a small leak. Apparently the fans are still running as you said, but still make sure temp sensor is working properly.

1. check your radiator cap, the spring is broken
2. thermal stat is bad, or unless your rad is gunked up.
3. make sure temp sensor is working properly when temp is over half.

 

where has the OP gone? we cant keep guessing without some test results

 

Yeah..... a week later, have ya checked the fans and coolant ECT sensor yet ?

If it's been a while and the coolant is old and gunked up, flush the cooling system. May be a good time to install a new Honda 2 stage T-stat, rad cap and then check the fans after burping the air from the system.

Ya don't want to allow the motor to overheat for extended periods, so attempt to find the problem before it causes other issues.

 

I agree, assuming wp is not leaking/was replaced in last 100kmiles,
flush the coolant- and engine block drain, install new HONDA dealer thermostat
and a rad cap
burp system per owner book- heater on hot-cabin fan high- doors open to let heat escape car~