So, while doing my brakes i discovered that my front sub frame was rusted to the point in which it could snap at any point. Found a subframe at the local junkyard, $170 bucks is a lot cheaper than the $3200 the dealer quoted. Changed the subframe but in the process realized that the power steering pressure hose was rusted and it broke when we moved it. Now i have to buy a new power steering line. Replaced the rear rotors and brakes to get rid of a brake rubbing noise and it didnt work. Brakes are still rubbing really bad whenever i drive, the noise is terrible. Should i replace calipers next to see if thats it? could it be the parking brake? the brake light comes on every now and then but i just open the fluid cap and and tip it over to move the slider inside and the light goes away. Now since the subframe is replaced there is a rattle in the front end when i hit bumps. Tired of this car...

 

car is an 03 tl, 146k miles. anyone have a link to some power steering lines that arent junk and arent $200? also any ideas about the brakes and the rattle in the front end would be nice. also now my check engine light is on after doing all of this and it wasnt on before.

 

replace subframe but did you check engine mounts?

adjust your parking brake, it may be that that's rubbing.

check CEl with a OBD scan tool.


I know cars can be tough but fixing them is the fun in owning it ;D don't give up hope, you got a lot of help on the internet to make it a dependable car once again, just running into some bumps

 

the engine mounts appeared to be fine, how would i go about checking them? I think its the actual brakes rubbing though because i drove down the street, barely used the brakes, but the rotor was scorching hot to the touch where the pads squeeze.

 

When you pushed both rear caliper pistons back in with a c clamp did either one give resistance? Much resistance is a major sign that you need a new caliper. Good idea to replace in pairs.

For the engine mounts have someone put car in forward and reverse while you watch under the hood. Have them rev the car with foot on brake. If engine has too much play and rocks back and forth at all then one or more mounts are bad.

Also check all the bolts in subframe, you might have left a few bolts loose?

 

You say you replaced the rotors. New brake pads sometimes come with shims, did you put the shims on the pads when you installed them? If you have new rotors you shouldn't need the shims.

Are the pad sliders installed correctly? If not, I've heard that the pads can bind on the rotors.

Also, I've heard that Honda caliper pistons need to be compressed with clamps before reinstalling them on the car. Did you do that?

When you removed the calipers did you leave them dangling by the brake lines or did you suspend them?

When's the last time you changed your brake fluid? If recently, did you bleed the lines in the correct order?

I hope you left that dealer with both middle fingers flying proudly in the air - did they realize they were quoting you one minor part of the car at a price likely worth more than half the value of the car..? Sheesh freaking dealers.

 

they give high estimates on jobs they do not want to do!
Way more money to be made in new car services than replacing a rusted old pos
Those jobs are for body shops!

which rotor is hot? that caliper is hanging ON
rust in the fluid occurs after several years of no change of fluid- that rots out seals and corrodes cylinder walls of calipers,,often the reason for replacement of calipers

Correct bleed order is LF RF RR LR, that's driver front then clockwise around the car from driver view
Must be done every 3 years MAX, prefer every 1 year= full flush of DOT4

Start there, if no fluid comes out of one, you found the stuck problem,
replace in pairs of front or rear
One fails the other one is not far behind!

OE parts not required- rebuilt from any parts place work great, and fronts can be upgraded to those from a 95 legend LS-C

 

note: all cars calipers must have the pistons compressed/retracted into the bore or the new pads wont have room to fit!

sliders are the small metal part where pads ends sit on the caliper bracket
Remove, clean and lightly grease with caliper lube
Slide brake pad in and it clicks into place, install caliper onto pads and bracket

ck all torque settings and make sure the slider PINS= the retainer bolts for caliper (with rubber cover) are removed and greased so they allow motion of caliper during braking
It starts with motion there,,

 

i compressed the piston in the caliper when i put the pads in, the noise was there before i changed the rotors/pads and its the same noise still, maybe a bit worse which im guessing is because these pads are newer and therefore thicker. Ive only owned the car for a little over a year but who knows when the brake fluid was flushed, also i noticed that the brake light comes on every once in a while, and usually when the pedal is pushed all the way down. then shuts off when i release it

 

That's where I'd start then - sounds like a brake fluid change is in order.

 

Brake fluid definitely needs to be changed regularly.

But old fluid alone won't cause his problem. Sounds like a stuck or sticky caliper. As noted above, you need to regrease your caliper slide pins using an approved brake caliper lube like Sil-Glyde. Don't use anti-seize lube because that is not what it is for. I've seen more than one person make this mistake.

 

So the CEL was for the HO2S sensor. Removed it and put it back. Problem solved. The brake noise we discovered is not the brakes. Its the rotor rubbing the brake dust shield. I have searched for replacements and nobody has them. Anyone know where I can get new ones? Also there is still a bad rattle in the front end. Father in law thinks it may be struts

 

You cant just bend the brake dust shield? Its quite easy even with your hands.

 

They're just really rough and rusted around the center. We grinded them back a bit and the noise was better until we tightened the wheels back on which pushed the rotor all the way in and still rubs