hughby05

Hello team, this is my first ever post to this forum. I was driving home a few days ago and noticed that my A/C kicked off for about 3 seconds when it finally kicked back on. As soon as it kicked back on I smelled a very weird odor that progressively got worse. As soon as I got to my off-ramp 5 miles later I noticed light smoke coming from behind the steering wheel. I immediately turned off the A/C, rolled the windows down, and turned the radio off as well. I was only 2 miles from the house so I continued home. After I parked the car for about an hour and tried to restart it, it wouldn't. The engine cranks but does not start. I have reason to believe the under dash harness is bad somewhere but here is what I've done so far.

1. had a buddy listen the fuel pump to turn on. It does not
2. Ran a multi-meter to the fuel pump power cable, no power.
3. Replaced fuel pump. The old fuel pump in fact works as I took a spare 12V battery and ran two wires to it and powered right up. But there is still no power coming through the fuel pump power cable underneath the trunk compartment.
4. Replaced the main relay and still no juice to the fuel pump.
5. Popped the left side dashboard and checked all fuses. No issues.
6. Checked under hood fuses. No issues. Tested the pump relay and pump power fuses under hood specifically with multi-meter and connectivity is still good.
7. After taking the steering wheel cover off I can't find any wires that look charred, frayed, or burned brown at all! I found two green cables that were clean cut and I spliced those together and it hasn't made a difference at all.

Being that there was smoke from behind the steering wheel, I'm afraid that its the electrical harness under the dash that needs replaced (somewhere). But I can't physically see any noticeable burn marks on any of the cables. I've also replaced the spark plugs and am going to run the spark plug/coil tester I just bought. But I still default back to the fuel pump not getting power as what needs to be solved. most forums state that the main relay needs replaced (or re-soldered) and that fixes the issue, but that is not working for me. Has anyone had this issue or know where to go from here?

ErickUa5

Welcome !
Would be really helpful if you can provide the year of your TL.
I am going to assume its a 99 thats known for ignition switch problems, replace that if the recall was never done to it. Another member reported the same issue and ended up being the ignition switch.

ErickUa5

Do you see the check engine light when the key is in position II ?

3.2TLc

Yeah, as ErickUa5 suggested......even if it's not a '99, a faulty ignition switch can create havoc with the electrical stuff which originates from that point. good place to start !!!

hughby05

It's a 2002 TL Type-S and no, I haven't switched out the ignition switch. None of the lights come on until I turn the ignition slightly past On. After that I can hear a few clicks and other bells and whistles come to life but still no power to the fuel pump. The check engine light does not come on as well.

3.2TLc

Get a downloaded copy of the Factory Service Manual. It will have electrical schematic diagrams to help determine the problem better. Is the immobilizer "green key" flashing ?

ErickUa5

Definitely replace the ignition switch, if all the fuses are ok.
Heres a DIY on it: https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-tl-1999-2003-98/diy-99-tl-ignition-switch-686000/

ErickUa5

Completely forgot about this one

hughby05

I will replace the ignition switch as recommended. Yes, the green immobilizer does come one.

ErickUa5

Does it flash while the key is in position II ? if it does it has to do with the immobilizer

01tl4tl

aftermarket part is fine for the ignition switch

If you have several keys on the ring, that contributes to the problem,,,think GM.
Smoke from steering wheel - I bet you find a burnt ign switch- take it apart and say ooops! take pic for us~

ac cutting out- was it the fan you noticed stopped working? the power connector for blower motor is weak and pulls on the wires, wire gets loose wire and burns itself out, (ck back of connector for damage) sometimes takes the blower motor resistor and fan motor with it!
25 bucks or so at acura for new connector setup -just splice in

Summer use of ac with fan on high all the time puts additional stress on the problem part

Have you ckd the relay for fuel pump by swapping with another of same color and install spare fuse of same size with spares found inside covers

01tl4tl

don't forget to look thru the diy section, 4th item down list as you enter gen2 New Official DIY,,,
that resolder trick and other electrical issues are in there

hughby05

You guys are awesome...You totally nailed it. I took the ignition switch out and immediately little shards of solder came down. I'd take a picture of the old switch but I chunked the hell out of it in the field across my house after I replaced it. Kind of like a celebration I guess after it robbed me of my whole weekend. Can't thank you guys enough. A/C is blasting again but as you stated, I won't run it on high and put extra stress on the system.

01tl4tl

Still, ck that blower connector- obvious if wires loose -unplug and inspect rear/back of it- plastic will show burn if bad
really its something we all should replace to be safe, Do it with new cabin filter install.
Then enjoy the ac on 5/High as you desire

Tip: car hot inside after parked? open rear windows 1/4 down, close fronts
AC to manual ON-outside air and Full fan speed
As you begin to drive a low pressure will be created outside the rear windows, sucking the hot higher pressure air from inside the cabin- out! forcing air to draw in from ac/cool air in front of cabin
Wont take long/few minutes before heat is extracted and you are ready to close it up and switch to recirc inside air, lower fan speed/ auto temp control

Note you cannot cool air! you can extract heat from it though~

3.2TLc

Hey Hughby05, do as 01tl4tl suggested !!! That blower motor connector melting is a common issue and is well documented as such. The "DIY" sticky has great info on replacing the connector and also the cabin filter.

So, buy the parts and take less than an hour to get the AC safely running on high and back to normal.