The Heat Soak, Fuel Boiling, No Start after 15min of sitting, issue
#41
^^I wouldn't rule out fuel injection/induction cleaning, as I've seen it help a lot of strange running problems. You don't have to use the dealer either. Price some independents. The bg service is good, as well as wynn's, 3m, and others, but I think the motorvac system is the industry leader for a number of reasons. The first thing would be to try victus' suggestion to see if it helps. Then possibly have someone check the fuel pump pressure, volume, and amperage draw as well as checking for a leaky injector. Done properly, these checks are typically part of a motorvac service. However, I personally think fuel injection service is oversold most of the time.
#42
If you use the motorvac system as directed, you take pressure readings, and presumably would notice the pressure drop of a leaky injector. If you're having it done at a quickee lube, don't count on anything. Even at the dealerships, machine flush services are often done by the most inexperienced techs. Yeah, right.... "techs".
#43
I've got my daughter's car in today for a lof, and tire swap. I had it running outside to warm up the oil with a half can of seafoam in the oil. I got delayed, and it turned into 45 minutes. Now I know what she's talking about! The car was barely running, knocking loudly, cel flashing, etc. I nursed it into the shop thinking it was going to blow up, while cursing seafoam. After changing the oil, the car cooled down, and no problem. (other than the transmission taking a shit while idling in the parking lot)
What I'm getting at is this happened with the car running and the hood up. It's even worse with an engine off hot soak. I did have a scan tool on while this was happening, and the temp was around 195F. Hopefully I'll get to try the aftermarket fuel regulator that I got recently.
What I'm getting at is this happened with the car running and the hood up. It's even worse with an engine off hot soak. I did have a scan tool on while this was happening, and the temp was around 195F. Hopefully I'll get to try the aftermarket fuel regulator that I got recently.
#45
This is not a fuel injector problem. This is a problem that causes the fuel (with winter additives) to boil because of issues with the fuel regulator and ECU. You shouldn't be having this problem this time of year since there shouldn't be any winter gas additives still in use. Perhaps your problem is something else that needs proper diagnosis. If it's very bad gas mileage, I would consider checking the 2 oxygen sensors to ensure they are working within their spec range.
#46
The Heat Soak, Fuel Boiling, No Start after 15min of sitting, issue
Am having this issue with my 99 Acura TL. My Acura service advisor sent an email stating: "The issue occurs when the fuel boils over and turns into vapor within the fuel lines and rail. It is an issue related to winter grade gasoline which reacts different with the TL's. Acura has a remedy for the 2000-2001 models which will include a replacement computer that will work in conjunction with a higher rated fuel pressure(higher fuel pressure will raise boiling point of fuel) regulator."
We replaced the computer in our 99 TL and switched to Chevron gas, but the issue was not resolved.
Does anyone have a solution to resolving this issue? My advisor also suggested using either Union 76 or Shell gas.
Thanks for any suggestions!!
We replaced the computer in our 99 TL and switched to Chevron gas, but the issue was not resolved.
Does anyone have a solution to resolving this issue? My advisor also suggested using either Union 76 or Shell gas.
Thanks for any suggestions!!
#49
2000 Acura TL
Try this.. don't use the vacuum on the FPR.. plug it up.. work for me.. took me months to figure this out that it was my problem all along, I thought it was hot soak at first but then i questioned.. why it never happen before and just now given misfire code and stall at hot start.
I try different gas station, different octane, valve adjustment, carbon and EGR cleaning, change the plugs and swap out some coils, check fuel pressure (within specs), none of these solve the problem.. UNTIL....
I try different gas station, different octane, valve adjustment, carbon and EGR cleaning, change the plugs and swap out some coils, check fuel pressure (within specs), none of these solve the problem.. UNTIL....
Last edited by closetprisoner; 02-28-2014 at 09:06 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by closetprisoner:
mikejoyce34 (04-17-2015),
Rmkpower1 (12-20-2014)
#50
I was having the exact described issues in this thread 2000 TL we live in littleton Colorado they use crap winter blend fuel. I tried your trick per the picture plugging the vacuum line it has worked perfect ever since thanks so much!! Simple one minute fix....
The following users liked this post:
mikejoyce34 (04-17-2015)
#52
Wecome Rmkpower1 !!!
Keep us posted on plugging the FPR and any other progress with the "heat soak" issue.
Keep us posted on plugging the FPR and any other progress with the "heat soak" issue.
