Ok guys, so i first noticed my oil pressure light come on last night when i was dricing on the highway, it came on for a few minutes and began flashing. Once i got off the highway i turned the car off and back on and the light disappeared. Today i was merging onto the highway and stepped on the gas and i felt the car lunge forward with tremendous acceleration before i was driving regularly again, and this whole time while the car was accelerating and lunging the oil pressure light came on and disappeared on its own.

Any suggestions on what this may be?


Other than this the car runs great with no problems.

 

did you ck the oil level? oil pressure effects many things

 

Did v-tec engage when you got on it?

 

Whats up andy, yea the vtec kicked in and the damn light kept blinking and dissapeared when i began cruising

 

Whats good man!
And I dont think you have a problem with oil pressure so to speak if vtec engaged, because vtec is based on oil pressure, or it relies on oil pressure, Thats probably the better way to put it...

See if there are any codes that can be read.

 

When i get home i will have to hook it up to the computer and see what i get. I know that i am due for an oil change in about 500 miles, but im thinking about getting it done this weekend.

 

may be time to run seafoam thru the oil,
add half a can to the oil and drive 30+ minutes, use vtec several times so everything is getting cleaner thru it
then drain oil while still warm,,or the crud goes to the bottem of pan and gets solid again

you can wait a day to change oil after the 30 minute drive, just drive it 15 minutes on the freeway to fully warm the system, that makes the crud liquid, then change oil and filter

 

I WILL PROBABLY SEAFOAM THIS WEEKEND, I HAVE IN THE PAST JUST GOT A LITTLE LAZY BUT HOPEFULLY THE SEAFOAM AND THE ROYAL PURP FIX MY ISSUE

 

rp is ok but not the worlds greatest oil-especially for the money.
plenty of oil analysis to back that statement up

 

What about the oil level?? Did you check it? Very important-

 

YES, I DID CHECK THE OIL LEVEL AND IM GOOD. THIS IS A VERY WEIRD PROBLEM BUT HOPEFULLY THE SEAFOAMING WILL HELP AND, HOPEFULLY THE CAR JUST WENT CRAZY FOR A SECOND

 

If the oil level is fine, you might want to check the oil pressure sending unit (connector, wiring, voltages). After checking those two items, it only gets more and more ugly...oil pump, bearings.

What's troubling is the engine lunging (I'm assuming you mean surging) you described. Coupled with the oil pressure light flashing might indicate a faulty PCM or something that is connected between the air/fuel mix and the oil pressure. I can't think of anything right off the top of my head but maybe someone else can connect the two ?

Does it come on more when you start or stop ? If yes, that's the sloshing back and forth, tripping the sensor, a sign of low oil.

Let up know what happened !

Good luck !

 

You need to remove the oil pressure sending unit and check oil pressure with a gage. I mean drive it with the mech. gage hooked up and get the engine in VTEC. You need to confirm oil pressure is good. I'm sure it's fine or the car wouldn't run. While you have the sending unit out replace it. I drive my car Hard and have to add about 1/2 quart between oil changes, which is every 5k miles with Mobil-1 . Hope this helps.

 

vtec operates off a change in oil pressure with rpm and uses oil pressure to operate its system of sliders

gen3 has a sludge issue with the sliders so I suggest seafoam 1/2 can in the oil and a good 30 minute + drive, then change oil and filter
use vtec burst to get cleaner at its parts in action

oil pressure switches get plugged easily, should be fairly cheap.. anyone have an estimate?
I have replaced it on more than one vehicle

 

THANKS FOR ALL OF THE FEEDBACK AND HELP GUYS
(ROYAL PURP IS THE BEST) LOL

GOT HOME AND CHECKED THE OIL LEVEL...... ALMOST EMPTY!

THE DRAIN PLUG HAD A LEAK ISSUE, TIME FOR A NEW OIL PAN, LETS SEE WHAT ACURA QUOTES ME.

