cominfromafar

Hello All! Happy belated NEw Year!

I got a used '99 3.2 tl about 4 months ago and am having a bit of a problem. About 3.5 months ago my oil indicator light started to come on. I checked the oil level and it was a bit low (just a bit above the low mark). It was also time to change the oil (105,000 miles), so i filled it to just below the fill mark with 10-w30 and used it as such to get to the weekend. The oil light did not come on during this time. When i changed the oil, I used Castol Syntec 5w-30 (according to the manual it was better for a wider temp range, but i was still unsure with the mileage the car was currently at), and a Fram oil filter (can't remember the part number but it was the one for this model of course and yes it had a flat o-ring). I went through the following procedure:

1) Put the car on a flat, level surface.

2) Ran the engine for about 10 minutes (maybe more, just to be sure).

3) Raised the car, and placed my jack stands within two minutes or so.

4) Removed the oil filler cap under the hood, and then proceeded to removing the drain plug (and drained the old oil).

5) Removed the old oil filter and let it drain.

*I let the old oil drip out from both the drain plug and the filter spot for a good time to get as much out as i could.*

6) Installed the new oil filter (but i did not apply a bit of fresh oil to the o-ring of the new filter, my mistake). I believe i torqued it just right, not too loose and not too much as to screw up the threads.

7) Put the oil drain bolt back on w/ the old crush washer (yes, i know i didn't replace it, bad bad bad....well ideally anyways). Torqued it to 33ft-lbs (as stated in the manual).

8) Took the car off the jack stands.

9) Filled up the engine with 4.5 quarts.

10) Ran the engine for 5 minutes and then shut it off.

11) Checked the oil level after say 7 minutes and repeated the refill procedure as necessary.

12) Checked for leaks, and found none.


Here's the really really dumb mistake i made (and i don't know why), when i did refill i did so only to about a quarter inch above the low mark. So after the change, my sis was using the car most around this time, and she did so under normal conditions. She told me that the oil indicator light came on once in a while, first starting to blink slowly then faster. I was really busy...and stupid not to check it so i told her to pull over and shut the engine off and leave it for a few minutes every time this occurred. I don't know to what extent she ever looked at the dash or noticed the light. Finally, about a week later (at most), i got to checking the level again. It was where i last filled it, but i topped it to exactly the fill mark with the same type/grade/brand of oil. It was driven like that by my sis for another 2,500 miles.

Now the my problem is that i drove it yesterday and noticed that the indicator light came on. Checked the oil level, it's fine. I used my ODB II scanner (can't remember what standard it is, J16...something but it's for domestic and import, '96 and later) to check DTC codes and got no codes returned. What the hell is up? Did i screw up my recently acquired baby big time? It was well taken care of...until my destructive hands got on it it seems. That light scares the crap out of me. I just keep thinking about the engine shredding itself apart every time i see it! I'm ready to dive in and repair it. I've got the tools (yes i bought a crapload of tools to work on my new [old] toy). I just need a bit of guidance on what to do as i never worked on this car before (or any really for that matter). I'm trying to get my hands on the repair manual as well cause i don't know the exact way this engine's oil system is designed, and to help in case of anything. Should've bought it before huh?

01tl4tl

I would suspect the old oil had not been changed in a while?
the oil pressure sender is filled with crud?- hopefully!!, and a new one will fix the prob

Read the 2nd gen thread in the DIY Seafoam and do the 1 can in the engine oil- run it or drive gently 15 minutes- 30 minutes max- and then change oil and filter. Sometimes that will also clean the sending unit, it did on my neighbors old car with light prob and dirty oil and the light was good after that. Changed oil again in 1000 miles with seafoam again to get it really clean inside- so far so good. Its worth a try

Lawaia

Don't overlook the obvious, a bad oil pump will exhibit the same symptoms. If you don't have a mechanical oil pressure gauge available, I suggest you take it to a mechanic to be properly diagnosed. Do it before extensive damage occurs.
You do know why they call it a "idiot light" right?! j/k. Good luck.

Luke7

if you put in 4.5 qt.s the level should have been fine and not triggered the sensor light. I would do as Lawaia said above. I'd check the sensor and wiring to it first then go from there. Oil pump could be going bad but sounds more like a wiring or sensor problem. Let us know ok!

cominfromafar

Well i am trying to properly diagnose the problem now. I bought the oil pressure sender as well as a new oil pressure switch and a mechanical oil pressure tester (total cost = $47). I've got the car lifted and began trying to get to the pressure sender from the right side wheel. It's going okay so far, even though i spent almost the whole day looking for a fender bolt that slipped and fell into the lower bumper. And you can be d^&n sure i was pissed when i realized that removing the fender would give me no better access than before.

Well anyway, i have to drop the wheel assembly which means removing quite a few bolts. Bolts which i do not have the torque measurements for since the chilton manual only specifies them for the integra, legend, and vigor (yet it says "Integra, Vigor, Legend, 3.0CL, TL" right below.

1. Can i assume the values for the vigor are the same for '99 tl's?

2. Can someone please give me the torque measurements just in case for:

2a) the lower (sway, i guess) bar (under the car body, that goes across from the left to right wheel, and over the exhaust pipe).

2b) the strut bolts (both at the top in the engine compartment and by the rotor).

I'd like to be as precise as possible, wherever possible .

Any tips on how to get to the sensor easily will be greatly appreciated. Removing or dropping the engine aren't options for me right now.

Finally, here's what i plan to do once i remove the sensor:

1) Connect the pressure tester and...test the pressure (manual says it should be 71psi @ 3,000rpm).

2) (If there's no prob with the pressure) Connect the old pressure sender back to the pump and use some seafoam & do a flush (as instructed in the DIY forum) to do a bit of cleaning.

3) Replace the old pressure sender, filler up with oil...and pray i don't have to do much more in this cold a** weather again.

cominfromafar

it looks like i do have the torque specs for the strut assembly so i'm ok there.

cominfromafar

It's me again! I was about to put in the new Oil Pressure Sender which is manufactured by "Nippon Thermostat". I was just wondering, should i get a Denso (the manufacturer of the old one i pulled out) for replacement instead, or is the Nippon just as good ("if not, better" like the wonderful sales people told me)? I don't know the craftsmanship and reliability of Nippon Thermo. Thanks!

Gfaze

If I'm not mistaken, I believe "Denso" is just an abbreviation or nickname for "Nippondenso". You shouldn't have any problem with your replacement.

kushsmoker

ahh I swear everythread I read you're there with another bottle of seafoam!! haha the miracle drug for cars! are you sure you're not an undercover marketer for seafoam??