engine stalls when rpm drops below 1000rpm
01-31-2010, 09:30 PM
#1
engine stalls when rpm drops below 1000rpm
Hi all
I just happened to run across this problem yesterday..
I was driving a day before .. when i cranked it up..the rpm was above 1K .. and it slowly began to drop.. pretty usual..
But the movement it dropped below 1K it just stalled and died..
i tried again but kept cranking would not start..
I rmeoved the key and tried again... this time started but dies again as the rpm began to drop..again cranking but not starting..
Removed key tried again.. started but dies again..
PLEASE if anybody has info let me know
Appreciate it
Jassi
I just happened to run across this problem yesterday..
I was driving a day before .. when i cranked it up..the rpm was above 1K .. and it slowly began to drop.. pretty usual..
But the movement it dropped below 1K it just stalled and died..
i tried again but kept cranking would not start..
I rmeoved the key and tried again... this time started but dies again as the rpm began to drop..again cranking but not starting..
Removed key tried again.. started but dies again..
PLEASE if anybody has info let me know
Appreciate it
Jassi
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bass222000 (09-24-2014)
01-31-2010, 11:09 PM
#3
I had problems while stalling after brakeing. Now each car is different so this is what I tried and I have not stalled out since.
1) I took a wire brush and cleaned out the battery terminals
2) I took Carb Cleaner and cleaned the throttle body/ Intake manifolds / lower runners.
That solved my problems, but here is what else you can try.
3) Test battery / Alternator
4) Seafoam Fuel tank (only if your car starts) this will clean ur fuel pump/injectors.
Also while the rpm drops, give it gas so maybe it stablizes.
1) I took a wire brush and cleaned out the battery terminals
2) I took Carb Cleaner and cleaned the throttle body/ Intake manifolds / lower runners.
That solved my problems, but here is what else you can try.
3) Test battery / Alternator
4) Seafoam Fuel tank (only if your car starts) this will clean ur fuel pump/injectors.
Also while the rpm drops, give it gas so maybe it stablizes.
02-01-2010, 09:32 PM
#4
i did a little more looking today..
i forgot to mention this is a 1999 Acura TL
And i found that i go high on the rpm above 4 ..
Also till the time it is in high idle it will keep running.. it is just when it falls to low idle that it shuts..Also if i remove the key and try it again it starts again but if i continue cranking after it stopped.. it just cranks but does not start..
Also i found that when it is running, the TCS light came ON
i forgot to mention this is a 1999 Acura TL
And i found that i go high on the rpm above 4 ..
Also till the time it is in high idle it will keep running.. it is just when it falls to low idle that it shuts..Also if i remove the key and try it again it starts again but if i continue cranking after it stopped.. it just cranks but does not start..
Also i found that when it is running, the TCS light came ON
02-03-2010, 06:35 PM
#7
i tried something today that seemed to work..
I unhooked the tubing going to the engine that seemed to be going from a valve or actuator and started the engine.. the engine was sucking air through this port and kept running and as soon as i put it back it shut down..
Someone mentioned a thing called idling valve is what may be stopping the air going to engine during low idle..
I unhooked the tubing going to the engine that seemed to be going from a valve or actuator and started the engine.. the engine was sucking air through this port and kept running and as soon as i put it back it shut down..
Someone mentioned a thing called idling valve is what may be stopping the air going to engine during low idle..
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02-04-2010, 09:54 AM
#8
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i tried something today that seemed to work..
I unhooked the tubing going to the engine that seemed to be going from a valve or actuator and started the engine.. the engine was sucking air through this port and kept running and as soon as i put it back it shut down..
Someone mentioned a thing called idling valve is what may be stopping the air going to engine during low idle..
I unhooked the tubing going to the engine that seemed to be going from a valve or actuator and started the engine.. the engine was sucking air through this port and kept running and as soon as i put it back it shut down..
Someone mentioned a thing called idling valve is what may be stopping the air going to engine during low idle..
It's located on the throttle body and can be removed and cleaned with carb cleaner.
