Motor mount torque specs? 99 TL HELP!
#1
WNC Real Estate Sales99TL
Thread Starter
Motor mount torque specs? 99 TL HELP!
I know everyone says search the forums. I did but could not find the torque specs. for the side motor mount and the front mount (lower 4 bolts)
Can someone check their repair manual (I don't have one yet) and fill me in on the torque specs. that I need.
I received the new front and side mounts today from Acura and want to replace them tomorrow on Tues. Jan. 8th.
Some of the specs. from previous posts:
If your replacing the passenger side motor mount nothing has to be done)dont have to support engine). All you have to do is unbolt it and replace it. I would recomend unbolting the 1 single bolt that conects the motor to the mount first, then remove the 2 bolts that attach the other piece to the motor. After that then remove the 3 bolts that hold the mount it self and wiggle it out. then replace in reverse order
Originally Posted by pdprich
Front is easy, took me 30min.
place a car jack under your engine oil pan jack the engine up a little about 1 inch.
Disconnect the mount vacume line.
Remove 4 bolt at the bottom and one on the top of the mount.
Then remove the mount bracket from the engine block (3 bolt).
Remove mount
install new mount
reinstall the bottom 4 bolt
install the mount bracket (28lb/ft torques) (you might need to play around with the jack to reposition the engine to the mount)
reinstall mount top bolt (40 lb/ft torques).
reinstall vacume line
remove the jack.
drive the car around the block
then loosen and tighten the top bolt again
Can someone check their repair manual (I don't have one yet) and fill me in on the torque specs. that I need.
![Yes](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/yes.gif)
I received the new front and side mounts today from Acura and want to replace them tomorrow on Tues. Jan. 8th.
Some of the specs. from previous posts:
If your replacing the passenger side motor mount nothing has to be done)dont have to support engine). All you have to do is unbolt it and replace it. I would recomend unbolting the 1 single bolt that conects the motor to the mount first, then remove the 2 bolts that attach the other piece to the motor. After that then remove the 3 bolts that hold the mount it self and wiggle it out. then replace in reverse order
Originally Posted by pdprich
Front is easy, took me 30min.
place a car jack under your engine oil pan jack the engine up a little about 1 inch.
Disconnect the mount vacume line.
Remove 4 bolt at the bottom and one on the top of the mount.
Then remove the mount bracket from the engine block (3 bolt).
Remove mount
install new mount
reinstall the bottom 4 bolt
install the mount bracket (28lb/ft torques) (you might need to play around with the jack to reposition the engine to the mount)
reinstall mount top bolt (40 lb/ft torques).
reinstall vacume line
remove the jack.
drive the car around the block
then loosen and tighten the top bolt again
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Skeet33 (02-06-2018)
#2
Senior Moderator
side mount 40 lb/ft
front 40
front 40
#3
WNC Real Estate Sales99TL
Thread Starter
WOW what a difference after changing the front and side mount. The front mount was totally shot. Fluid started leaking from it when I turned it upside down to pull it out. The top on the front mount was very loose. Lots of play in it. There was no stability in the front mount at all. The passengers side mount rubber was starting to separate but was not totally broken.
The best part is the engine / drivetrain is much much smoother now. What a great improvement!
As for me replacing the mounts. It's quite easy as long as you have extentions to reach down to the front mount bolts. Having a racheting 14MM wrench to remove the front motor mount brackets really helped. I did take off the front mount that was bolted to the engine cause I didn't want to break or mess up anything else on the engine/drivetrain by jacking up the engine too far to get the mount out. It took an extra 30 mins. but better safe then sorry. The front bracket just wasn't lifting up far enough to get it off the front mount when I jacked up the engine. Passengers side mount was very easy to change.
Doing stuff like this makes me appreciate this site. Front and side mount shipped from a Georgia dealer were $122.00 for both. Guess I could have taken it to the Acura Dealership and paid $500.= NOT! I'm going to call them and see what they would quote me to do this job. I'll let you know.
The best part is the engine / drivetrain is much much smoother now. What a great improvement!
As for me replacing the mounts. It's quite easy as long as you have extentions to reach down to the front mount bolts. Having a racheting 14MM wrench to remove the front motor mount brackets really helped. I did take off the front mount that was bolted to the engine cause I didn't want to break or mess up anything else on the engine/drivetrain by jacking up the engine too far to get the mount out. It took an extra 30 mins. but better safe then sorry. The front bracket just wasn't lifting up far enough to get it off the front mount when I jacked up the engine. Passengers side mount was very easy to change.
Doing stuff like this makes me appreciate this site. Front and side mount shipped from a Georgia dealer were $122.00 for both. Guess I could have taken it to the Acura Dealership and paid $500.= NOT! I'm going to call them and see what they would quote me to do this job. I'll let you know.
