Alright i had a previous thread about this situation...

I thought the issue was solved but it wasn't. It got better but still has not completely gone away. The car is now driveable, before it was not.

Now there is no check engine light.

The car will only seem to hesitate when the car is already warmed up. When i wake up to go to work its fine with no issues. just as when i leave work, no issues. The only time the car seems to hesitate is when the car is fully warmed up and i turn it off for 15-20min and try to start it up again or if i leave the car in Park and let it idle for 10-20mins.

When i let it idle it seems fine until i feel it start to shake. I give it some gas and it hesitates no matter what rpm. When i leave it alone for 20min and return, it hesitates right away and wants to shut off.

The only way to make it go away is if i can quickly get it into drive and move about 20 Feet or so then it dissapears and the hesitation goes away.

Parts that have already been changed all from Acura parts dealer

-6 Coil packs
-6 spark plugs
-6 fuel injectors
-egr valve

- i know you guys talk about "seafoam" but i did the acura alternative i dont know the name but it is the intake manifold cleaner along with the fuel injection treatment. and i also manually removed the intake manifold and cleaned all ports.

What could possibly cause this to occur only when the car is warmed up and not cold?

I have read ECU possibly? but would it make sense only when the car is already warmed up??

 

could be o2 sensors messing you up but to be honest with you with these kinds of problems you have to see the data list from the pcm to see what the sensors are doing. very few scanners will show you the data list. where are you from?

 

NY

I just cleaned the IACV and now the idle is jumping up and down..(it was kinda dirty as i spun the valve around it was getting stuck because of some build up)

 

you wanna drive to jersey and ill check it out? i live in passaic

 

Thanks for the offer

But it looks like my IACV went bad, but wasn't showing any codes. Purchased a new one from the dealer. No issues since I changed the iacv, Thanks anyways

 

i know that our gen has tranny probs so i was a lil worried when in between gears around vtec or 4800-5000 rpms my 02 TL-S was sputtering or hesitating. I brought in to acura and it was my oil pressure sender. from the sense that i could put to it, the oil pressure sender is what tells the vtec that higher pressures of oil will flow to the engine to engage vtec. Iv had my TL for 2 months now and the vtec was never engaging, so now my car feels faster than ever. The part was like 75 bucks and they got me for 150 bucks labor but it was done right and runs strong

 

sounds like it could be your torque converter ... does the engine run normal???

 

huh?

 

Maybe the TPS or primary O2 sensor is flakey which would confuse the ecu. Possibly disconnect each individually to see if the problem goes away. I think the ecu should discard the sensor entirely once you unplug it.

Maybe view data w/ OBD scanner and monitor inputs.

Maybe even the MAP sensor.

 

Well wait a minute... the problem you have seems to be only in "closed loop" mode (you mentioned only when warm) . Disconnecting the O2 will surely put you in open loop mode all the time. So maybe disconnecting the O2 won't help you isolate the problem.

And disconnecting the MAP will make your car run like crap and even stall often, so that needs to be viewed w/ a scanner. Probably just unplug the TPS for starters and see what happens.

 

^ he already found the problem.. it was the AICV.. whats all this talk about sensors and maps and torque converters?

 

Oh okay didn't see it was fixed. I wouldn't think the IACV wouldn't be it, because it's online all the time not just hot or cold, and probably mostly noticable during -- IDLE. Hence the name, idle air control valve. Idle is typically irratic when that gets dirty/bad.

 

Yeah, the IAC is usually the culprit. However, if the coolant ratio or level is not correct ....idle can jump up and down erratically also. Sometimes the coolant pressure needs checked to assure there's no leak. Air trapped within the system can cause havoc also.

 

You my friend are right about the open\closed loop.

about a week later, once again with the hesitation after the car has been warmed up.

well It turned out to be a faulty Coolant Temperature Sensor. It wasn't broken thats why there was no CEL for it. it was giving a temp reading of 95 deg. and the chart on ALLDATA said the sensor should have btwn 300-450 Ohms(something around there) and the sensor was only giving about 170 ohms.

Dont remember what my mechanic said, but it was basically throwing everything off. I hope this can help out others with similar issues i have read in other threads.

a w

 

That makes a lot more sense than the IACV. Not sure about the temperature of 170 but closed loop is obtained when: both O2 are online, TPS < 80% (or so), and coolant temp is greater than X degrees. I'm not sure what temp is required for 2G TL, but you may have been stuck in open loop all this time, causing an overly rich condition which can cause hesitation.

Do you know what your mpg when things were "broke"? Open look uses a lot of gas.

 

I do all highway mon-friday to work. From a full take i used to get about 300miles

 

300 is a bit low. I'd bet ur gas milage improves by at least 40 miles/tank.