Submariner2

never see anything like this on my 02 tl, my engine temperature gauge rise up all the way to the top during a stop and go traffic today, but after the road was clear and back to the normal speed my engine temperature drop about half to the middle, why is this happened.? is it time to change my coolant.? the coolant level is still full but i have never change it since 02 when i bought this car.

also, the cooling fan is always running after the car is stopped even when outside temperature is in the high 50s, so i've just noticed recently, anyone ever experience this before.? need your advice please.

totaledTL

That is abnormal. Once warmed it should stay stable. Could have air in the system, fooling the sensor. Do not drive it & risk overheating damage until repaired.

NSXNEXT

iTrader: (2)

Are you serious?

Go to the local Honda or Acura dealer and pick up some antifreeze.
I would also have someone test the thermostat, radiator cap, as well as the radiator fan switch.

Also have someone look at the hoses. 8+ years you are probably due to have the hoses replaced.

01tl4tl

coolant is a part of it, acura says 7 years on first coolant then 5 years on replacement
How many miles do you have?

the fan temp sendor in the lower passenger corner of rad has failed -thats why fan stays on at shutdown...see parts store
And fan is probably not running at idle- ck that out

Thermostat is a good possible,, as is radiator plugging
Your water pump may not be working well either

ck coolant level in rad when dead cold- should be at the filler neck
and the res bottle at its full mark
Ck hose inside res cap- it falls off and systm wont transfer fluid as needed

dont redline temp the TL!!!.. a few times of that and you bought a head gasket- at the least

Submariner2

just came back from the auto shop, total cost $272, flush coolant and thermostat replaced, looks like the problem went away.

totaledTL

That was kind of high- why didn't you do it yourself?

Submariner2

the coolant is the only part that i know how but all the other i am clueless, just want to get it done over the holiday since there are places i have to visit, thanks everyone for your help.

01tl4tl

did they use a honda/acura thermostat?
if not there may be problems-aftermarket part not suggested for this repair

Keep an eye on temp and watch for leaks--if thermo installed turned from correct position it wont seat and will cause a leak

flushed coolant? how- drained the radiator and engine block (hopefully)
or hooked in an old school system to the heater lines and ran tap water thru it?
what was done???
thats an extreme price for just thermo and coolant change

plus they probably did the ol 1 hour diagnostic charge to figure out what we already told you was bad,, plus labor to replace parts--

01tl4tl

ck the rad and res levels dead cold- sometimes shops dont burp it well enough and level will drop in rad
run heater to allow its contents to be part of the system too

Submariner2

i sat there waited for 3 and half hours as they worked on my car, the car was idle with engine on for 45 minutes, not sure if they use the genuine honda part for the thermo but from my previous brake job they used genuine honda part, here are the break down, $50 on honda type 2 antifreeze plus labor $40, thermo $38, thermo gasket $4, plus $90 labor on thermo with tax total $237. (i check my original post and there was a typo, it is $237 total not $272.)

i am not exactly a handyman like most of you guys here but i do change my own oil and tranny fluids, spark plugs will be my next project, from the pictures post in this forum looks like the challenge will be from the back.

01tl4tl

they bent you over on parts markup,, but thats the life of an auto shop trying to survive

Its fixed!! and it sat running in the shop while they burped it and made certain no overheating would occur- thats good

Sometimes there are jobs even I will pay someone else to do
I like the few remaining layers of skin on my hands, that and the back probs say let others do the heavy lifting these days
(hint: looking for my 209/916 locals to do the 105 for me- please PM)

01tl4tl

for your spark plug job- buy a 3 and 6 inch extensions and a proper plug socket with rubber or magnet inside to hang onto the plug
That will allow you to lower and remove the tool in sections,,much easier!

also buy 1 foot vac tubing to fit over the top end of plug- lower plug in and start by fingertip control.
Apply very small amount plug anti-sieze compound to middle threads.
Dont use so much it gets on tip or inside cylinders

you can remove the bar across the engine for easier access
Lay on a towel across engine or fender to save your back