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Cbble (04-14-2021)
#5
Senior Moderator
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Yea i would say that was shot
#6
Drifting
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How easy is replacing the mounts? Is it something I had best leave a shop to do? I want to get the innovative ones, but almost feel like I can't justify the price compared to OEM.
#7
WNC Real Estate Sales99TL
Thread Starter
What do you mean by innovative ones? Posts here recommend replacing with original Acura Mounts. They are vacuum controlled and cost 50 to 70$ each. Easy to order them by mail through Acura Dealerships.
As for you replacing the mounts, read the instructions above, go outside and raise the hood of your car and look at where the mounts are then determine if you have the right tools and enough knowledge to do the job. This is what is did before I decided to do the job myself and save $$$ by avoiding the Acura Stealership. It was easy for me but might not be for you depending on how much mechanical knowledge you have.
As for you replacing the mounts, read the instructions above, go outside and raise the hood of your car and look at where the mounts are then determine if you have the right tools and enough knowledge to do the job. This is what is did before I decided to do the job myself and save $$$ by avoiding the Acura Stealership. It was easy for me but might not be for you depending on how much mechanical knowledge you have.
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#8
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Innovative is a brand, a vendor here sells them, but they are something like $330 for an unproven mount, when the OEM ones are cheaper, and I won't be keeping the car forever anyways.
#10
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by Luke7
I would just stick with the OEM Acura Mounts.
The innovative mounts are a lifetime mount and in my opinion much better. I havent seen any one complain from them yet as far as loosing the vac assited part of the mount
#11
S E L L
My transmission is currently getting replaced (thank god for the extended warranty) and I was told I need the front and side mounts. The dealer quoted me about $300 for both installed. Is that too much or should I fight
them on the price?
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#12
WNC Real Estate Sales99TL
Thread Starter
When they have the Tranny out it would be (at the very MOST an hour of labor) for them to replace them. Lets' see if we look at retail price which they will charge you for the parts $150 then they are charging you $150 for an hour of labor. I say it's a little high but I have read posts on here that are higher for replacing the front and side mounts. The garage will be making $200+ dollars on that easy fix. Warranty doesn't cover these mounts?? The mounts cost about $125.00 delivered to your door. If you lived close by I'd come over and we could have them changed out in a little over an hour. But your 3000 miles away!
#13
S E L L
Originally Posted by Luke7
When they have the Tranny out it would be (at the very MOST an hour of labor) for them to replace them. Lets' see if we look at retail price which they will charge you for the parts $150 then they are charging you $150 for an hour of labor. I say it's a little high but I have read posts on here that are higher for replacing the front and side mounts. The garage will be making $200+ dollars on that easy fix. Warranty doesn't cover these mounts?? The mounts cost about $125.00 delivered to your door. If you lived close by I'd come over and we could have them changed out in a little over an hour. But your 3000 miles away!
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#14
No He Can't
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by fsttyms1
Actually the OEM ones are crap and most people are driving on broken ones and dont even know it. They dont last long. My front was shot within 15-20k.
The innovative mounts are a lifetime mount and in my opinion much better. I havent seen any one complain from them yet as far as loosing the vac assited part of the mount
The innovative mounts are a lifetime mount and in my opinion much better. I havent seen any one complain from them yet as far as loosing the vac assited part of the mount
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I'm ordering a set for my 99 when I do the 6 speed swap
#17
2000 TL Black on Beige
iTrader: (1)
My front lower and left mounts are shot.
I am relieved to know, actually. The slight shimmy under certain, repeatable conditions, now makes sense.
Acura quoted $675 this morning to replace both.
I'm going to buy them from http://www.acuraoemparts.com, $170 delivered.
Me and a friend will install them in a couple of weeks. I'll try to get pictures.
I am relieved to know, actually. The slight shimmy under certain, repeatable conditions, now makes sense.
Acura quoted $675 this morning to replace both.
I'm going to buy them from http://www.acuraoemparts.com, $170 delivered.
Me and a friend will install them in a couple of weeks. I'll try to get pictures.
#18
Senior Moderator
My front lower and left mounts are shot.
I am relieved to know, actually. The slight shimmy under certain, repeatable conditions, now makes sense.
Acura quoted $675 this morning to replace both.
I'm going to buy them from http://www.acuraoemparts.com, $170 delivered.
Me and a friend will install them in a couple of weeks. I'll try to get pictures.
I am relieved to know, actually. The slight shimmy under certain, repeatable conditions, now makes sense.
Acura quoted $675 this morning to replace both.
I'm going to buy them from http://www.acuraoemparts.com, $170 delivered.
Me and a friend will install them in a couple of weeks. I'll try to get pictures.
