HID Igniter Issue

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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 12:04 AM
  #1  
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HID Igniter Issue

Last year my driver side HID went out and the problem turned out to be the igniter (originally thought it was the ballast or the bulb). I replaced the igniter with one from a junk yard, but just yesterday it was going off/on. Went to check it out and it looks like it's the igniter again.

Is this a common problem for the TL? Should I bother replacing it again (this time buying OEM new?) or should I just replace both my units with one of those 3rd party HID kits?

Thanks in advance!
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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 10:50 AM
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do you have any moisture inside the housing lens issues?
that water drips out and onto the ballast- messing up its circuits.
the ignitor gets damaged in the process

with the cost of oe and its failure prob will remain, many of us go aftermarket
and replace everything--do it once and its done
www.hidextra.com is one of our sponsors,see vendor list for others
the `kit` for $59 is the one for us
dont need any extras to make it work
Optional is 1 relay system that provides direct power to the lights, bypassing acuras fuse and relay by installing dedicated line for the lights

fairly simple diy
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Old Mar 10, 2012 | 11:06 AM
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Thanks for the quick response. I'll double check the housing for mouisture today.

I was speaking to a local HID guy and he was saying that there's a difference between an aftermarket upgrade HID kit for cars that didn't originally come with HID, and kits for cars that came with OEM HID. The latter being more costly, according to him, but it looks like the kit you mentioned will be a replacement? Will the durability be similar to OEM in lifespan?
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 10:58 AM
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the kit I mentioned is perfect for our factory equipped HID low beams
All you do it take the OE power leads and splice in the new ballast leads to them = simple

no you dont need the other options they sell

lifespan? bulbs expected 2500-3500 hours use,,thats as good as OE, and the ballast have no reason to fail soon, waterproof!!, modern circuitry--
besides--at that price,,if I replace them in 2-3 years that would be ok - cost versus life- to me
I know the oe stuff is going to fail for one reason or another~
you can buy 10 if these kits for less than 1 part of the oe system!!
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Old Mar 11, 2012 | 02:35 PM
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Awesome, thanks for the input. Also checked, housing seems fine, no mouisture. I'll look into that kit you mentioned.
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 09:20 AM
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HID Problems And Dittos

My 04TL is now having a 3rd issue with the HID. The first two times (about two years ago), took to dealer and within 6 months similar issue - they comped the labor on the second go round.

This time it looks like it is the ignitor (I did the troubleshooting). I guess what I'm trying to say is that if my experience is like others there isn't anything special about the OEM parts!
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 11:21 AM
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thanks..looks like gen3 isnt faring any better than us with the headlights
hows your trans doing? DO get on the new honda dw1 fluid asap!!

I would suggest an aftermarket hid kit like many of us use, and be done with the problem

of note to auto-x racers; the stock hid parts are pretty heavy to be sitting way out there in front of the suspension = unsprung weight
You could drop several secret pounds just installing aftermarket ballast and ignitor/capacitors!!
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 10:34 PM
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Aftermarket HID

I have been very conflicted about whether I want to just go aftermarket or replace the troubled ignitor with one off of ebay. On the aftermarkets, I am a little confused - do most of the aftermarket kits get rid of the ignitor and simply integrate it into the ballast? How are the aftermarket ballasts secured to the car if they don't take the bracket screws? Read somewhere about zipties, but that seemed a little to flimsy to me.
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 11:28 AM
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the kit from hidextra has a ballast (smaller than a deck of cards)
which I used double stick tape and some zipties (much stronger than you would believe) to the side of frame rail,,it works fine
there is a bracket you can use with some effort~, but Im lazy
some even mount the ballast in the old location

the ignitor/capacitor is NOT built/included INSIDE the ballast!!!

its made as an `in-line` component of the heavy duty wire from ballast to bulb,
that must be used- it comes in the kit
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 10:25 AM
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Sadly I am having issues with my right low beam on the TL Type S I just got, it tends not to turn on at all. Once and a while it tends to turn on but not for more than one trip. I read on this thread that moisture can mess up the ignitor, I have moisture in both headlights. I checked out the kits at www.hidextra.com and I am interested in the 55W system. Do I need a cancellor and a relay harness?

Thanks
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 10:47 AM
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no on the cancel thing
Optional on the relay
but if going from 35 to 55watts I would spend the 16 bucks
to have dedicated power for the system
Make sure your lights are adjusted correctly and/or driver side down a little --brightness will blind oncoming traffic and attract the attention of The Law

reseal your lights the cheapie way with silicone on the outside and stay away from pressure car washes
see our diy section
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Old Apr 15, 2012 | 07:42 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
no on the cancel thing
Optional on the relay
but if going from 35 to 55watts I would spend the 16 bucks
to have dedicated power for the system
Make sure your lights are adjusted correctly and/or driver side down a little --brightness will blind oncoming traffic and attract the attention of The Law

reseal your lights the cheapie way with silicone on the outside and stay away from pressure car washes
see our diy section
Would you recommend I stay with the 35W then? I am a bit lost with the dedicated power. I was going to take them out and reseal them, what a shame. Thanks for your advise and help.

P.S.- Where is the DIY section lol
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Old Apr 16, 2012 | 10:15 AM
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OFFICIAL DIY list, 3rd item down the main gen2 TL thread list

35 is fine for most drivers
If you live in the backwoods and its pitch black- no lights- hairpin turns type road,,then 55 is your new best friend

the heat involved in resealing lens right- involves risk of damage to the unit--melting of mounting tabs,,,be careful!!

relay and dedicated power: instead of going thru the acura stock fuse and relay box,,which some have solder problems in the connections,
you install a seperate relay thats wired direct to the battery--new wires from batt to the ballast = dedicated power

Last edited by 01tl4tl; Apr 16, 2012 at 10:19 AM.
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Old Aug 22, 2014 | 11:46 PM
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just wanted to make sure...The HIDextra kit DOES NOT come with ignitor? if not, do I re-use the old one? If i suspect a bad ignitor(and i do), where can I get one? TIA!
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 10:48 AM
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the hidextra kit DOES come with ignitor built in, contains 2 ballast- 2 connector wires and 2 bulbs- I suggest 5000k for best to see objects on the road (stock was 4300)
If the 15 year old OE system is acting up at all, better to dump it all and put some modern technology to work -

the only parts you need are shrink wrap and 14/16 gauge connectors or inline splices
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 10:53 AM
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call them on the 800 and state you are from acurazine- they will hook you up with best coupon code avail, doesn't hurt for you to look them up too!

this thread is a few years old, now there are diy's for the hidextra install
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Old Aug 23, 2014 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
call them on the 800 and state you are from acurazine- they will hook you up with best coupon code avail, doesn't hurt for you to look them up too!

this thread is a few years old, now there are diy's for the hidextra install
Thanks man, i appreciate it!
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