My car has been running rough lately (sputtering when I give it gas at high mileage) and last night when I started it it shut right off and wouldn't idle unless I gave it gas.

I took it to my local mechanic and they called me and said it had a "few bad sensors". They couldn't let me know yet which ones they were yet, and said it would be $450 to replace them all with new, $300 to replace them with a mix of used and new, and $100 to clean them. Any guesses what sensor(s) they are talking about before tomorrow when I talk to them?

 

Do you have a check engine light on?

Without a code its just speculation, but it may be a TPS sensor.

 

If you have check engine lights, get the codes read at one of the chain auto shops for free. Let us know what they are.

IMO, a "few bad sensors" doesn't sound like honest business at all.

I wouldn't pay them a dime until you know exactly what's wrong with the car.

 

 

i have the same thing going on i got mine tested and i had 6 cylinder misfires, idle air control valve sensor and a low circuit failure cant remember what the codes were but it could be the same.

 

I have the same problem and the check engine light is not on.
When I give it gas it goes. The tl has over 230,000 miles and the plugs were changed last year.

 

have the codes ckd at local parts store-report any found back here
dont need cel on to get a code

what plugs did you use? thats important,
if anything but ngk or denso- pull them out today and install the correct plugs
ngk Iridium, iridiuim IX or platinum (stock)

denso brand cost more and last fewer miles, so most stay on ngk and upgrade to iridium-same as used in gen3

when was the last time you did a fuel injector cleaning and engine cleaning service --seafoam does both and is so easy even pzhoward (a ziner girl) can do it~

 

ever adjust the valves?, they are due at each 105kmiles servicve with timing belt and water pump etc

 

what about cleaning the egr ports- done that?

 

Ramdom advise can be giving but, their is no need.
If there's sensors that are bad there will be codes.
Get the codes checked.
Get codes,come back here or do some home work.
If he's throwing prices without telling you what is wrong,either he does not know or he about to rape your pockets for what he can.
Not saying this is your case but,it would be pretty shitty if he try's to charge you $450 to possible clean TB,manifold or get your cables tightened.
tps sensor would be a cheap fix too.
possibly a clogged fuel pump sock,cheap fix too.
cat might be a little high.
Get the codes first.
Also you might have better results with a shop if you see a couple import cars there.

 

why are you using this shop?, replace them all? please dumb ass at work here, and a possible fool be hooked and relled in.

please do your self a favor and get a new mechanic that won't rip you off and can pin point what sensor is bad.


well you see here one of the sensors is bad, I don't know which one it is but I can replace them all for 450 bucks and that should take care of the problem,,,, doesn't that sound bright? NOT

 

thats the commission based guys way of doing things!
Oh you have multiple misfire codes - we better replace all 6 coils- that will fix it
hmm , maybe it needs new plugs too
now it needs our xxx service because that other stuff caused...

codes are CLUES not diagnosis anyway- never go buy parts based soley on a code
Unless you like the dealer approach to maitenance~

 

There are no computer codes. There is no check engine light.

The red top optima battery was replaced with another new one.
Seamfoam was poured into the gas tank.
The plugs were changed last year with NGK Iridiums.

The EGR ports were cleaned 6 months ago.


The engine starts when you give it a little gas.
However the idle wont last unless you give it gas and it will stall.

The TCS light and air bag light stay on for 5 seconds and go off.

Any suggestions?
thnx in advance

 

The air filter is also new.

The prior post should be the TCS and ABS lift stay on and then go off after about 5 seconds.

I am assuming the valves were adjusted by the dealer during the water pump and timing belt change at 110,000miles.
The vehicle now has 220,000 miles.

 

In my opinion, poor valve clearance will not cause this. Given that there's no codes, it sounds like the engine is being fuel starved. You might want to check to see if you have fuel leaking around the middle of the car, where the lines are held in a plastic tray underneath the car. Given the high mileage, I might also suggest the fuel filter (I'm not even sure it even has one) as clogging would also cause this.

Sure sounds like there's and issue with fuel flow.

 

Your Vehicle: 2003 Acura 3.2CL V6-3.2L SOHC


Vehicle » Engine, Cooling and Exhaust » Engine » Idle Speed » Technical Service Bulletins » Engine Controls - Idle Speed Inspection Notes



Engine Controls - Idle Speed Inspection


03-006

March 17, 2003




* Applies To*

Inspecting Idle Speed With the PGM Tester or Honda Diagnostic System (Supersedes 03-006, dated March 3, 2003)

Updated information is shown by asterisks and black bars.

