Intake Manifold Removal Questions!

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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 06:31 PM
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Intake Manifold Removal Questions!

Hey guys i have a few questions before removing Intake Manifold i just want to make sure i do everything properly so i dont break anything because im new at this. Btw ive read every DIY still dont catch some things.

1. Would i need to change my gasket.

2. Whats the abreviation TB and butterfly mean because its used alot but dont know what it is.

3. The mega moderator fsttyms1 posted a picture of the injector ports and egr main valve. would i need to remove that to or i just clean the top part of the gasket.


Thanks for help. This site already increased my knowledge so much.
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 06:39 PM
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so you are doing the EGR port cleaning?

TB is Throttle Body assembly -complete
Butterfly is the round air plate inside the TB that opens with throttle application
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 06:45 PM
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egr port cleaning

Thank you. Yea remember you told me to clean my manifold. I went to buy 4 cans of carb cleaner i removed the engine cover, unscrewed the 10 screws from that plate. but my next step is to remove all the hoses amd one sensor right and then what i take the top part of the manifold off but then what? im confused because ive never done anything like this before.
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 07:35 PM
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Just be very careful with the gasket, not to bend it, and you can re-use it.
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 08:57 PM
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Once you remove the upper intake manifold start cleaning the egr ports and all the carbon buildup.
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 11:10 PM
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Thats where im confused. Are the egr ports on the upper part of the manifold or like the picture on the DIY u posted.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 02:39 PM
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Hey guys, how many gaskets do i need to replace?? The dealer showed me like a bunch of them?? i bought only the main one but the other ones i said if i need ill be back do i really need them???
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 06:27 PM
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Your re-use them. Only the TB gasket has to be replaced if remove, but you don't need to remove the TB for this.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 06:36 PM
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to clean everything and rinse the manifold properly- you need to seperate the TB from manifold

you run solvent thru the mouth of the manifold- thats where the TB attaches
and thru every port and runner,,anything that isnt shiny now--see if there is crud on it

you can even remove the -plenum covers- those long valve cover looking things on the sides of manifold, and clean in there too

They look great polished, and leave the plastic engine dress cover off
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 05:12 PM
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I remove the plenums when doing EGR.

And to OP, there is more than just those bolts and hoses...Theres a few vac lines, coolant hoses, throttle cables, and there is more than one sensor....I believe there is 3 or 4.
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 06:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Avo.gin
Thats where im confused. Are the egr ports on the upper part of the manifold or like the picture on the DIY u posted.
When you remove the upper cover its the 6 small holes, and the track in the upper cover. You take the IM off so that you can rinse out the gunk so it doesnt go into the motor. Dont remove the TB, that is the only gasket that isnt reusable. The others are. Make note of how the upper gasket comes off, it is directional.
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 05:33 PM
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Hi Avo.gin :

I do not removed the throttle body when I take off the intake manifold.

Simply removed the two bolts and two nuts fixing the intake to the throttle body. Then remove all the intake bolts connector and vac lines. Gently pick up the left side of the TB and the intake will slide out to the left leaving the TB still attached to all it's connectors. Installation exactly the same, angle the intake slightly down on the right side to mate up with the TB and then line up all the intake studs.

It cuts the job in half and reduces the opportunity of missed connectors etc.

smartypants.
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 11:29 PM
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or while its apart- take the TB off to clean iacv and throttle spring assembly
Lube the throttle and cruise cables- it helps
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 11:30 PM
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some find it very difficult to reach the rear lower TB bolt-
easier to pull the whole thing out than mess with a bolt you might break off and have real problems~
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 12:28 AM
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Im doing the cleaning this saturday. i was thinking to clean IACV also but dont know where its located and how it looks like...
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Old Sep 3, 2010 | 04:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Avo.gin
Im doing the cleaning this saturday. i was thinking to clean IACV also but dont know where its located and how it looks like...
The IACV is attached to the bottom of the throttle body with two phillips head screws. Be careful with the IACV's gasket as it is rubber. If you plan to remove the throttle body from the manifold, you will have to order a new throttle body gasket anyway so you might as well replace the IACV gasket too.
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 07:22 PM
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on 8/31 it was noted that the plenum cover could be removed too. If wanting to clean the entire air intake system, would it be best to clean them too since you are already there? Or just clean around the IACV? I misplaced my note on a trouble code but I want to say it had to be with an air restriction - noting the IACV.
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 08:10 AM
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What PShep said...but if you need a visual image of it, here's the area where it'll be located
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 08:46 PM
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Great photo! Thank you. I should take more photos as they are helpful to others. I always carry my camera.
Did find my code P0401 which turns out to EGR air restriction.
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 09:52 PM
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most likely suspect is dirty egr ports

