Hi all,

So after the whole highbeam/lowbeam fisaco (which seem to have went away by itself), my passanger lowbeam went out. After checking autozone for the prices, I decided to go with HIDeXtra as recommended on the forums and try to change the bulbs by myself (I highly recommend them as well). The problem was it was dark and cold, and I did not have the right tools to do the job so I figured to just go to a mechanic for a quick change since it was my fourth night driving with a broken headlight and I was heading to the City for the weekend.

First, the mechanic gave me hell for buying bulbs from China (probably because it wasn't from him), then he refused to replace both headlights because "we should save the other one until one dies". I didn't want to argue with him because I figured to just get a quick change and I'll take care of the other side by myself later.

What I saw him do was removing the windshield liquid pour top(?) as he was trying to remove the black cover behind the headlight (which took him 15 minutes to do and I was asked to be seated in another room after that). Later that night, I noticed a winding noise coming from my engine so I looked under the hook. What I saw was the powersteering tank being out of place so I turned off my car and letch it back in place. Once I did that, the noise went away and I was on my way.

This morning as I was driving to work, the noise came back and it was more apparent when I was making a turn. I haven't look under the hood yet (will do so at lunch), but I have heard that noise before when the pulleys from the belts need replacement. For the life of me, I just can't figure out what the heck he did... Any idea is appreicated.

Thanks,

-- Sam

 

Him not wanting to change both bulbs at the same time wanting to wait till the other goes out should have been your cue to walk out the door (ALWAYS replace both bulbs at the SAME time, HID or Halogen). Before even driving the car any further you need to check the fluid level in the ps res, and also look to see if there is anything touching the belts.

 

Thanks fsttyms1. Yes, I should have known better, just didn't think of how much worse it can get...

I checked the PS level and it was fine, also didn't see anything close to touching the belts. It has been really cold here lately, so maybe that has something to do with it?

Thanks,

-- Sam

 

So I was driving home and the noise came back. I was able to locate which pulley was making the noise and took a video of it:
I also noticed there is a "wet spot" under the manifold, I wonder where the leakage comes from... Would tightening the nut help stop the noise for now? I do plan to take it to a trusted mechanic this Friday.

The noise did go away right after I finished taking the video with the car probably idle about 3 - 5 minutes.

-- Sam

 

Do you notice if the ps res is foaming when its running or is the fluid normal looking while idling? You can try to tighten the bolts to see if one is loose.

No real special tools are required for changing the lights other than a #20 security torx. You can get them at any autoparts store or hardware store for 2-3 bucks tops. After that its much like a regular bulb for replacing. Save your money and tackle the job yourself. There is a DIY in the DIY thread that shows pretty much what you need to do.

 

The PS fluid in the res is normal looking while idling. I will get the torx and do it myself.

 

Your mechanic makes me sad.

 

Hey FuriousSam, the passenger side is the easier of the two to replace the lo beam bulb. Just take your time and with a little patience, you can do it ! Be careful to use latex gloves when handling the new bulb and study the bulb's retaining clip position.

Double check the pump's positioning along with the belt tension and tracking. Maybe a pulley is binding ? There was no need for this to be moved while attempting to replace the headlamp bulb. Wonder where some guy's heads are... or if they're trying to stir up additional work ????

 

MilwaukeeDave, it was the first time I went to that guy. My dad went there before for a battery change and thought we can use him for small stuff since he's around the corner from our house. The mechanic we trust lives two hours away from us, so much for the "small" stuff now.

3.2TLc, I didn't know I had to remove the black cover to change the bulb. At first I thought I had to remove the plug in that tight space in order to get the bulb out... lesson learnt!

Is there a certain torque I should watch out for with that pulley? I also noticed that the winding noise gets worse when I turn my steering wheel. Not sure if that big pulley affects turning or it could be from the PS reservoir being moved?

 

I can't edit the above message anymore...

Anyway, my coworker asked if the tubes that deliver the PS fluids could have been affected by unlatching the PS reservoir. And as I was doing a quick search on the forums, I found this o-ring guide. I wonder if it'll help.

-- Sam

 

Hi all,

So I drove an hour right before the blizzard on Friday to see my real mechanic and he was able to diagnose the problem to the powersteering pump failing. $350 later (oil change and other headlight changed included) and the noise finally went away.

Right when I was about to leave, I noticed the passanger side headlight was off (the one that was changed by the other guy). After the mechanic took a look at it, it turned out that the bulb wasn't placed correctly and it got loose when they were replacing the PS pump (thank goodness it happened then). Now I finally have matching headlights!

P.S. I do agree that although the 4300K bulbs are a bit yellow and not as nice as the 5000K bulbs, I was able to see more with them. But I will reserve my judgement until the new bulbs are fully burn in.

Thanks all!

-- Sam

 

Glad you got it fixed, but it Sounds like you got hosed again. Odds are the pump was just fine needing nothing more than 3 bucks in o-rings.

 

Man, I feel sorry for ya ! Buy some tools and download a service manual, we can help ya next time !!!!