boostd92

Hi, I have a 2001 TL Type-S sedan. The car sat for 6 months and the battery went flat. I needed to move the car in a hurry so I used my engine starter to jump it. It has settings for 10A, 40A, and 200A. it would not start on 40A so I used 200A and it started just fine.

However, when I turned the 200A on, the driver window rolled down all the way, then back up all the way on it's own. Ever since then it doesn't work at all.

All 3 other windows go up and down with the driver's master switch and with their own switches, but the driver window does not. I can hear it make a "click" when I press the button down, or pull it up. The driver window switch worked perfectly up to this point - one touch worked fine and it didn't have any grinding/popping or any other regulator type noises.

I checked the 40A window fuse in the box under the hood, and I checked the 20A fuse in the passenger side dash fusebox. Both good, even switched them both out for known good ones and the problem still persists.

I've read about a window module needing to be "reset" in some cases but find conflicting data on the process.

Before I go spend $60 on a junkyard master switch, I thought I'd ask the pros here.

Thanks for any help!

boostd92

Update.

Found a service manual download on line and tried to power the window motor directly from the switch. Mine is actually an 02 (it has a 6 pin window connector). When I hook battery positive and negative to pins 1 and 2 per the service manual, it should roll down the window (or up if you reverse the pins). All i get is a spark as if I'm touching positive to negative. I'm not great with automotive electrical, but I'm guess this means I have a shorted out window motor. Makes sense why I get nothing but a "click" when I press the down button - I'm guessing that's the relay clicking due to an open/short.

It's strange because the window went up and down just fine prior to the jump start. Yes, 200 amps is a lot of amps but I figured most all of the systems are fused - how could a jump starter short out a window motor.... there are at least 3 fuses between the battery terminals and the motor, and none of them blew...

thoiboi

boostd92

Update #2. Power window motor *NOT* shorted.

My dumb ass was applying power and ground to the wrong side of the connector... though it seemed logical that the pigtail with the female ends that came directly from behind the door sheet metal was going to the motor (it's not, that's the harness side) and the other side that runs on the outside of the door skin, through the harness, then back behind the door skin later is the right one.

Anyway, with power and ground applied to the correct MALE ended connector, the window motor moves up and down smooth as silk.

So next per the service manual I go about testing the wiring connector going to the power window control unit. I checked power and ground on that connector and it had continuous ground but no power... ?? So I pulled out the wiring harness and it says that power comes directly from fuse 1 on the passenger side fuse box. Checked that fuse, it's good and is supplying a solid 12v. Checked the power window control module harness 12V pin again, and nope, no power. WTF, is there a break in the wire somewhere behind the dash or going from the body to the door? Ugh.. So it occurred to me that maybe the master window switch has something to do with power/grounds. I removed the switch from the door panel and plugged it in. Still no luck, BUT, now the relay does not click when I press the LF window button like it used to... what's going on here. So I took a test lead and applied direct battery voltage to the 12V input wire on the window control unit harness (while it's plugged in to the control unit), hit the window switch, and the relay (which sounds like it's in the control unit) clicks again! So now I'm nearly convinced there is a break in my power wire somewhere and I definitely don't want to deal with hunting that down.

As a last thought, I figured, maybe with all the connectors in the door panel not connected (except the window switch) the harness power goes through one of those other things (door lights, mirror and lock switches, etc). I plug everything back in and hit the window switch without my 12v direct lead plugged in and - CLICK!

THANK GOD. I did not want to have to chase a break in the body harness through the dash, etc. Apparently the 12v wire to the window control unit gets routed through one of the other connectors in the door panel before getting to the unit itself.

So it appears I have good voltage going into the power window control unit, and the window motor itself is capable of receiving power from that unit and working the window up and down, but it's just clicking, so I'm 99% sure I fried a relay in that power window control unit when it was 200A jump started.

A lot of work for ultimately a 10 minute repair once I get a good unit.

Hope that helps someone else along the way.

Iggy

Good job Troubleshooting.

boostd92

Update. Ordered a window control unit off ebay from a salvage yard - $39. Window fixed.