code p1739 3rd clutch pressure switch ?
#1
code p1739 3rd clutch pressure switch ?
i have a 2003 acura tl type s and my check engine light came on,... i scanned it and the code p1739 came up,..from reading on here i got a variety of information of people saying to do different things,... any advice would be awesome thanks.
#3
well some people acted like a transmisson flush would do the job others said that you should not do that and just try to clean the 3rd clutch pressure switch,...again ive read a varity of things but im not a transmission expert at all so i dont know.
#4
Replace the pressure switch. Apparently the diaphragms stiffen with age, and cleaning won't help. I think some of the confusion is from info carried over from the 3rd gen. side. You clean the solenoids, you can adjust 2 of them for higher shift pressure, clean the solenoid screens, replace the pressure switches, and replace the external filter if your trans if your trans has one.
#5
10th Gear
I just replaced the 3rd pressure switch today on my 03 CLS. I only drove a couple of miles after the replacement, and reset the light. I reran the scanner and the code P1739 is still there. I hope after putting more miles on it, the code will eventually go away.
#6
I just replaced the 3rd pressure switch today on my 03 CLS. I only drove a couple of miles after the replacement, and reset the light. I reran the scanner and the code P1739 is still there. I hope after putting more miles on it, the code will eventually go away.
#7
10th Gear
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#8
Well, after resetting the CEL by pulling the #13 fuse on the passenger side panel. I drove about 20 miles today, and so far it looks like that might have fixed the problem. I got the OEM replacement part (28600-P7Z-003) on eBay. It cost me $35 including shipping and about 15 min of my time. I didn't even have to jack up the car. I just turned the wheel all the way to the left. You can pretty much reach the sensor from there.
#9
Well, after resetting the CEL by pulling the #13 fuse on the passenger side panel. I drove about 20 miles today, and so far it looks like that might have fixed the problem. I got the OEM replacement part (28600-P7Z-003) on eBay. It cost me $35 including shipping and about 15 min of my time. I didn't even have to jack up the car. I just turned the wheel all the way to the left. You can pretty much reach the sensor from there.
#12
what info? how to order or how to replace?
#13
error code--P1739--which part to replace?
Ok, I'm confused...
My 99 TL's showing error code P1739, too. But when I look at the picture of the location referenced for part, 28600-P7Z-003, it doesn't match the parts diagram. The part referenced in the underside of the car (in the circle), looks like 28200-P0Z-003, a solenoid assembly. The oil pressure switch, 28600-P7Z-003, is #14 in this diagram:
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/find-pa...20-%20SOLENOID
So which part should I replace for error code P1739:
28600-P7Z-003 Oil pressure switch
OR
28200-P0Z-003 SOLENOID ASSY
Thanks!
My 99 TL's showing error code P1739, too. But when I look at the picture of the location referenced for part, 28600-P7Z-003, it doesn't match the parts diagram. The part referenced in the underside of the car (in the circle), looks like 28200-P0Z-003, a solenoid assembly. The oil pressure switch, 28600-P7Z-003, is #14 in this diagram:
http://www.oemacuraparts.com/find-pa...20-%20SOLENOID
So which part should I replace for error code P1739:
28600-P7Z-003 Oil pressure switch
OR
28200-P0Z-003 SOLENOID ASSY
Thanks!
#14
Senior Moderator
The part circled is the oil pressure switch.
#18
for other people whoever might need to do.
The 2nd OIL PRESSURE SWITCH is on top of transmission body when look down from throttle cable tension but one of PVC hose( about 1" in diameter) is blocking your sight so move your head a little toward windshield you will find it on tranny.
swapping is unplug by pulling the one like electrical plug and unscrew pressure switch and put the new one back and plug the thing back. Tight space will give you hard time but you will make it a way by bending the hose memtioned above, a little to side.
During the swapping, you will see a bit of tran fluid leak only inside of switch but won't flood from tranny so don't panic.
After swapped, 2nd gear shift much smoother and faster than before. Long before I got CEL on, I noticed 2nd gear shift taking like forever. Hope this new switch will give longevity my tranny to be last. I've seen in 3g tl section, some of members changed their 2nd & 3rd oil pressure switch on purpose to prevent tranny failure but never seen discussion in 2g.
Part# 28600-P7Z-003
Got it from Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/170717702224...84.m1423.l2649
#19
Thanks for the info! I didn't even know our 2-gen cars had a 2nd gear pressure switch. I was under the impression that only 3rd and 4th gears use pressure switches, while the rest use solenoids.
#20
Yeah, this is some good info to know when the time comes......as it inevitably always does.
If it can break, it will and our trannys prove that theory.....time and time over, again and again !
If it can break, it will and our trannys prove that theory.....time and time over, again and again !
#21
dont mean to get off course but does anyone have some pics of all 3 tranny mounts or is there just two,and has anyone replaced and have a diy with pics?...just got xlr8 motor mounts done cause i couldnt do it because of back surgery,but would like to save money and do the tranny mounts myself,pics of locations of mounts would be helpful to,and im slammed so dont know if that makes a diff
#22
??? ... tranny mounts ... ???
Hey Mrbustrbrown, to answer your question concerning tranny mounts, there are two of them, relatively inexpensive and not a difficult DIY.
Good luck with the back, how's the XLR8's working out ?
PS: Posting a new thread would result in better results pertaining to your specific question.
#23
xlr8 so far so good....need to be broke in but i still have what feels like a tranny mount broke...feels like a bouncing from 2 to 3 gear....the xlr8 do seem to let me feel the engine vibrate at idle...itll take some getting used to,but knowing that it will prolly never need another mount replacment,seems to b a fair trade....any pics on the tranny mounts install or uninstall would b nice to have,never done tranny mounts b4 and going n2 it blind may make it not so easy for me,id rather know going n2 it so that if my back starts hurting ill know if i can finish...
#24
I posted a diy for the rear mount. Do a search for "diy rear engine mount"
#26
I just replaced the tranny fluid for the second time on my 3.2 TL with the DW-1 ATF. The tranny was still taking a long time to shift into gear from park to Drive or Reverse, so I replaced the filter as well. Filter didn't look too bad, but when I took it for a test run and came to a stop, the car did not want to move. When it did, the tranny didn't want to up shift. Before changing the fluid, the tranny worked fine. Any help would be greatly appreciated
#27
10th Gear
I just stumble across this youtube video of the switch being replaced. Just thought this might help.
Last edited by thatmrb@yahoo.com; 03-19-2013 at 10:30 PM.
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3.2TLc (03-20-2013)
#28
pressure switch...........
Well, after resetting the CEL by pulling the #13 fuse on the passenger side panel. I drove about 20 miles today, and so far it looks like that might have fixed the problem. I got the OEM replacement part (28600-P7Z-003) on eBay. It cost me $35 including shipping and about 15 min of my time. I didn't even have to jack up the car. I just turned the wheel all the way to the left. You can pretty much reach the sensor from there.
Is your tranny still operating ok ? Seems like an ez enuff thing to try !
The following users liked this post:
3.2TLc (03-20-2013)
#33
Well, after resetting the CEL by pulling the #13 fuse on the passenger side panel. I drove about 20 miles today, and so far it looks like that might have fixed the problem. I got the OEM replacement part (28600-P7Z-003) on eBay. It cost me $35 including shipping and about 15 min of my time. I didn't even have to jack up the car. I just turned the wheel all the way to the left. You can pretty much reach the sensor from there.
Thanks.
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