THE THREAD TO THE OIL PAN WHERE THE PLUG GOES IS RUNNING, NEVER AGAIN WILL I GET AN OIL CHANGE AT WALMART, MY GUESS IS THAT THEY USED A POWER TOOL TO PUT THE PLUG BACK ON AND THIS RAN THE THREAD

 

ahh the old quicklube stripped my drain plug bolt threads...heard it many times

If you have a receipt you can go after wally for the pan

Some have been able to helicoil the drain threads and save it
or get a new pan and install

dealer will bend you over,,ck with out sponsoring dealers for discount on part,mention azine,
cl diy section for more

 

So i took it into acura, quoted me a hefty amount but i get them to lower it for me. The oil pain is completely done walmart hallowed out the plug, so i am keeping all of the parts and bringing them into walmart for the complaint of their life!!!

 

Just grab the oil pan from a vendor or from a dealer, most should match prices if you ask...
LMK, I can help you install it if you need...

Text me if anyting.

 

Thanks Andy, but I left the car at Acura was in a crazy rush. They take care of me there so its only going to cost me a couple hundred, which isnt bad. I was just so stressed so I told them to go ahead and do the job, the funny part is, when they put the car on the lift, they fuc$%^& up my sideskirts since the car is so low. So now they are going to have to repaint them both. IDIOTS!!! no one can ever do anything right now a days

There goes some of the founds I had for my secret project I had in mind

*cough* Turbo *cough*

 

Hi MR101 :

You have no idea how fortunate you are !! A couple hundred bucks for a new oil pan is the best possible outcome to this situation. I could imagine you leaving a stoplight and hearing a CRUNCH, the front wheels locking up and the dashboard lighting up like a Christmas tree. Gives me the shivers just thinking about it !

I would definitely go back to Wallymart, show them the oil pan and let me them know they got off very lucky.....and then ask for a check !!

 

I know smartypants lol, very lucky!!!! When im telling you the oil was gone completely gone, it was all gone! It was scary when i got home.

I actually told acura to forget it and will have nitrous install it for me since he works at honda,

and after they fuc^&%$ up my sideskirt i dont want to give acura anymore business.

But wackmart will hear it from me!!!!

 

go to the service manager at wallys NOW with the paperwork from acura
Let them know its getting replaced, you dont want them touching it, and they can pay for the pan

dont expect any labor if a buddy is doing it UNLESS a real work order from a shop is made and paid
then they will reimburse you

The important thing is going to be cking the static/idle and running 3000rpm-5000rpm oil pressure
Its possible severe damage was done internally..granted the plug was still in--have seen some cars get 1/4 mile and plug is gone,,, with all the oil-
light comes on and owner drives it back to shop (this case was a dealer)- internal engine damage so bad dealer had to replace it whole!! rod bearings starved for oil,,engine lunging...
get it well inspected and documented,, should wallys be on the hook for the engine

they have insurance and a slush fund for this--you are far from the first!!

note for all= our oil drain plug torque is 29 foot pounds
less torque and it leaks.. while more rips the aluminum threads out,, onto the steel bolt

 

I just had a feeling it was low on oil, with the oil light intermittent like that.... do not drive when this happens, unless to get off the road safely.

 

Surprisingly, engines will run for some time with no oil. In my younger days, some friends of mine had a number of old clunkers and we decided to drain the oil (right into the grass !! ) and drove the thing around until it seized up. It ran for about 10 minutes before it actually started to squeak and then of course.....crunch.

However kids, this is something you would never try at home !!

 

engines of old had much looser rings and bearing clearances--heat would take a while to sieze them

a TL or other modern engine is running micro clearances
get a TL to redline temp once and its going to need head gasket--3 times and it needs new heads

run one low/without oil.....like I said before--serious damage to rod bearing and similar parts!
compression ck it immedialty cold and warm
on the cold do a 2nd test with a small shot of oil in the cylinder- called a wet test- if compression rises the rings are shot