BACKGROUND

The ECM/PCM controls the vehicle's idle speed with the idle air control (IAC) valve. The IAC valve and the air bleed screw (idle adjusting screw) work together to allow the proper amount of air into the intake manifold when the throttle plate is closed (the accelerator pedal is released).

The ECM/PCM "learns" to work the IAC valve based on the total amount of air entering the intake manifold. Air can enter the intake manifold from several sources, including the air bleed screw, but only the air bleed screw is adjustable. If any changes are made that alter this airflow, specifically with the air bleed screw, the ECM/PCM must learn new idle parameters.

When the air bleed screw is properly set, the ECM/PCM controls the engine's idle speed seamlessly. But when the air bleed screw is not properly set, either of these symptoms may be present:

^ Idle speed dips and then quickly recovers.

^ Engine stalls intermittently when it is just "off-idle." Here are the criteria for this symptom:

- The accelerator pedal is released but the driver's right foot rests over the pedal, causing just enough pressure for the ECM/PCM to detect an input, yet there is little of no throttle plate opening (the throttle plate is either not allowing any airflow or it is opened so slightly that more air supply is needed).

- The engine speed is about 1,250 rpm or less.

- The lockup clutch (A/T models) or the clutch (M/T models) is disengaged.

- All during this time, the driver's foot does not move and stays resting over the accelerator pedal.

- The air bleed screw is not set properly and does not allow enough airflow.

- The amount of "air leakage" into the intake manifold is very low. (The normal amount of air let into the intake manifold by sources other than the IAC valve, the air bleed screw, and normal operation of the throttle body can vary slightly from vehicle to vehicle.)


NOTE: "Air leakage" cannot be easily checked. If the first four criteria are met when the vehicle stalls, you can assume the last two criteria are met as well.

CORRECTIVE ACTION

L4 Models: Inspect the idle speed with the PGM Tester or Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) (see INSPECTION PROCEDURE A: L4 MODELS).

V6 Models: Inspect the idle speed with the PGM Tester or HDS. Clean out the throttle body if needed (see INSPECTION PROCEDURE B: V6 MODELS).

PARTS INFORMATION

Throttle Body Gasket (use only if needed): Refer to the parts catalog.




* TOOL INFORMATION*




REQUIRED MATERIALS

WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION

In warranty:
The normal warranty applies.

Inspect Idle Speed (L4 and V6 Models)

Operation Number: 120301

Flat Rate Time: 0.6 hour

Failed Part: P/N 16400-PAA-A61

Defect Code: 093

Contention Code: C05

Skill Level: Repair Technician
Clean Throttle Body (V6 Models Only)

Operation Number: 216001

Flat Rate Time: 0.6 hour

Failed Part: P/N 16400-PAA-A61

Defect Code: 030

Contention Code: B99

Skill Level: Repair Technician
Warranty claims for these labor operations must be submitted separately. Do not combine them on the same claim.

Out of warranty:
Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.

INSPECTION PROCEDURE A: L4 MODELS

1. Access the air bleed screw on the throttle body.

2. Record the current setting of the screw:

^ Turn the screw clockwise, and count the number of turns (both full and partial) it takes to fully seat the screw.

^ Turn the screw counterclockwise back to its original setting.

^ Subtract the number of clockwise turns it took to seat the screw from 3-1/2. Record that number. Example: If it took two full turns to seat the screw, subtracting 3-1/2 from that gives you 1-1/2.


3. Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fan cycles twice).

4. Turn off all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.). Center the steering wheel so there is no power steering load.

5. Connect the PGM Tester or HDS to the 16P data link connector (DLC).

6. Turn on the PGM Tester or HDS. Enter the VIN and odometer reading.

7. Follow the screen prompts on the PGM Tester or HDS to get to DATA LIST. Scroll down the list to IAC.

8. While watching the IAC counts on the PGM Tester or HDS, slowly turn the air bleed screw (either counterclockwise or clockwise) until the IAC count reaches 1 or you have turned the screw counterclockwise a total of 3-1/2 turns. (Count the number of counterclockwise turns you have made, and add that number to the screw setting you recorded in step 2.)

^ If you see an IAC count of 1 turn the screw clockwise 1/2 turn, and then go to step 9.

^ If you do not see an IAC count off, and you have turned the screw counterclockwise a total of 3-1/2 turns, leave the screw set where it is. Go to step 9. You should never set the air bleed screw counterclockwise more than 3-1/2 turns from its seated position. If you set the screw further; it could work itself out of the throttle body over time.


