Knocking sensor, Shakes and Unstable RPM ...?
Hi, I will try to be precise as possible so people will actually read this post and reply back because I am depressed and in need of assistance ...
I bought a 2000 TL 8 months ago that had 140K miles from second owner who bought that when it had 17K miles. According to lady she took it to the Honda dealership for all the maintenance.
Everything was fine except the car shakes when it changes the gear at about 30-40 MPH ... I tried to explain it here and someone suggested " 3 x drain and fill tranny fluid change " well I did that once and paid 175$ so I can't afford to do it 2 more times unless it will solve the problem for sure ...
Few days ago the "Check Engine Light" came with the "TCS" so I panicked and my friend suggested to take it to the Acura dealership in Twin Cities.... They came up with ...
1. P0325 Knock Sensor and P0900 ALT System Malfunction.
2. P1740 Fourth Gear Pressure Switch.
They gave me an estimate of $850 to do that job so obviously I declined.
Came back to Rochester took it to the Honda dealership they came up with an estimate of $250. They replaced the pressure switch and said " Proceed to replace the knock sensor and found wire damage. Remove upper intake and found wires broken and chewed, knock sensor and sub harness would need to replaced. Estimate is $420 to remove intake, replace sub harness and knock sensor". I declined again so my friend offered me to do that for $200 bucks and he is going to that on Tuesday.
I already spent $350 and I don't see any change. My biggest fear is transmission failure ....
1: Currently The car shakes when it changes the gear at around 35Mph
2: The RPM is acting weird ... When you try to drive it at a stable speed it goes a little bit up and down ... not too much but noticeable.
Please suggest me to fix these two issues .... Thanks.
I bought a 2000 TL 8 months ago that had 140K miles from second owner who bought that when it had 17K miles. According to lady she took it to the Honda dealership for all the maintenance.
Everything was fine except the car shakes when it changes the gear at about 30-40 MPH ... I tried to explain it here and someone suggested " 3 x drain and fill tranny fluid change " well I did that once and paid 175$ so I can't afford to do it 2 more times unless it will solve the problem for sure ...
Few days ago the "Check Engine Light" came with the "TCS" so I panicked and my friend suggested to take it to the Acura dealership in Twin Cities.... They came up with ...
1. P0325 Knock Sensor and P0900 ALT System Malfunction.
2. P1740 Fourth Gear Pressure Switch.
They gave me an estimate of $850 to do that job so obviously I declined.
Came back to Rochester took it to the Honda dealership they came up with an estimate of $250. They replaced the pressure switch and said " Proceed to replace the knock sensor and found wire damage. Remove upper intake and found wires broken and chewed, knock sensor and sub harness would need to replaced. Estimate is $420 to remove intake, replace sub harness and knock sensor". I declined again so my friend offered me to do that for $200 bucks and he is going to that on Tuesday.
I already spent $350 and I don't see any change. My biggest fear is transmission failure ....
1: Currently The car shakes when it changes the gear at around 35Mph
2: The RPM is acting weird ... When you try to drive it at a stable speed it goes a little bit up and down ... not too much but noticeable.
Please suggest me to fix these two issues .... Thanks.
Sounds like your trans is on its way out. Drain and fills you can do. Its easier than oil changes.
The knock sensor wires were probably damaged by a mouse or something (has happened to others) and may solve he rpm issue. Also i might find different friends if one is charging you 200 to do the repairs.
The knock sensor wires were probably damaged by a mouse or something (has happened to others) and may solve he rpm issue. Also i might find different friends if one is charging you 200 to do the repairs.
^ yea to be honest fixing that chewed up harness for a friend shouldnt cost more than 100. ive dont it all the time. mice love that warm area and then they chew up the harness. no big deal. fixing the knock should definately help with the rpm's. the pressure switch you should look to find it on oemacuraparts.com and buy it there and have ur friend or someone else install it. its pretty easy to do yourself if your a diy guy. if u need any help just ask.

I will go to the Car Fix today or to the Honda dealership as a last option and Post what happens afterwards.
You were right ... After waiting 5 days from him to be free and fix the car plus giving him money 5 days in advance He didn't fix the car because he was busy fixing a ford truck ... My luck. I am new to this City so I should think hard before considering someone my friend.
I will go to the Car Fix today or to the Honda dealership as a last option and Post what happens afterwards.

I will go to the Car Fix today or to the Honda dealership as a last option and Post what happens afterwards.
Thank God, finally knock sensor and the harness has been replaced. NO Check Engine Light and NO TCS. The car is running fine BUT it still does the same old thing .... One out of Ten times it shakes when it changes the gear around 30-40 mph. Its very annoying.
