Heater A/C failure on a 2001 3.2TL
#41
pshaine... you SO ROCK! Amazingly helpful. What is that saying.. a pictures worth a 1000 words ;-) So my wiring harness was fine... that is what happens most of the time according to my Acura Dealer... but thanks to your post, I went after the transistor... I new I was getting power to the fan (tested with voltmeter). I new my fan was fine.. funny part.. use jumper cables and then hooked those to smaller wires that would fit inside the small fan terminal (not the smartest or safest thing I've ever done but I was careful). So I went to the dealer with the metal "FIN" transister... ouch $50 out the door and you cannot return it...PERIOD... felt like I was in Vegas buying it... nervous but a little confident... put it in and BINGO.. FAN ON! great post here.. the internet is such the equalizer! We don't have to pay these dealers outrages feeds to fix our cars!!!!
Regards,
Glenn
Regards,
Glenn
#42
Blower not working
The pictures are great and helped me locate the burnt wire. I think the reason mine blew was because of a power converter i was using in the cig lighter to power my laptop. The converter slipped between my seats and the unit was overheating. Beware of powering any external devices.
#43
A/C heater blower problems
[can any one tell me where the fuse is located that goes to the blower motor or where is the transistor located I have experienced A/C blower failures.I took the blower out and connected it to my battery and it works but my manual does not show where the fuse or tansistor is located
#44
You can find it by looking under the glove compartment right against the floor carpet where your toes normally go. It is a white piece of plastic held in by 2 hex screws and there is a wiring harness connected to it.
Check out this great DIY:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/c-heater-blower-repair-diy-775458/
Check out this great DIY:
https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-problems-fixes-117/c-heater-blower-repair-diy-775458/
#46
Lamborghini Aventador FTW
iTrader: (4)
People with this problem, do you get no air coming out of the vent at all? Or do you get some air coming out of some/all vents? I have a problem where when my heat is on, no air comes out of the center vents, but it does come out of the side and rear vents. And the A/C works fine (air comes out of all vents).
#47
I have the same problem with my TL, took down the glove box and saw all that mess. Now I am looking for a blower motor to replace the burned up one. I will change the filters as well this weekend. Thanks ACURAZINE....
#48
Intermediate
Great write up..!!
Bought the blower assembly, transistor and wiring harness for $155.00 at Pohanka Acura.
Took me about 1 hr, fairly easy work. Wire connector was smoked to the blower.
Pohanka wanted $380.00 to do the work with parts. Just do it yourself..!!!
Bought the blower assembly, transistor and wiring harness for $155.00 at Pohanka Acura.
Took me about 1 hr, fairly easy work. Wire connector was smoked to the blower.
Pohanka wanted $380.00 to do the work with parts. Just do it yourself..!!!
#49
Advanced
If you're capable of soldering, or learning to, the repairs can be done for a couple of dollars. The blower motor it self doesn't usually go bad, the plastic just gets a bit cooked around the connector. I chopped the plastic down around the two terminals on the blower and soldered the new wires directly to it. I also put some high current connectors inline to act as a quick disconnect. As for the blower resistor, the part that goes bad on them is the transistor, which can be replaced fairly easily for around $3.
#51
99 intermittent blower
Thanks to the forums! I had no burnt wires, but will replace transistor. Reseating the plugs caused my blower to start back up, so try that first!
1. Do autotest by pushing auto and off at same time. There is thread about indications. (mine didn't match thread images).
2. Look at wiring harnesses and reseat all plugs. (fixed mine for now)
3. Don't screw around with splicing. The harness is $17 from dealer.
4. There are three potential problems: Burnt wiring, bad transitor(fuse?) ,and old motor. The old motor is root cause but is most expensive. I think total for all 3 is $110. If motor is old and going, it may burn up another transistor. Then you are out an extra $50. your call.
5. I chose easiest path. No real work to validate wires not burned and replace transistor .$50 and ten minutes.
R
1. Do autotest by pushing auto and off at same time. There is thread about indications. (mine didn't match thread images).
2. Look at wiring harnesses and reseat all plugs. (fixed mine for now)
3. Don't screw around with splicing. The harness is $17 from dealer.
4. There are three potential problems: Burnt wiring, bad transitor(fuse?) ,and old motor. The old motor is root cause but is most expensive. I think total for all 3 is $110. If motor is old and going, it may burn up another transistor. Then you are out an extra $50. your call.
5. I chose easiest path. No real work to validate wires not burned and replace transistor .$50 and ten minutes.
R
#52
If you're capable of soldering, or learning to, the repairs can be done for a couple of dollars. The blower motor it self doesn't usually go bad, the plastic just gets a bit cooked around the connector. I chopped the plastic down around the two terminals on the blower and soldered the new wires directly to it. I also put some high current connectors inline to act as a quick disconnect. As for the blower resistor, the part that goes bad on them is the transistor, which can be replaced fairly easily for around $3.
#53
A/C blower
I am trying to fix the A/C blower on a 2001 Acura MDX. I already replaced the blower resister but it still does not work. I check the fusers and they are ok &I checked the relay. I got power in the blue cable and I jumped the blue cable to the other blue cable and that makes the blower work. I would like to know if there is another fuse or anything else that makes it work. Please help, thank you
#54
Not sure if this works on the MDX but try turning the key 'on' (engine off) and press the auto and off buttons at the same time. '88' should flash on the temperature display, let us know which segments of the '88' remain on between flashes.
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