9. Let the engine idle for 10 minutes to allow the ECM/PCM to learn the new idle parameters.

10. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). Turn off and disconnect the PGM Tester or HDS.


INSPECTION PROCEDURE B: V6 MODELS

1. Access the air bleed screw on the throttle body.

2. Record the current setting of the screw:

^ Turn the screw clockwise, and count the number of turns (both full and partial) it takes to fully seat the screw.

^ Turn the screw counterclockwise back to its original setting.

^ Subtract the number of clockwise turns it took to seat the screw from 3-1/2. Record that number. Example: If it took two full turns to seat the screw, subtracting 3-1/2 from that gives you 1-1/2.


3. Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature (the cooling fan cycles twice).

4. Turn off all electrical items (A/C, audio unit, defogger, lights, etc.). Center the steering wheel so there is no power steering load.

5. Connect the PGM Tester or HDS to the 16P data link connector (DLC).

6. Turn on the PGM Tester or HDS. Enter the VIN and odometer reading.

7. Follow the screen prompts on the PGM Tester or HDS to get to DATA LIST. Scroll down the list to IAC.

8. While watching the IAC counts on the PGM Tester or HDS, slowly turn the air bleed screw (either counterclockwise or clockwise) until the IAC count reaches 7 or you have turned the screw counterclockwise a total of 3-1/2 turns. (Count the number of counterclockwise turns you have made, and add that number to the screw setting you recorded in step 2.)

^ If you see an IAC count of 7, turn the screw clockwise 1/2 turn, and then go to step 14.

^ If you do not see an IAC count of 7, and you have turned the screw counterclockwise a total of 3-1/2 turns, leave the screw set where it is. Go to step 9. You should never set the air bleed screw counterclockwise more than 3-1/2 turns from its seated position. If you set the screw further, it could work itself out of the throttle body over time.


9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). Remove the throttle body (see the Fuel and Emissions section of the appropriate service manual).

10. Open the throttle. Spray carburetor cleaner or throttle plate and induction cleaner into the throttle body to clean out any contaminants. Make sure you spray the cleaner through the back of the throttle body, not the front, to avoid damaging the IAC valve.

11. Inspect the throttle body gasket, and replace it if needed. Reinstall the throttle body, making sure all cables are properly adjusted, the accelerator pedal works properly, and all hoses and cables are correctly routed.

12. Start the engine, and let it warm up to its normal operating temperature. Make sure all electrical items are turned off and the steering wheel is centered.

13. While watching the PGM Tester or HDS, slowly turn the air bleed screw until the IAC count reaches 7 or you have turned the screw counterclockwise a total of 3-1/2 turns.

^ If you see an IAC count of 7, turn the screw clockwise 1/2 turn, and then go to step 14.

^ If you do not see an IAC count of 7, leave the screw set at 3-1/2 turns. Go to step 14. You should never set the air bleed screw counterclockwise more than 3-1/2 turns from its seated position. If you set the screw further, it could work itself out of the throttle body over time.


14. Let the engine idle for 10 minutes to allow the ECM/PCM to learn the new idle parameters.

15. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). Turn off and disconnect the PGM Tester or HDS.





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Was the batter just replaced when this happened?

 

No, the battery was replaced after the problem.

 

Did the seafoam in the engine manifold, got some smoke. It still wont hold idle.
Funny thing is that with the vaccuum line disconnected it wont stall.

Any suggestions?

 

Did a 2nd pass with Seafoam in the intake and it WORKS!!!

 

Sweeeeetttttt

 

congrats Pete
It wont stall with just the master vac line off- it will run bad but a thumb over the vac port solves that as needed
the intake of too much seafoam at once- exceeding 50/50 ratio to gas.. and the engine will stall

be aware the dealer does not usually do the valve adjustment with the 105/tbelt wp service..its listed in the book 'as needed' but the only way to know is to get in there and ck each one with a feeler guage- adjusting the ones out of spec,,even a little bit out causes fuel injected cars to run less than perfect

its a few hundred $$ extra and service writers, many not being techs, dont explain its importance- many customers turn it down,,

with you at 220 Im guessing you have or are close to doing the tbelt water pump again, so plan on valve adjustment with that
Clean the manifold egr ports while its all apart, thats ready for cleaning every 75kmiles

some seafoam in the oil before valve adjust will make that more accurate in its setting