#53
Try this.. don't use the vacuum on the FPR.. plug it up.. work for me.. took me months to figure this out that it was my problem all along, I thought it was hot soak at first but then i questioned.. why it never happen before and just now given misfire code and stall at hot start.
I try different gas station, different octane, valve adjustment, carbon and EGR cleaning, change the plugs and swap out some coils, check fuel pressure (within specs), none of these solve the problem.. UNTIL....
I try different gas station, different octane, valve adjustment, carbon and EGR cleaning, change the plugs and swap out some coils, check fuel pressure (within specs), none of these solve the problem.. UNTIL....
#54
wel f@#k me! waited 10 min and she fired right up. its fairly cool out at the moment but it was running for at least 45 min prior to me getting home and i ran it hard right before i parked it to get some more heat (because its cool out) tomorrow will be warm, if theres no update from me then that means it still works
#55
just did some research, if this is the problem there's likely a small rupture in the regulator diaphragm and some fuel may start coming out of the vacuum port on the fuel reg. fire hazard! looks like if this is working, time for a new fpr. 200$ at acura (toronto)
#56
^^On our cars, it's not the diaphragm failing that's the problem, it's that the increased pressure on the updated regulator increases the boiling point of the fuel. If you don't have fuel leaking out the vacuum port of the fpr, the diaphragm is intact. If you decide to replace it, get one from rock auto for about $80. Just get one for an 03 tl to make sure you get the higher pressure one.
#59
just called acura toronto my car has stock original ecu and falls into the tsb vin bracket. so if i replace with 01 fpr is this going to be an issue, or do i justreset the ecu? using the clock fuse method?
#61
^^That's what I did to avoid any confusion. If you look it up for a 2000 tl, you'll see 2 different part numbers. One is the older, lower pressure unit; the other is the replacement, higher pressure one. If you look it up for an 03 tl only one is shown. This is through acura. Some aftermarket companies only list one part for 00-03. The other thing I find odd is that my online service info lists the same pressure spec for 00-03 as well. It used to list a lower pressure for 00 than 03. I don't remember if the split was in 01, or 02, but it was definitely different.
#63
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem.../#post15404491
Gentlemen, please read the above thread by clicking on it.
Gentlemen, please read the above thread by clicking on it.
Will it work? Clear answer,.
#64
Drifting
#65
Then we have a wee little problem a: i got an 03 fpr in my hand b: ecu no longer available (from acura /according to service and parts dept) soooo? Anyone wanna buy an 03 fpr, new in box? Paid 214$ +tax about 5 hours ago. Maybe acura can reflash my ecu?
#66
Drifting
Did you not see the fix to your Heat Soak prob in the thread?
#67
Something about evap sys, and selinoids, idk if that's my problem or not. I do know that removing vacuum line solved my problem, so I assume it is fpr related. Also my cls has 350k on it and im just now finding out that my tranny is a ticking time bomb, i think I will sell this car now before it literally blows up on me.
#68
Drifting
Ok sorry I bothered you then.
I find it funny that people keep doing the same things and expect a different result. What's even funnier than that is the same people giving the same advice and expecting a different result.
I find it funny that people keep doing the same things and expect a different result. What's even funnier than that is the same people giving the same advice and expecting a different result.
Last edited by 01acls; 04-17-2015 at 06:42 PM.
#69
I don't think you bothered him, you probably just confused him more. If the fix is in the thread(s) you referenced, what is it? It's definitely not an o2 sensor; that was one of the first poster's attempts that didn't work. At least one poster cured the problem with a main/efi relay. Six new injectors fixed another one. Replacing the battery cured another. Four people got results by raising the fuel pressure; three (including the person you were responding to) by disconnecting the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, and myself by replacing it with it with one that matched the hot restart tsb's specs.
Why do you think the updated fpr can't be used without the ecm? I can all but guarantee you that the only reason is emission certification. As I explained in yet another thread related to this, the specs actually overlap between the old spec fpr and the new one. Disconnecting the vacuum line on the old spec. fpr puts you close to the spec on the updated one.
To me it's a no brainer. If disconnecting the vacuum line cures your problem, either leave it disconnected or replace the fpr with the updated one.
Why do you think the updated fpr can't be used without the ecm? I can all but guarantee you that the only reason is emission certification. As I explained in yet another thread related to this, the specs actually overlap between the old spec fpr and the new one. Disconnecting the vacuum line on the old spec. fpr puts you close to the spec on the updated one.
