engine idle > 2000 RPM
The cars starts normally when its cool. After a good 20 minutes drive and engine temp hot, my engine idles very high. When I'm slowing down at a red light, my brakes get loose just before stopping. The car kicks a little in front and then stops. The brake paddle feels unusually rough when I'm holding it down at the red light. Engine is pushing too much and when I shift the gear into neutral, RMP needle jumps over 2000. And sometimes, I feel a little vibration on the steering every 3 second as if a eletrical current runs through the car. And when I accelerate back again it feels kind of sluggish and heavy. My car did this once before but it has been doing this more and more since my I/H/E install. Has anyone experienced this before ? Any help would be appreciated.
Last edited by M T L T L; Jun 29, 2010 at 09:41 AM.
I will have that checked that very soon. I suppose the TPS sensor is different than idle control valve ?
What I wanted to say is that it doesnt do it all the time. When I start the engine in the morning, there's no symptoms. If I drive the car hard enough for a while, push it to hi-revs, then it will start to do that gradually. We had a relatively cool day yesterday and I barely sensed any throttle/idle malfunction. But the day before, it was hot, humide and I had driven the car for half n hour and the needle was jumping at 2k when idling. But for what you asked, ya engine temp. gauge is 1-2 line below halfway. There's no overheating in that sense. Just this idle problem.
It's simple , you have a tourque converter problem !! It's not the IACV , it's not the TPS , that's all bullcrap. Mine went as high as 4 thousand rpms , the dealer knew what the problem was and as always they said nothing is wrong with it !! I changed the IACV and did a coolant flush . Andthe problem kept continuing !! I have video clips on my phone to prove it !! If you still have warranty go to the dealer and tell them to change the tranny if not go to a tranny shop and get it changed my brother , I don't want you to go through the same problem as I did. I almost hit a pedestrian cuz of this, and I live in ny !! Now ingot a new tranny and the problem went away , I knew when it was going to kick in and it didn't !! Hopefully I'll hear from you !! Take care !! :-)
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OP has an 03
get your car to the dealer asap and speak in person with the SERVICE MANAGER
not the punk service writer who says you are not covered or other bs
We know about `Goodwill` warranty for out of vin range cars
have you checked to see if you are part of the trans extended warranty? acura.com owner account or dealer can look it up- 800 customer care is closed on the weekend
did you ever get the recall done for external oil jet kit?
get your car to the dealer asap and speak in person with the SERVICE MANAGER
not the punk service writer who says you are not covered or other bs
We know about `Goodwill` warranty for out of vin range cars
have you checked to see if you are part of the trans extended warranty? acura.com owner account or dealer can look it up- 800 customer care is closed on the weekend
did you ever get the recall done for external oil jet kit?
MT note on your sig
nsx-legend are not the same calipers- the nsx is aluminum and has the line fitting in a different place- more difficult to bolt to
95 legend ls-c (coupe) are cast metal units, they do bolt right up--left caliper on pass side, R on driver side-- so the bleeder nipple is at the top
Use TL brackets rotors and pads
info for others- 95 has the piston sizes closest together- best for our use on the TL
nsx-legend are not the same calipers- the nsx is aluminum and has the line fitting in a different place- more difficult to bolt to
95 legend ls-c (coupe) are cast metal units, they do bolt right up--left caliper on pass side, R on driver side-- so the bleeder nipple is at the top
Use TL brackets rotors and pads
info for others- 95 has the piston sizes closest together- best for our use on the TL
Well the point is to get a new tranny !!! The young mechanics from the dealership I used to go to just want there 70 grand a year salary and not care about you car here in ny !! Is the tricks behind the business that makes people in general Not take their car to the dealer , cuz at the end of the day it's about the money. !!
I had the transmission replaced when it was under warranty 2 years ago. I dunno about the external oil jet. And what is the extended warranty about? I'll go check if my vin is covered. If this torq conv. it will burn a deep whole in my pocket. I just spent almost 3 grant restoring my old accord and installing a I/H/E on my TL. Fingers crossed.
Pretty soon you will get a check engine light on !! p0740 which will read torque converter seloniod circuit !! Was going to happen is that it will burn the gears of the tranny and the seal will get loose, which will cause transmission leak and smoke coming out !! trust me i went thru this for 4 years of this and the dealer couldnt figure it out !! Trust me it is the torque converter. If you got a tranny in the past you only had 12 months waranty on it , so this one (whixch you should get ) will be coming out of pocket my friend !!get it rebuild , I just had mine done last weekend and I have no problem with it in the hot weather , today in NY is 104 degrees !! Good luck my friend !!
Could this be any indication that it might not be torq converter. The problem also occurs when I had driven the car for half hour in a very hot n humid weather. I parked the car, engine revs close to 2k. I leave it running for 7-8 minutes, I come to check it, I see the engine reving at 3k. Why would the T.C. rev up the engine slowly upto 3k while the transmission is in park? At this point, I pushed the accel. pedal n rev the engine just over 4k, let the pedal off but the engine would keep reving at 4k. Doesn't this sound like dirty TB ? I hope.
Removed my engine cover, inspecting things around. I saw the sort of pulley where the accelerater cable and the cruise control cable is attached on the throttle body was broken. I mean only the pulley (if i can call it pulley) of the cruise control was broken right where the cable end should hold in. This, in my guess, was getting blocked somehow and wouldnt let the springs push back the pulley to initial position when i let off the accel pedal. I attached the CC cable fold back on its self wit a tiewrap untill I can replace the pulley and so far there's been no idle reving problem. Now acura's not selling the pulley alone. They want me to buy the whole throttle body.
Removed my engine cover, inspecting things around. I saw the sort of pulley where the accelerater cable and the cruise control cable is attached on the throttle body was broken. I mean only the pulley (if i can call it pulley) of the cruise control was broken right where the cable end should hold in. This, in my guess, was getting blocked somehow and wouldnt let the springs push back the pulley to initial position when i let off the accel pedal. I attached the CC cable fold back on its self wit a tiewrap untill I can replace the pulley and so far there's been no idle reving problem. Now acura's not selling the pulley alone. They want me to buy the whole throttle body.
That's how it started for me !! I thought the same thing about the throttle body , the IACV , coolant flush , I did all of that and problem kept going !! Trust me it's the tourque converter . The dealer explained it to me in a way that made me understand why it happen !! Something that the other dealers couldn't explain !! Your going to need a new tranny , I know you fame out your pocket for the accord , do it for your Acura !! I don't want you to go through the same thing
this cruise control cable problem has happened many times before for others, excess tension on the tb cables. i had a 4k rpm idle and readjusted tension on the TB cables and never had this problem again. my high idle would only happen once the engine was fully warmed up also.
i am unsure about this whole tq converter idea, my high idle problem was strictly TB cable related.
i am unsure about this whole tq converter idea, my high idle problem was strictly TB cable related.
MT note on your sig
nsx-legend are not the same calipers- the nsx is aluminum and has the line fitting in a different place- more difficult to bolt to
95 legend ls-c (coupe) are cast metal units, they do bolt right up--left caliper on pass side, R on driver side-- so the bleeder nipple is at the top
Use TL brackets rotors and pads
info for others- 95 has the piston sizes closest together- best for our use on the TL
nsx-legend are not the same calipers- the nsx is aluminum and has the line fitting in a different place- more difficult to bolt to
95 legend ls-c (coupe) are cast metal units, they do bolt right up--left caliper on pass side, R on driver side-- so the bleeder nipple is at the top
Use TL brackets rotors and pads
info for others- 95 has the piston sizes closest together- best for our use on the TL
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