limp mode
#1
limp mode
So my car went into limp mode while i was on the freeway. I read on the forum that if you take the vsa fuse out it will run for temporary. Well it didnt so i put the fuse back in and still getting the vsa light and /!\ light on. My codes are 83-1 94-1 97-1. This is my first newer car. I've worked on plenty civics and integras. But this one im stuck on.
#3
what exactly are you driving? Those are not normal codes we see in a 99-2003 TL
Limp mode is when the ECU thinks there was an over-rev (among other things)
A slipping transmission will give it the same effect and trick the computer
Limp mode is when the ECU thinks there was an over-rev (among other things)
A slipping transmission will give it the same effect and trick the computer
#4
Ck the trans fluid color and smell, how long since changed, any other symptoms besides it suddenly wont go over 3000 rpm
#5
Im driving a 2002 TL Type S. I thought it was the transmission also so i did the av6 swap and no luck still same symptoms. But before i pulled the main vsa fuse the /!\ and vsa wasnt on.
#6
how did you get those codes?
You may want to post them and any symptoms in the main AV6 swap thread for more help
You may want to post them and any symptoms in the main AV6 swap thread for more help
#7
Verify- it wont rev over 3000 rpm while driving? that's LIMP mode
have you reset the ecu by pulling the CLOCK fuse? passenger end of dash or lower foot panel
remove for 1 minute then insert fully
I have never seen anything about pulling any other fuse -to get you home-
any chance it really has been over-revved? with the trans change you lose the rev limiter- is that correct?
loose valves can make contact with a piston and send it into limp mode too
have you reset the ecu by pulling the CLOCK fuse? passenger end of dash or lower foot panel
remove for 1 minute then insert fully
I have never seen anything about pulling any other fuse -to get you home-
any chance it really has been over-revved? with the trans change you lose the rev limiter- is that correct?
loose valves can make contact with a piston and send it into limp mode too
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#8
Yes its in limp mode
Yes i know i did the av6 swap correctly
And yes when i was driving on the freeway i tried to full throttle it and it sent me in limp mode.
I thought it was the coil packs so i changed them all out
And no i have not reset the ecm
Also i dropped my car off at honda thats how i got my codes
Yes i know i did the av6 swap correctly
And yes when i was driving on the freeway i tried to full throttle it and it sent me in limp mode.
I thought it was the coil packs so i changed them all out
And no i have not reset the ecm
Also i dropped my car off at honda thats how i got my codes
#9
without a reset of the ecu and a new scan....
you MUST reset the ecu after new coils so it knows they are installed
the clock fuse removal method works perfect for this reset
you MUST reset the ecu after new coils so it knows they are installed
the clock fuse removal method works perfect for this reset
#10
google the codes and ck in our diy section for the code list
#12
Did it drive home at all?
so back to the question: what did you do right before this happened?
any possibility you went over redline?
timing belt changed in last 75kmiles?
valves ever adjusted?
do you have the accord trans or a 6 speed manual?
Honda dealer started the engine and it was not seen to have a serious problem?
I would be looking at spark plugs for indication of internal problem, compression test
and more depending on what those find
IF you bent a valve or several/maybe timing belt has slipped of a tooth,- it wont run right no matter what you try
how does the oil look? and coolant is full in rad and at cold mark in reserve bottle,,all the usual things are ckd?
so back to the question: what did you do right before this happened?
any possibility you went over redline?
timing belt changed in last 75kmiles?
valves ever adjusted?
do you have the accord trans or a 6 speed manual?
Honda dealer started the engine and it was not seen to have a serious problem?
I would be looking at spark plugs for indication of internal problem, compression test
and more depending on what those find
IF you bent a valve or several/maybe timing belt has slipped of a tooth,- it wont run right no matter what you try
how does the oil look? and coolant is full in rad and at cold mark in reserve bottle,,all the usual things are ckd?
#13
Yeah
Right before this happend i was on the freeway doing 60 put it in 3rd with sport shift didnt even reach redline then limp mode came on. I have no clue when the last tune was made i bought the car at 200k. And they said ecm/ pcm. I recently put new plugs and coil pack in it havent even ran it for 20 miles. Yes i checked all fluids oil ia good coolant is good and transmission fluid is good. I feel like it might of jumped timing. Im gonna drop it off at a foreign motor shop. If it cost more than 600 im puting in a low mile jdm j32
Right before this happend i was on the freeway doing 60 put it in 3rd with sport shift didnt even reach redline then limp mode came on. I have no clue when the last tune was made i bought the car at 200k. And they said ecm/ pcm. I recently put new plugs and coil pack in it havent even ran it for 20 miles. Yes i checked all fluids oil ia good coolant is good and transmission fluid is good. I feel like it might of jumped timing. Im gonna drop it off at a foreign motor shop. If it cost more than 600 im puting in a low mile jdm j32
#14
Pro
The J engine is made here in the USA. Designed and manufactured in Ohio. There is no such thing as a JDM J engine. Just some good useful information.
Why take it to a shop? You can check timing yourself by taking off both top plastic timing covers which is easier than looking thru the peep hole imo.
Why take it to a shop? You can check timing yourself by taking off both top plastic timing covers which is easier than looking thru the peep hole imo.
#15
so the reality here may be a 200kmile timing belt that was pushed beyond its remaining limits...
I agree- pull a plastic cover or the inspection plugs on rear of covers
If that's what happened its cheaper to get a good used engine, do the tbelt wp valve adjust etc to it and drop in.
I agree- pull a plastic cover or the inspection plugs on rear of covers
If that's what happened its cheaper to get a good used engine, do the tbelt wp valve adjust etc to it and drop in.
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