To me it's a no brainer. If disconnecting the vacuum line cures your problem, either leave it disconnected or replace the fpr with the updated one.
#70
I don't think you bothered him, you probably just confused him more. If the fix is in the thread(s) you referenced, what is it? It's definitely not an o2 sensor; that was one of the first poster's attempts that didn't work. At least one poster cured the problem with a main/efi relay. Six new injectors fixed another one. Replacing the battery cured another. Four people got results by raising the fuel pressure; three (including the person you were responding to) by disconnecting the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, and myself by replacing it with it with one that matched the hot restart tsb's specs.
Why do you think the updated fpr can't be used without the ecm? I can all but guarantee you that the only reason is emission certification. As I explained in yet another thread related to this, the specs actually overlap between the old spec fpr and the new one. Disconnecting the vacuum line on the old spec. fpr puts you close to the spec on the updated one.
To me it's a no brainer. If disconnecting the vacuum line cures your problem, either leave it disconnected or replace the fpr with the updated one.
Why do you think the updated fpr can't be used without the ecm? I can all but guarantee you that the only reason is emission certification. As I explained in yet another thread related to this, the specs actually overlap between the old spec fpr and the new one. Disconnecting the vacuum line on the old spec. fpr puts you close to the spec on the updated one.
To me it's a no brainer. If disconnecting the vacuum line cures your problem, either leave it disconnected or replace the fpr with the updated one.
#71
Drifting
Above are the parts that fix my heat soak symtoms. For the record my 2000 tl is listed on the TSB 01-001. I did not do the upgrade to the new PCM/FPR bc it would of cost about $1500.<br/>$22.79 part opional... cheap, so I replaced it.
Last edited by 01acls; 04-21-2015 at 06:43 PM.
#72
Drifting
Above are the parts that fix my heat soak symtoms. For the record my 2000 tl is listed on the TSB 01-001. I did not do the upgrade to the new PCM/FPR bc it would of cost about $1500.<br/>$22.79 part opional... cheap, so I replaced it.
Last edited by 01acls; 04-21-2015 at 06:42 PM.
#74
Drifting
I don't think you bothered him, you probably just confused him more. If the fix is in the thread(s) you referenced, what is it? It's definitely not an o2 sensor; that was one of the first poster's attempts that didn't work. At least one poster cured the problem with a main/efi relay. Six new injectors fixed another one. Replacing the battery cured another. Four people got results by raising the fuel pressure; three (including the person you were responding to) by disconnecting the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, and myself by replacing it with it with one that matched the hot restart tsb's specs.
Why do you think the updated fpr can't be used without the ecm? I can all but guarantee you that the only reason is emission certification. As I explained in yet another thread related to this, the specs actually overlap between the old spec fpr and the new one. Disconnecting the vacuum line on the old spec. fpr puts you close to the spec on the updated one.
To me it's a no brainer. If disconnecting the vacuum line cures your problem, either leave it disconnected or replace the fpr with the updated one.
Why do you think the updated fpr can't be used without the ecm? I can all but guarantee you that the only reason is emission certification. As I explained in yet another thread related to this, the specs actually overlap between the old spec fpr and the new one. Disconnecting the vacuum line on the old spec. fpr puts you close to the spec on the updated one.
To me it's a no brainer. If disconnecting the vacuum line cures your problem, either leave it disconnected or replace the fpr with the updated one.
The reason why I don't think the updated FPR/black dot FPR can't be used with out the updated PCM is because in the TSB 01-0001 it clearly states they are a matched pair. Who am I to question the Acura engineers. I try to give facts, I don't like guessing.
If you guys want to experiment, more power to you. And thanks for taking the risks. The only thing I have to say about that is, what are the long term effects? Nobody knows... time will tell. In general it's not a good idea to be experiment with fuel related components... IMO.
#75
I called my local acura dealer, service guy said he can't explain why fpr needs to be included with ecu, except perhaps ecu is seperate issue, as in fpr solves one aspect of problem while ecu solves another, said ecu has no way to know what fuel press is available at any time, that ecu adjusts injector pulse to lean/rich mixture and adjust spark aswell but has no control over and Therefore no knowledge of pressure. "fp" is vacuum controlled. Also since fp changes slightly due to many variables that in all likelihood the difference between the 2 is marginal. He went on to say (off record so to speak) that fpr should be fine if that's the only problem.
#78
Will any of these throw a code if they fail?