cleaning of the IACV should be mandatory- when you remove the TB from manifold its gotten shaken and stirred

crud gets moved around and iacv gets some in it- idle prob results
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 03:34 PM
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Guys i got my code reading done P1457 if i remember correctly it had to do with evaporative emmision control something like that. What is it exactly i went to my garage he told me the switch that controls the pressure of the gaz that switch gets rusted because of the salt in winter that it breaks. I know im not using the correct terms but i think it should help u guys out on knowing what it exactly is.
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 03:51 PM
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your egr valves' operating shaft rusted? and needs new egr valve?
is that the diagnosis?
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 05:39 PM
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Already relpaced the egr valve about 10 months ago. My garage told me its a "solonoid" something like that inside the gaz tank that controls the pressure and that gets rusted and doesnt work properly which makes that code appear. I remember seing the code reading and it was saying Evaporative emmision system leak.
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Old Sep 14, 2010 | 06:34 PM
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any guess or facts from one of the real acura Master techs please?!!

Avo-ask the shop for the part name again if its not written on the receipt
as suggested service
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Old Sep 15, 2010 | 02:13 PM
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Im gonna pass by the dealer today and ask for the exact name.
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Old Sep 16, 2010 | 03:31 PM
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I went to the dealer yesterday and actually bought the piece. Its called a Solenoi but im gonna change the part today and see whats gonna happen.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 04:35 PM
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Changed the part one day past light has not turned on yet. Took pictures of the part itself incase for future if people have the same code they know where to refer.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 06:38 PM
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did you reset the ECU?
pull the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash for a minute then reinsert
that forces a full systm scan and relearn- usually removes codes and lights
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 07:51 PM
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Dude :

You've got to know what the actual code is. Here's what's in the manual.


P1457 EVAP Control System Leak Detected (Control Canister System)

I suspect you don't have a code reader and are relying on the dealership to provide the code, right ? I can relate as I only recently bought a code reader and it has made diagnosing problems much easier.

You need to know the actual code in order the solve your problem.

If you're getting a 1457 then it's probably a canister and shut valve. Search the forums using the keywords and go through the details. You'll find it very helpful.
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Old Sep 17, 2010 | 08:41 PM
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to all:
have you been topping off the fuel tank above the first click?
dont!!
the auto shutoff system on the pump allows room for fuel expansion in heat,
when the tank is filled over its design limit- the extra fuel can get into the charcoal evap cannister-it handles vapor.. not liquid= ruining it
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 02:31 AM
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The dealer tech told me the same 01tl4tl he said its because u max out fuel in ur tank and the extra goes in this cannister and its not good for it if thats the case because ive been doing it for over 3 years what do i need to change.
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 03:12 AM
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the charcoal evap cannister
one of our emission gurus will have the actual part name, and affected parts to replace

I encourage everyone to read the car owner manual for critical info like dont overfill tank,,(you can read one online at acura.com)
and things like the gas cap on tight - 3 clicks heard from its built in ~torque wrench~ so its on the correct amount
Loose gas cap messes up the system bad--drive off with it removed and you wont get far!! takes days to clear the CEL from it too
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Old Sep 20, 2010 | 03:36 PM
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Today is the 4th day since i changed the part and the light is still have so we have good hope that its the part i changed. Ill wait for a week then ill post pics of the part and where its located.
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 03:02 PM
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Hi Avo :

Glad you seem to have your problem fixed.

I'm assuming you know now that a PO1457 has nothing to do with the ERG ports, although it's always a good idea to keep them clean.

What part(s) did you replace and what code (PO1457 ?) did you get ? This is very important for others in the future who need to map the CEL code to the (possible) part to replace. You should be able to get the part number off the parts invoice.


Let us know !

smartypants

Last edited by smartypants; Sep 21, 2010 at 03:07 PM.
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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 10:35 PM
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Big dissapointment 70$ worth of part down the drain. Light came back on. Yes the code is P01457 but what part to change i dont know.
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 01:10 AM
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not a waste--you have a combo problem,,sometimes you have to change a part to get to the next clue
any new codes?

you did a master reboot after part install?
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 02:39 AM
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The mecanic turned off the code from the code reader machine. i didnt do that ecu thing u mensioned
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 11:54 AM
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well no wonder!!!
when you change a part based on a code- you must reset the system so it scans itself and finds the new hardware
then it can evaluate if all is well

remove the CLOCK fuse on passenger end of dash fuse block for a minute
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 03:59 AM
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ill do it first thing in the morning
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