Doc Holliday

This winter my car started idling hard... So, I seafoamed the gas, vac line to the TB, cleaned the EGR Valve and the TB, and then changed my oil and filter in the hopes that it would solve the problem....

It didn't... but I'm sure it was good for it anyway lol

The car is nice an responsive, but the rough idle is still there because it's the front and rear motor mounts...

My question is if the front mount one is more responsible for the rough idle or are they both equally as responsible?

It's time to part ways with my TL and when people come to look at it, I want it to sit smooth on idle and I'll just let them know if they want to do the rear later... I don't want to put too much money in it before we part ways.

Just seeing if I can get away with getting the front one with a vac line... I noticed some say hydraulic, but I don't see the vac line...

Nicks2001tl

Sorry to see your selling your car. The vacuum line as your looking at the mount from the top is on the right side of the bottom of the mount.


The oem mounts are known to be bad. Disconnecting the vacuum line will give it a rougher idle.

Doc Holliday

Me too... I love my car... been in it for 11 yrs....

I'm just wondering if I should get the front mount with the vac line done and see if that fixes the rough idle by itself? or if it's mainly the rear one that you would feel in the cabin at idle?

Nicks2001tl

If the front mount is damaged, cracked replace it if not just leave it be. Check the side mount for cracks also. Rough idle could be a bunch of things egr ports, spark plugs etc. Every time a car is sold it is in as is condition. Tell the potential buyer about the rough idle and leave it at that. Give the new buyer as much info as possible and tell them about acurazine.


Good luck!

Doc Holliday

Yeah, I'm going to throw her up on craigslist just to see... I'm going to try for 6k and expect they'll bargain me down... I was going to throw another hundred or two in the hopes that I could get more for it instead of much less than 5k and not give the buyer as much of a bargaining chip... I'll probably put it up for sale on here too and that would be great because ppl here would take care of er'...

Thank you for your replies

ErickUa5

First thing is does it have a CEL (Check Engine Light) ?

Doc Holliday

No... actually it did after I seafoamed everything, but I pulled the clock fuse and reset everything after driving it around and it hasn't come back on and that was a couple days ago...

Runs smooth and responsive with the exception of the rough idle... It idles and makes the dash rattle... annoying as hell... my steering wheel also vibrates.... only when it drops to about 500rpm

If I can get away with changing just one of the mounts... I would be happy, but I don't want to change one then have to get another... The mechanic said they both aren't holding air... but if one is responsible for the vibration in the steering wheel/dash... I'll do that one first... Hopefully, it would be the front one, but logically I'm sure it's the rear lol... I'm only guessing because it's closer to the cabin.

ErickUa5

Ok 500 rpm is low its supposed to be around 650 or 750, regardless if the mounts were bad or not you definitely have an issue at idle, putting a new mount might not solve the issue.
What work have you done to it ?
If none I recommend cleaning the throttle body plate and IACV and while at it Clean out the EGR ports, all that helped a bunch with idle vibrations.

Doc Holliday

I did all that the other day lol... maybe it is at 650 I have to go check... It just started like a week ago... I would have noticed

when the rpm's are higher at idle it's smooth and fine... it's only when it dips... for some reason my idle isn't constant... It's a little higher till it warms up... then sometimes at stop lights it will vibrate more than others when the rpm's get lower

ErickUa5

The rear mount is labor intensive the front one is much easier, more than likely the front one is bad.

Doc Holliday

Yeah, I may just throw money at the front mount to see if it fixes it, so when ppl test drive it... It won't rattle the damn dash on idle...

Otherwise, if I was going to keep it I would just buy all of them in a kit and get it done...

01tl4tl

so a mechanic has diagnosed by visual and prybar testing of the mounts with the car in the air? is that correct?

the front usually goes first, goes unnoticed for several months- all the while the passenger side mount takes the extra load
Sometime after that the rear finally gives up from its additional load

you can look on the driveway for small drops of a weird oil
also look up at the mounts from under the car
see any oil trail along the mount?
and the vacuum lines- connected- not fell off etc?
there are many pics on here of good and bad mounts, the front one looks collapsed when failed
front and rear are vac boosted- when mount fails you get a freaky idle-vac leak problem
thats what the tech means by wont hold air
the fix is to replace the needed mounts,,not guess,verify and buy

there are aftermarket mounts or oe from one of our sponsor dealers
the pass side mount is a normal type 50$ unit

there are many ziners in your area that can help diy the mounts in a few hours,
shops are crazy price

01tl4tl

did any of this start after the egr service?
the upper-most gasket under the cover plate can be installed upside down
it looks right and fits but blocks a crucial port in the upper part of cover, match gasket to cover plate to be sure
causes idle prob, possible cel etc

with all the cool things on your car, to have any problems would make buyers very wary
why such a nice ride and you want to sell it with severe idle issue?
is it that expensive, or you are not really sure whats wrong or cant fix it,,,,,,thats going thru buyers minds

Doc Holliday

I threw money at it... Ok I had two drops of weird oil on the paper from sitting overnight... When I looked under the car... It was wet, so the mechanic without properly wiping it down said it was the rear main and also leaking from the gasket above the oil filter... He also said the front and rear motor mounts weren't holding air...