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
#20
Senior Moderator
Rough engagement into gear, rougher idle, less throttle response, damage to exhaust from the motor moving so much, possible damage to the axles, tearing of aftermarket intake mounts and in the worst case scenario your motor could fall out of the car. These things dont last long, the pattern i have seen is about 50k out of them.
#21
Hmm, good to know. Enough negative effects. I know where they are located, ive checked the sides out and have no clue whether they are worn or not. Today Ill take a closer look. I know i should be looking for worn rubber, but other than that...pretty much clueless.
Thanks for the quick reply.
Thanks for the quick reply.
#22
2000 TL Black on Beige
iTrader: (1)
And while it's up, the first thing the mech will notice is the motor mounts.
They'll bring it to your attention, and try to sell you on the job.
#25
Senior Moderator
Id place money on if they are original they are shot. They dont last long. The side you can visually see pretty easy. Look for brownish colored staining under the mount on the car, and look for tears in the rubber. Front is similar, look for tearing. Also have a friend get in the car start it up place it in gear and with his/her foot firmly on the brake slowly give it gas. If your motor moves a inch or more your front mount is done.
#26
2003 TL-p
yea then i think my rear is shot, cus i can push on the bumper with the car in Park and the engine moves more than an inch. rear is a pain to change. i hope my front and side are still good, they have less than 4k miles on them.
#27
Senior Moderator
Id replace the rear so that it doesnt tear up the front and side.
#28
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I'm going to give the Anchor mounts a shot. Hell for $100 shipped I get the front and right mount vs. $150+ for the crappy OEM ones.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...1379033k316352
Use MM3410 for an additional 5% off (put in how did you hear about us field)
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...1379033k316352
Use MM3410 for an additional 5% off (put in how did you hear about us field)
Last edited by NSXNEXT; 04-21-2010 at 12:29 PM.
#29
WNC Real Estate Sales99TL
Thread Starter
I order all my parts from this Georgia dealershipe. They always ship the same day and I receive parts in 2 days Fed Ex.
http://www.acuracarland.com/j/i/3166...rtsOnline.html
http://www.acuracarland.com/j/i/3166...rtsOnline.html
#31
2003 TL-p
I got a little problem, i just received my new front motor mount today.
When i shake the new mount, i can hear fluid sloshing around inside it. Is that normal?? The OEM mount i just pulled out does not make any sloshing noise when i shake it.
Duralast/Motor Mount
Part Number:14519
has anyone used these mounts, or used any after market oem replacement ones like DEA?
I am kinda with ends right now, should i install it??
thanks guys.
When i shake the new mount, i can hear fluid sloshing around inside it. Is that normal?? The OEM mount i just pulled out does not make any sloshing noise when i shake it.
Duralast/Motor Mount
Part Number:14519
has anyone used these mounts, or used any after market oem replacement ones like DEA?
I am kinda with ends right now, should i install it??
thanks guys.
#32
Senior Moderator
I dont remember if you can hear the fluid or not. But you not hearing it on yours doesnt surprise me, it probably all leaked out.
Poly fill/window weld the new ones before putting them in. Thats what i would do.
Poly fill/window weld the new ones before putting them in. Thats what i would do.
#33
2003 TL-p
what do you mean by window weld? is it a quick weld job i can do at home?
#35
Senior Moderator
#36
I got a little problem, i just received my new front motor mount today.
When i shake the new mount, i can hear fluid sloshing around inside it. Is that normal?? The OEM mount i just pulled out does not make any sloshing noise when i shake it.
Duralast/Motor Mount
Part Number:14519
has anyone used these mounts, or used any after market oem replacement ones like DEA?
I am kinda with ends right now, should i install it??
thanks guys.
When i shake the new mount, i can hear fluid sloshing around inside it. Is that normal?? The OEM mount i just pulled out does not make any sloshing noise when i shake it.
Duralast/Motor Mount
Part Number:14519
has anyone used these mounts, or used any after market oem replacement ones like DEA?
I am kinda with ends right now, should i install it??
thanks guys.
#37
2003 TL-p
how do you like the duralst mount? it seems ok to me.
#38
#39
2003 TL-p
i am into performance but not racing (at least not with having an auto tranny), i just want this problem over with. it seems to be working pretty well, i dont get a thud anymore when i change from D5 to R or P to R/D5. the ETD from ingalls seems to work pretty well. i do drive in sorta hilly terrain with lots of start outs on hills at low to medium (3-4k) rpm. i think that kills the mounts pretty fast. i plan on poly filling them in a while, which should firm things up nicely which i wont mind.
#40
Advanced
Gold2003tl...just curious but you changed the rear mount and got rid of your thud/vibration? I just replaced my front and side but I still have shudder at idle in drive/reverse