Like You guys suggested to do the Transmission Flush so I will take it to the Acura dealership for that, however I just did the transmission flush 5K miles ago from local Honda dealership but they used machine (Power Flush) which I heard is bad so I will try the Acura this time.
Anything else I should consider before doing that ....?
Like You guys suggested to do the Transmission Flush so I will take it to the Acura dealership for that, however I just did the transmission flush 5K miles ago from local Honda dealership but they used machine (Power Flush) which I heard is bad so I will try the Acura this time.
Anything else I should consider before doing that ....?
All right guys ... Drain and flush has been done. I changed the spark plugs with NGK Iridium, old ones were pretty bad. Plus changed oil with Mobile 1 Synthetic. To my surprise now the transmission is acting good, It doesn't shake like it use to
.
The rpm is fairly stable but not super stable, sometime fluctuate ~200 at stable speed without any reason ... Any Idea how to fix that ....?
Thanks.
. The rpm is fairly stable but not super stable, sometime fluctuate ~200 at stable speed without any reason ... Any Idea how to fix that ....?
Thanks.
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Clean your IACV. It controls idle and causes rpms to dance around. Its located on the bottom of the TB held on by 2 screws. Take it off clean it add a small dab of wd40 or silicone to it before reinstalling it.
Is it possible to take off the IACV without taking off the whole TB itself?
I had to clean that as well due to a idle control issue. Now no more issue after the cleaning!
O.K so I have to clean the IAVC ... since I have very limited knowledge about engines and stuff so it will take me a while to figure out how to do it but I will do it by myself.
If I am not mistaken IAVCs main purpose is to control the IDLE ... My cars IDLE is just fine. The rpm is only unstable when You drive it. >>> The rpm drops 200-500 and then you can feel the engine grinding, whining, humming and after a second or two the rpm goes back up the engine runs fine then it drops back again <<<
I will clean the IAVC for sure but do I have to clean the The Throttle Body too ...?
and Thanks for the suggestion.
If I am not mistaken IAVCs main purpose is to control the IDLE ... My cars IDLE is just fine. The rpm is only unstable when You drive it. >>> The rpm drops 200-500 and then you can feel the engine grinding, whining, humming and after a second or two the rpm goes back up the engine runs fine then it drops back again <<<
I will clean the IAVC for sure but do I have to clean the The Throttle Body too ...?
and Thanks for the suggestion.
O.K so I have to clean the IAVC ... since I have very limited knowledge about engines and stuff so it will take me a while to figure out how to do it but I will do it by myself.
If I am not mistaken IAVCs main purpose is to control the IDLE ... My cars IDLE is just fine. The rpm is only unstable when You drive it. >>> The rpm drops 200-500 and then you can feel the engine grinding, whining, humming and after a second or two the rpm goes back up the engine runs fine then it drops back again <<<
I will clean the IAVC for sure but do I have to clean the The Throttle Body too ...?
If I am not mistaken IAVCs main purpose is to control the IDLE ... My cars IDLE is just fine. The rpm is only unstable when You drive it. >>> The rpm drops 200-500 and then you can feel the engine grinding, whining, humming and after a second or two the rpm goes back up the engine runs fine then it drops back again <<<
I will clean the IAVC for sure but do I have to clean the The Throttle Body too ...?
. If all you need to do is clean is the IACV, and assuming you can remove it w/o having to take off the TB, it should be a pretty damn easy process. There's a whole DIY to remove TB (DIY for thermoblock spacers i believe it was).
its best to take it off (but you need to buy the new gasket first) but it can be done with it on. I cleaned mine with it on, BUT i removed the whole upper intake with the tb attached and cleaned the EGR ports so cleaning the tb was pretty easy with the whole mani off.
O.K so I have to clean the IAVC ... since I have very limited knowledge about engines and stuff so it will take me a while to figure out how to do it but I will do it by myself.
If I am not mistaken IAVCs main purpose is to control the IDLE ... My cars IDLE is just fine. The rpm is only unstable when You drive it. >>> The rpm drops 200-500 and then you can feel the engine grinding, whining, humming and after a second or two the rpm goes back up the engine runs fine then it drops back again <<<
I will clean the IAVC for sure but do I have to clean the The Throttle Body too ...?
and Thanks for the suggestion.
If I am not mistaken IAVCs main purpose is to control the IDLE ... My cars IDLE is just fine. The rpm is only unstable when You drive it. >>> The rpm drops 200-500 and then you can feel the engine grinding, whining, humming and after a second or two the rpm goes back up the engine runs fine then it drops back again <<<
I will clean the IAVC for sure but do I have to clean the The Throttle Body too ...?
and Thanks for the suggestion.
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