yes i searched..


so this morning while i was driving my TL and my brake pedal went to floor. the car still stops, but if i had to do a panic stop, i would crash lol.

the brake fluid is full so im not too sure where to start. im a noob at diagnosing things like this.

i dont think its an air bubble because i never took the cap off the tank. i do need to replace my rear pads, but i doubt that would cause the pedal to go to the floor.

any input is appreciated

thanks in advance

Bryan

 

The happened to me too...but on a hill stopped on a red light.

I literally had to keep my foot pressed very hard so that my car wouldn't move and hit the van in front of me. I was pressing it so hard I thought I was going bend the un-breakable metal that is essentially my brake pedal. At one point I was using both feet because every time i breathed in air, the car moved. No Joke.

 

what did you do to get it fixed?

 

Do anyone work on your brake before and not bleed it ? You might have air in the system. You said that the fluid is full so it's not leaking then.

 

I didn't do anything to get it fixed...it just stopped.

yes, someone did work on my brakes, calipers and rotors were changed and thats all.

 

Sounds like the master cyl. could be to blame.

 

new calipers can result in trapped air in the ABS controller that wont get out till you do an abs active stop- then it gets to a caliper to be bled out--messes up the pedal till then
Correct bleed order is critical and if a shop did the work the tech may not have known
LF RF RR LR

Moisture in the system occurs naturally and degrades the fluid- makes rust particles
-lose pedal pressure
flush brake fluid every year

Pedal goes to floor- likely suspect master cylinder
did mine at about 80kmiles--85 bucks

try giving it a few quick pumps -does that improve pedal- now hold it firm while stopped- -does it slide down to the floor? master cyl

 

wow, you guys wont believe this


so i had a local mechanic do my rear pads a year and half ago since im not too sure how to do the rear brakes with the e-brake and all

brother had driven my car because he was getting new tires on his truck

i look at my right rear rotor/pad and see that the rotor is grinded away and the pad is gone!!!!!!!!! WTF??

i start the car and the brake light is on

ffffffuuuuu

i asked him what happened and he said nothing.

i dont see how i wouldnt have noticed the vibration of the rotor being grinded away, but now im S.O.L.

would anything have been damaged if the brake light is on?

i am really dumbfounded by this. i asked him how far he drove and i still havent gotten a straight answer. fuck. last time i let my 30 yr old brother drive my car

would any type of hard driving cause this?

 

wow

 

yea

how the fuck do you not notice that

now i need to buy new rotors/pads and see if any sensors are messed up since the brake light is on

 

sounds like a stuck `on` caliper caused the pad to wear out and eat into the rotor
More related to not changing brake fluid,, than hard driving
but calipers wear out for many reasons

the park brake shoes inside rear rotors are no big deal during brake jobs

Driver Must have been enjoying the tunes~

Note to all- some pad makers use the wrong pad backing for the rear inner pad
It should have a small raised tab at each end of the pad- 1 holds the noise maker tab for low level warning--the other is just there doing nothing
If you have the right pads!!

If you have the wrong pads:
there will be a 3rd raised tab in the top center
This gets pushed on by the caliper piston and pad is pushed crooked against the rotor--
wears on half the width of the rotor and not the other-
only partial pad contact to rotor would eat pads faster because of less actual material contact to rotor- and easy to see how that would also grind into the rotor
Inspect the rear inner pads for 3 tabs

You can ck your inner side of rear rotors visaully from looking under the car
If there is crust on half the rotor width and clean shiny on the other half- pad has raised tab
remove pad and grind off offending bit

 

thank you for the advice

i follow a lot of your posts and you are, by far, one of the more knowledgeable members on this forum

i guess a rotor/pad/brake fluid flush are on my things to do

 

ck the inner pad situation for the extra tab- that will mess you up bad~

MANY pad makers are still using the wrong backing plate on TL pads!!
including hawk!
its for RL with a different park brake system that needs that 3rd tab- for us its bad news--pads fit- everything seems to work...looks ok,,,but not right

 

If the caliper is extended too far- the fluid level drops in the master and triggers a red warning light

Ck master cyl fluid level
Sometimes the slide inside the master cap gets gummed or stuck and gives false low reading --new cap 35$,,,complete master with new cap $85 online

 

My wife has 09 MDX 200k miles , took for a store run and WTF brake paddle falls all the way back but brakes(not like it was before, no time normal)

Bleed her brakes ( no change/when you make couple pumps it feels stiffer but still falls all the way back.
Talked to my buddies all said replace calipers, went to the store to buy calipers guy tells me it’s not calipers it’s master, so I order master, replace, bleed and nothing changes😡
Any recommendation?

 

Probably best to stop throwing parts at the problem and have it professionally diagnosed and repaired.