So Before I seafoamed... It helped with the rough idle a little... Then had them clean everything TB, EGR, etc... then I had them do the front mount and fix the gasket above the oil filter.... No change... I still get a rough idle sometimes that makes the dash rattle slightly... I had them clean under the car to see if it still leaks after the new motor mount... It's not that bad of a shake and it only happens sporadically at a red light or so... I don't think I want to throw any more money at it... If the leak is stopped... I'll just let whoever buys it do the rear mount if the idle bothers them or replace the iacv... I love this damn car... but I know it's time

Doc Holliday

I wished you or fttsms lived here in Texas... Solve all the problems fast and drink a beer or five!

I have no idea what car I'm going to get next.... I wonder how the new TLX will be... but I never really cared for the newer TL body styles... I like my white spaceship

Doc Holliday

To answer your question... I'm not really sure what's wrong and can't fix it so far... just becoming a money drain because the tech isn't diagnosing things properly causing me to throw money at it.... pisses me off...

If anyone knows a good honest mechanic that doesn't half ass the job in Dallas... My family and I will be customers for life

It's been a long while since I've had any issues with my car because I keep up with it pretty good... or so I thought... I should have done the ingall's bar to make the mounts last longer... The next things to go is going to be the cat... then a good timing belt job will need to be done... last one was in '08 but I haven't driven it that much or hard... about 11k per yr.... and I'm always keeping an eye on the transmission... Did the flush earlier this year... brakes were done too... so it should be good to sell if I can get this this idle back under control...

I wasn't there when they were working on it and honestly I hate when ppl touch my car unless it would be a ziner... I want to make sure they cleaned the IACV or I may just have them replace it... I do hear a slight ticking from that one thing closer to the cabin, but I think it's been like that for a while before the rough idle.

ErickUa5

Anyway of getting the problem on video ?

Doc Holliday

Yeah, I was thinking of doing that... I'll take one tomorrow of it... pisses me off when I don't have a good mechanic... This guy lost one of the screws to my engine cover and replaced another one with an odd looking chrome screw lol... I'm not super picky about the way it looks under the hood, but I don't like when people touch my car to begin with... and this new guy isn't diagnosing things properly at all... Just half assing it and being careless. He forgot to put my pcv valve on while the cover was off too because the new one was still in the cup holder...

I wish I learned how to work on them myself... Now, I don't have time to learn unless I take my days off to do it and then my gf would bitch up a storm lol... I'd be a tool buyin' son of a gun!

ajhale

Doc Holiday, have you tried testing for movement of the engine. Here's a video from another mount thread a while back showing how much his engine moved under load < >. Here's the entire thread <https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=820188>

Good luck. I am doing my 105K service now and had to replace my obviously busted side mount, which came apart as I removed it.

3.2TLc

Hey Ajhale, ya should take a good look at the front mount also.....probably shot !!!

chris03tl

Sorta related so I figured I wouldnt start a new thread:

Our car has been vibrating at idle for a while. I ran through the service manual procedure for motor mount test and it came down to one of the motor mounts being bad (or the solenoid itself...more on that later)

After removing the top hose and putting vacuum to it, it wouldnt hold at all. So one or both of the front and rear were bad. For the heck of it, I pinched off the line that went to the rear, and now the system holds vacuum. To me, that means the rear is busted....does that make sense? With the rear line pinched off, when I apply vacuum I can actually hear the front "inflating". Also, with the car running now, the vibrations are at least slightly less, so Im getting somewhere. It doesnt seem common that the rear goes out by itself, but I can only narrow it down to the hard line going to the rear mount, or the rubber hose going to the rear mount (since I cant get replacement lines any closer than that).

As far as the solenoid, I continued the FSM test and the last step, where I was supposed to see manifold vacuum at idle (I did) rev the engine above 1000RPM, I saw the vacuum reading drop to zero on the gauge. FSM says replace solenoid at that point. Do I need to do that in addition to replacing the motor mount?

3.2TLc

If your TL has over 100k and still has the original mounts.....chances are good they are shot. This is a common problem with our TL's. There are aftermarket mounts available for much less than the price of OEM's. The vac system can be eliminated with the performance solid mounts.

The vac-assist mount system was a luxury enhanced ride feature engineered for varying conditions. But now with our cars showing their age with over 100k.....it's not so important, IMO. If ya got the FSM for info and want the original ride, then just replace everything !!!

chris03tl

I dont mind bringing it back to original ride specs, but per the FSM Im not sure I need all of the mounts. Why spend extra on something I dont need, since the front mount seems to be holding vacuum just fine.

Just from reading around here, it seems odd that only the rear mount would go, which is why Im asking if my diagnosis seemed correct.

My whole goal is to remove the vibration, so I would worry that aftermarket solid mounts would make it the same (or even worse). Looking to the near future when I may end up selling it, a nice luxury "cant tell its running at a stop light" feel is a good selling point

ErickUa5

Reverse pulls up on the rear mount plus all the heat and age it has to give up at some point, when I replaced mine with oem the difference was night and day.

Doc Holliday

I just got mine in... I'm going to change all of them and see how it does, but yeah I did the test under load and it moved a ton.... this is my second set of mounts in 11 yrs... guess that's not too bad

BoriTL

You ever replace that solenoid??

johnep

I replaced my front but still had the rough idle. I did the rear,what a drag. That was the bad one. Idles nice and smooth now.

Levithan9

Hey Doc Holliday....

I'm an ASE Certified auto tech. I'll be in the Dallas area on the 16th-17th of this month. Going to see Eric Johnson @ the Granada theater !!

If you want, I can bring some tools, my Snap-On scanner, and we can see just WHAT-THE-FUCK is going on with your car.

PM me if you want to hook up.