It's part #2 (bottom right). I would suggest cleaning it to see if it fixes the issue.
02-04-2010, 10:52 AM
#9
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^^^ either that or the Alternator....
its not the battery else the car will not start....the easiest way to check it....
1> Clean the IACV....if the problem goes cool....
2> If it doesnt then start the car and disconnect ur battery....if the car dies then its ur alternator....if the car keeps on running then
3> check ur fuel line !!!
its not the battery else the car will not start....the easiest way to check it....
1> Clean the IACV....if the problem goes cool....
2> If it doesnt then start the car and disconnect ur battery....if the car dies then its ur alternator....if the car keeps on running then
3> check ur fuel line !!!
02-04-2010, 11:27 AM
#10
02-04-2010, 11:46 AM
#11
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^^^ so how much voltage do u need to run the car ???
02-04-2010, 02:38 PM
#13
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well i didnt know that LOL and so many of the members wont either !!!! 
hence i said just disconnect one of the terminals....but anyway its good to learn
hence i said just disconnect one of the terminals....but anyway its good to learn
02-05-2010, 10:51 AM
#14
02-05-2010, 11:02 AM
#15
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dude its obvious that someone is not blowing music with his 1000W amp and has his headlights on and got the AC running when the car doesnt start !!!
i agree measuring the voltage is a smarter thing to do....many members here dont have a voltmeter and or dont know the Volts and Ampere rating of what they should expect.....
thats why i said you can try to disconnect the battery for a minute and see if she stalls....
anyway OP did you ever figure out what was wrong with the car !!! ???
i agree measuring the voltage is a smarter thing to do....many members here dont have a voltmeter and or dont know the Volts and Ampere rating of what they should expect.....
thats why i said you can try to disconnect the battery for a minute and see if she stalls....
anyway OP did you ever figure out what was wrong with the car !!! ???
02-05-2010, 11:10 AM
#16
dude its obvious that someone is not blowing music with his 1000W amp and has his headlights on and got the AC running when the car doesnt start !!!
i agree measuring the voltage is a smarter thing to do....many members here dont have a voltmeter and or dont know the Volts and Ampere rating of what they should expect.....
thats why i said you can try to disconnect the battery for a minute and see if she stalls....
anyway OP did you ever figure out what was wrong with the car !!! ???
i agree measuring the voltage is a smarter thing to do....many members here dont have a voltmeter and or dont know the Volts and Ampere rating of what they should expect.....
thats why i said you can try to disconnect the battery for a minute and see if she stalls....
anyway OP did you ever figure out what was wrong with the car !!! ???
If you don't have the right tools to be working on the car maybe you should let an adult that does have the right toys to fix it work on it.
And it's going to be real fucking hard to start it with the battery cable disconnected too, And I guess you never thought about the ECU being damaged because your to stupid and are jacking with the battery cable sending voltage spikes to all the electronic controls and sensors on the engine that you can't fucking turn off dumb ass.
02-05-2010, 11:13 AM
#17
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^^^ woah !!! i wudnt use that kind of profanity if i were u !!! your new to the forum and you dont want this thread to be closed and mods throwing a ban stamp on ur ass !!!
i dont think u can put ur point thro....learn a little more on how to communicate....e-calling sitting miles away is not really the way you want to go !!!
consider the above as a warning and dont push it !!!
i dont think u can put ur point thro....learn a little more on how to communicate....e-calling sitting miles away is not really the way you want to go !!!
consider the above as a warning and dont push it !!!
02-05-2010, 11:57 AM
#18
if you don't have the right tools don't jack with it , if you don' thave a clue on how to fix it don't pull something out your rear and act like you do and never disconnect the battery cable while the car is running because then you'll hear a big swoosh as you watch it fry beacuse you did. what a tool or fool maybe.
02-05-2010, 12:01 PM
#19
Senior Moderator
rcb2000, only warning. There is no need for language like that or name calling.
