Extremely hard starting when cold. 2003 TL-S
02-26-2022, 05:58 PM
#1
Cruisin'
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Extremely hard starting when cold. 2003 TL-S
After reading hundreds of threads on this forum, I am stumped. Car started and ran perfectly for many years, then suddenly, one cold (35 degrees F) morning, I had to crank it repeatedly over a period of six minutes to get it started. When it did finally start, it idled VERY slowly (250 to 300 rpm) for 15 to 20 seconds before normalizing at LOW idle. The car ran great for the rest of that day, no check engine light at all. Each of the next mornings, same thing. This was NOT a gradual process.
Here is what I can add;
-I ran one can of Seafoam through fuel tank; no difference.
-Starter, battery, alternator all worked flawlessly in-spite of many cranking events.
-Fuel pump and fuel pump control relay sound and act normally, although I have no means of testing fuel pressure at the rails, fuel pump, etc.
-So, I replaced all six spark plugs w/NGK Platinums gapped .040, air filter, Beck/Arnley idle air control valve w/new gasket, SMP EGR valve w/new gasket, and THOROUGHLY cleaned all EGR ports/passages in the intake plenum and manifold w/two cans of CRC Parts Cleaner/Degreaser. The amount of crap in the EGR system was horrific!
-After putting it all back together, the problems are now MUCH worse
. Engine barely starts at all now! Check engine light, Yellow warning triangle and VSA lights all came on as soon as engine finally started, engine does not want to rev (bogs down and/or backfires through induction system), but will idle. At this point, the car is no longer safe to drive to an auto parts store...or anywhere else + I do NOT have an OBD II scanner = no way to see codes
Nor do I have a service manual for this car.
It would be next to impossible to dork up the firing order given the very short stretch between the wiring harness and each coil pack. I've taken great lengths to look for any loose spark plugs, coil packs, vacuum hoses or electrical wires/connectors I might have left disconnected. I see there are some EXCEPTIONALLY talented people on this forum, and I am asking for their kind assistance. I live in Puyallup, WA and can call you at a time convenient to you if doable. PM me for my phone number, but I will be out of town from 2 March through 8 March.
Here is what I can add;
-I ran one can of Seafoam through fuel tank; no difference.
-Starter, battery, alternator all worked flawlessly in-spite of many cranking events.
-Fuel pump and fuel pump control relay sound and act normally, although I have no means of testing fuel pressure at the rails, fuel pump, etc.
-So, I replaced all six spark plugs w/NGK Platinums gapped .040, air filter, Beck/Arnley idle air control valve w/new gasket, SMP EGR valve w/new gasket, and THOROUGHLY cleaned all EGR ports/passages in the intake plenum and manifold w/two cans of CRC Parts Cleaner/Degreaser. The amount of crap in the EGR system was horrific!
-After putting it all back together, the problems are now MUCH worse
. Engine barely starts at all now! Check engine light, Yellow warning triangle and VSA lights all came on as soon as engine finally started, engine does not want to rev (bogs down and/or backfires through induction system), but will idle. At this point, the car is no longer safe to drive to an auto parts store...or anywhere else + I do NOT have an OBD II scanner = no way to see codes Nor do I have a service manual for this car.It would be next to impossible to dork up the firing order given the very short stretch between the wiring harness and each coil pack. I've taken great lengths to look for any loose spark plugs, coil packs, vacuum hoses or electrical wires/connectors I might have left disconnected. I see there are some EXCEPTIONALLY talented people on this forum, and I am asking for their kind assistance. I live in Puyallup, WA and can call you at a time convenient to you if doable. PM me for my phone number, but I will be out of town from 2 March through 8 March.
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