That said 2 easy ways of testing. A volt meter or go to a auto parts store and have them hook up a code reader. Most of them use ones that have the capability of reading live data. It will show the voltage the car is seeing which should be in the 13.5 to 13.8 range
That said 2 easy ways of testing. A volt meter or go to a auto parts store and have them hook up a code reader. Most of them use ones that have the capability of reading live data. It will show the voltage the car is seeing which should be in the 13.5 to 13.8 range
02-05-2010, 12:05 PM
#20
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no one is a born mechanic unless ur mom popped u out, in ur dads friends truck !!!
and u taking big shit about ruining some electronics with a voltage and amp spike....i think ur car doesnt have a fuse box....or maybe u bypassed it using ur voltmeter and soldering iron...the right tools used by a fool !!!
popping the battery may not be the right way....and might cause other problems and we can talk about the pros and cons of each method rather than just acting oversmart and cussing !!!
and u taking big shit about ruining some electronics with a voltage and amp spike....i think ur car doesnt have a fuse box....or maybe u bypassed it using ur voltmeter and soldering iron...the right tools used by a fool !!!
popping the battery may not be the right way....and might cause other problems and we can talk about the pros and cons of each method rather than just acting oversmart and cussing !!!
02-05-2010, 12:23 PM
#21
no one is a born mechanic unless ur mom popped u out, in ur dads friends truck !!!
and u taking big shit about ruining some electronics with a voltage and amp spike....i think ur car doesnt have a fuse box....or maybe u bypassed it using ur voltmeter and soldering iron...the right tools used by a fool !!!
popping the battery may not be the right way....and might cause other problems and we can talk about the pros and cons of each method rather than just acting oversmart and cussing !!!
and u taking big shit about ruining some electronics with a voltage and amp spike....i think ur car doesnt have a fuse box....or maybe u bypassed it using ur voltmeter and soldering iron...the right tools used by a fool !!!
popping the battery may not be the right way....and might cause other problems and we can talk about the pros and cons of each method rather than just acting oversmart and cussing !!!
FYI the voltage has all ready hit and damaged the electroincs by the time the fuse blows, So you need to read more before you start offering dangerous solutions to a problem you have no clue how to fix. But then I'm not the type to replace parts and hope it fixes the problem like so many do, It's much cheaper knowing what needs to be done and diagnosing the problem and knowing exactly what needs to be done.
But hey if yanking on a cable is your thing then that's your thing.
02-05-2010, 12:36 PM
#22
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dude then why have fuses ???
then what are fuses doing ???
from wikipedia....i think you should read up before u give out advices about reading !!!
i never said yanking the cable was the right thing or my thing.....if ur car stalls and u dont have an option to go anywhere it might be ur last resort....
neither am i saying replace the battery and the alternator and it will fix it....no....not worth it !!!
just trying to diagnose the problem....
1> Air Valve
2> Voltmeter
3> disconnect and see if it dies....if it doesnt, turn the car off, reconnect battery terminal !!!
So dont just jump to conclusions....might not solve the problem....might make it worse !!!
then what are fuses doing ???
In electronics and electrical engineering a fuse (from the Latin "fusus" meaning to melt) is a type of sacrificial overcurrent protection device. Its essential component is a metal wire or strip that melts when too much current flows, which interrupts the circuit in which it is connected. Short circuit, overload or device failure is often the reason for excessive current.
A fuse interrupts excessive current (blows) so that further damage by overheating or fire is prevented. Wiring regulations often define a maximum fuse current rating for particular circuits. Overcurrent protection devices are essential in electrical systems to limit threats to human life and property damage.
A fuse interrupts excessive current (blows) so that further damage by overheating or fire is prevented. Wiring regulations often define a maximum fuse current rating for particular circuits. Overcurrent protection devices are essential in electrical systems to limit threats to human life and property damage.
i never said yanking the cable was the right thing or my thing.....if ur car stalls and u dont have an option to go anywhere it might be ur last resort....
neither am i saying replace the battery and the alternator and it will fix it....no....not worth it !!!
just trying to diagnose the problem....
1> Air Valve
2> Voltmeter
3> disconnect and see if it dies....if it doesnt, turn the car off, reconnect battery terminal !!!
So dont just jump to conclusions....might not solve the problem....might make it worse !!!
02-05-2010, 12:52 PM
#23
guess you missed the part about Further Damage then? maybe just a comprehension issue.
A fuse interrupts excessive current (blows) so that further damage
doesn't that imply damage has all ready occured? YES IT DOES
A fuse interrupts excessive current (blows) so that further damage
doesn't that imply damage has all ready occured? YES IT DOES
02-05-2010, 12:57 PM
#24
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what the hell is wrong with u man.....
if a circuit can take a max of 15A and 15V....so u put an inline fuse of 15A....so if there is a voltage spike of 20A, will it mess ur circuit up ?
The answer is no....coz u have a fuse in place.....it will BLOW the fuse up making the circuit not usable until u replace the fuse !!!
if the spike was to mess the circuit up why the hell would u throw a fuse !!!! car/homes/inverters/generators/ all of these have fuses to AVOID further damage !!! but yes the damage has occurred at the fuse and not blown ur washing machine !!!
if a circuit can take a max of 15A and 15V....so u put an inline fuse of 15A....so if there is a voltage spike of 20A, will it mess ur circuit up ?
The answer is no....coz u have a fuse in place.....it will BLOW the fuse up making the circuit not usable until u replace the fuse !!!
if the spike was to mess the circuit up why the hell would u throw a fuse !!!! car/homes/inverters/generators/ all of these have fuses to AVOID further damage !!! but yes the damage has occurred at the fuse and not blown ur washing machine !!!
02-05-2010, 07:43 PM
#25
All rite guys lets not fight about it..
and yes it is kind of true that i donot have much knowledge about the car..
and i had been speculating all the problems as i could not get a code reader ..
but i was able to read the codes today.. and it seems i was just hitting in the bush..
and i got the following codes:
P1361& P1366: Manufacturer cntrl ignition system or misfire
P0301 thru P0306: cylinder1 Thru 6 misfire
P0300: Random multiple cylinder misfire detected..
So in the light of more info i am doubting a ignition coil..
and yes it is kind of true that i donot have much knowledge about the car..
and i had been speculating all the problems as i could not get a code reader ..
but i was able to read the codes today.. and it seems i was just hitting in the bush..
and i got the following codes:
P1361& P1366: Manufacturer cntrl ignition system or misfire
P0301 thru P0306: cylinder1 Thru 6 misfire
P0300: Random multiple cylinder misfire detected..
So in the light of more info i am doubting a ignition coil..
02-05-2010, 10:13 PM
#26
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im having the same prob it read me the codes but the guy took them off and gave me a tune up so now another mechanic say i have to wait till mi engine light come bak on so i can read the codes again.. but in mean time i have to let mi car shake till it comes on.. is there anything i can do so that i can reach the problem
02-17-2010, 11:34 AM
#28
you should have checked resistance across the coil first it would have shown which coil was bad, usually all of them don't go bad and they last quit some time too so you might have been able to save a couple bucks if you would have checked them. But glad it's fixed.
02-18-2010, 08:46 PM
#29
about 2 months ago i had issue with one coil going bad and had to go ahead and inspect all of them to find the one that was bad.. the technician informed that nearly all were showing signs of wear and heading out of factory specs.. so it was coming soon or later.. and i did not want to go thru some similar funny problem.. 
So decided to get done with it..
So decided to get done with it..
04-07-2010, 06:58 PM
#30
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Hey i also changed all my ignition coils and sparks plug last week but just today my rpm went under 1 and started to shake again. what can i do next to resolve the problemPlease help... this is embarrasen
04-08-2010, 08:59 PM
#31
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04-10-2010, 09:23 AM
#34
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06-24-2010, 02:29 PM
#35
Instructor
guys I got this problem as soon I start my car the rpm falls below 1k and when I rev up black smeely smoke from exhaust comes out and then when I let go the engine just stops any thoughts what might be causing fuel pump probly or spark plugs gone bad ??
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